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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Geneva, Switzerland (originally founded in London)

Rolex

Partially verified

Water-resistant, self-winding and chronometer-certified wristwatches

History

Beginning as a London importer of Swiss movements cased for the British market, the firm moved to Geneva after the First World War and concentrated on certified precision, sealed cases and self-winding, producing the Oyster case and the Perpetual rotor mechanism.

Founded in 1905 in London as Wilsdorf & Davis by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis, the company initially imported Swiss movements for the British market. Following World War I, the firm moved its operations to Geneva, Switzerland, to navigate economic instability and import tax pressures. The company became known as Montres Rolex SA in 1920 and has been owned by the private Hans Wilsdorf Foundation since 1960.

Throughout the 20th century, the brand gained prominence for its water-resistant Oyster case and self-winding Perpetual rotor. In 2004, the firm achieved greater vertical integration by merging its Geneva operations with the long-time movement manufacturer Rolex Biel.

The extended history summarises the open references listed under Sources; each statement was checked against the cited passage. Confirm key dates in period documents before relying on them.

Timeline

Rolex's recorded dates, dated events from this profile and its sources, and dated pieces and sales from the object catalogue. Dates are as each record gives them.

  1. 1905 · Career

    Founded in 1905 in London as Wilsdorf & Davis by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis, the company initially imported Swiss movements for the British market.

    Profile text · see Sources

  2. circa 1910 · Catalogued piece

    Rolex full hunter pocket watch with box, c. 1910

    Provenance: Antiques Boutique

  3. 1920 · Career

    The company became known as Montres Rolex SA in 1920 and has been owned by the private Hans Wilsdorf Foundation since 1960.

    Profile text · see Sources

  4. circa 1923 · Catalogued piece

    Rolex double hunter pocket watch

    Provenance: Musée international d'horlogerie

  5. 1926 · Career

    The Oyster case was introduced in 1926 as a hermetically sealed, water-resistant wristwatch housing.

    Profile text · see Sources

  6. circa 1930 · Catalogued piece

    Rolex 'Doctor's Chronograph' Pocket Watch, Ref. 6372

    Provenance: Antiquorum

  7. 1931 · Career

    The Perpetual rotor, patented in 1931, provided a practical solution for automatic self-winding wristwatches.

    Profile text · see Sources

  8. 1940s · Catalogued piece

    Rolex 'Cioccolatone' Reference 4645, 'Perpetual, Chronometer Officially Certified'

    Provenance: Antiquorum

  9. circa 1950s · Catalogued piece

    Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 6542

    Provenance: Oliver & Clarke

  10. 1960 · Career

    Since 1960, the company has been owned and controlled by the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, a private family trust.

    Profile text · see Sources

  11. Circa 1960 · Catalogued piece

    Rolex Oyster Chronograph 'Pre-Daytona', Ref: 6234

    Provenance: Bonhams

  12. Made in January 1972 · Catalogued piece

    Rolex Comex Submariner Ref: 5514/5513 Automatic Diver's Wristwatch

    Provenance: Bonhams

Current watchmaking & later fate

  • Since 1960, the company has been owned and controlled by the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, a private family trust.
  • The brand produces mechanical wristwatches and continues to expand its physical presence, including the 2024 construction of a new affiliate in New York City.

As stated in the references listed under Sources, retrieved 2026-10-27. Ownership and collections change; check the maker's own announcements for the latest position.

Key models

Rolex Oyster
Introduced in 1926, this model was the first Rolex wristwatch designed to be waterproof and dustproof.
Oyster Perpetual
This watch incorporated a self-winding mechanism patented by Rolex in 1931 called a Perpetual rotor.
Submariner
Launched in 1953, the Submariner was the brand's first professional diver's watch rated for depths of 100 meters.

Major innovations

  • Screw-down Oyster case for water resistance
  • Perpetual self-winding rotor with bidirectional winding in series production
  • The Oyster case was introduced in 1926 as a hermetically sealed, water-resistant wristwatch housing.
  • The Perpetual rotor, patented in 1931, provided a practical solution for automatic self-winding wristwatches.
  • Cerachrom, a patented ceramic material, was created by the company for use in scratch-resistant bezels.

Known markings

  • 'Rolex' on dial and movement
  • Reference number between the lugs on older cases
  • Case-maker marks inside the back
  • The 'Rolex' trademark was registered in 1908.
  • Early timepieces from the company were hallmarked with 'W&D' inside the caseback.

Serial numbers

Case serial and reference numbers are the primary identifiers; published approximate serial-to-year ranges are collector-compiled rather than published by the manufacturer.

Collecting significance

One of the most heavily counterfeited and heavily 'improved' names in the field; dial, hands, bezel and movement must each be assessed for period correctness.

Identification and dating notes

  • Watches marked Wilsdorf & Davis date from the company's early period in London prior to the full adoption of the Rolex brand name.
  • The name change to Montres Rolex SA in 1920 reflects the firm's formal establishment in Geneva.

In the object catalogue

221 catalogued objects are recorded under Rolex. Attributions are as given by each source and are not independent authentication.

  • Rolex Comex Submariner Ref: 5514/5513 diver's wristwatch on an Oyster bracelet
  • Rolex Anti-Magnetic Oyster Chronograph 'Pre-Daytona' Ref. 6234 on a black strap
  • Rolex watch crystal packaging labeled B25-129-5-J1 with handwritten notation
  • Front view of the Rolex Cellini reference 3747 showing the silver soleil dial, applied stick markers, and square 18k white gold case.
  • Rolex Datejust 1601/3 featuring a champagne linen dial and Jubilee bracelet.
  • Front view of the Rolex Datejust 16030, showing the silver soleil dial and Jubilee bracelet.
Show 209 more

Browse all 221 in the object catalogue

Provenance

Where the 221 catalogued pieces by Rolex were recorded, with the collectors, owners and sales their records name.

Provenance map

Each piece is linked to the museum, auction house or dealer whose record it comes from, and to any other house or collection its own provenance names. Select a name to see its pieces.

Museums · 3 pieces

Auction houses · 65 pieces

Dealers & other listings · 153 pieces

Bulang & Sons

Dealer · 39 pieces

  • Rolex Cellini reference 3747 in 18k white goldHand-wound wristwatch · 1968 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

    Open the object record

  • Rolex Chronograph ref. 4500 with Pulsations DialChronograph · 1946 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 16520Chronograph · 1996 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 6263Chronograph · 1980 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Reference 16520Chronograph · 1995 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex Datejust 1601 Steel and Rose Gold Black Sigma DialAutomatic wristwatch · 1973 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex Datejust 1601 Tiffany & Co. signed Silver Sigma DialAutomatic wristwatch · 1974 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex Datejust 1601 Vertical Brush Silver DialAutomatic wristwatch · 1966 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex Datejust 1601/3Automatic wristwatch · 1974 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex Datejust 1601/3 Blue Sigma DialAutomatic wristwatch · 1977 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex Datejust 16030 Silver DialAutomatic wristwatch · 1987 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex Datejust 16030 with Aubergine DialAutomatic wristwatch · circa 1982 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

    Open the object record

  • Rolex Datejust Ovettone Reference 6305Automatic wristwatch · circa 1955 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex Datejust Ref. 1603Automatic wristwatch · 1975 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex Datejust ref. 16030Calendar & moon-phase watch · 1981 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex Datejust reference 1601 with Singer Block Markers dialAutomatic wristwatch · 1968 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex Datejust Reference 16030Automatic wristwatch · circa 1986 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex Datejust reference 6605Automatic wristwatch · 1959 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex Datejust Reference 6605Automatic wristwatch · 1958 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

    Open the object record

  • Rolex Day-Date 1803Calendar & moon-phase watch · 1977 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

    Open the object record

  • Rolex Day-Date 1803 Orange Stella DialCalendar & moon-phase watch · 1973 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex Day-Date 18238 with 'Pleiades' Diamond DialCalendar & moon-phase watch · 1995 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex Day-Date Reference 1803Calendar & moon-phase watch · 1970 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex Day-Date Reference 1803Automatic wristwatch · 1972 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex Day-Date Reference 18078 with Green Khanjar EmblemCalendar & moon-phase watch · 1980 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

    Open the object record

  • Rolex GMT-Master II 16710GMT & world-time watch · 1995 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

    Open the object record

  • Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 1675 Mk1 'Long E'GMT & world-time watch · 1971 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex GMT-Master Reference 1675 with Gilt DialGMT & world-time watch · circa 1965 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex GMT-Master Reference 1675/8 with Khanjar DialGMT & world-time watch · 1974 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex Oyster Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6265Chronograph · 1975 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Ref. 1501Calendar & moon-phase watch · circa 1963 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex Oyster Perpetual Reference 1002Automatic wristwatch · 1961 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

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  • Rolex Oyster reference 6222 wristwatchHand-wound wristwatch · circa 1953 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

    Open the object record

  • Rolex Oysterdate Reference 6694Hand-wound wristwatch · circa 1973 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

    Open the object record

  • Rolex Ref. 3608 Pocket/Pendant WatchEnamel, form & pendant watch · 1967 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

    Open the object record

  • Rolex Submariner Date Reference 1680Diver's watch · 1977 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

    Open the object record

  • Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513 'Lollipop'Diver's watch · 1980 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

    Open the object record

  • Rolex Submariner reference 5513Diver's watch · 1978 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

    Open the object record

  • Rolex Submariner Reference 5513 Meters FirstDiver's watch · 1967 · Record source

    The record names no sale, lot or earlier owner.

    Open the object record

Collectors, owners and donors

Auction history

Show 55 more
HouseSale & lotObject
Luxe Auctioneerslot 163Rolex Buckley Datejust Dial
Auktionen Dr. Crottlot 361Rolex Cellini King Midas Wristwatch
Farber Auctioneers—Rolex Cellini wristwatch movement and dial, model 1601
Bonhamslot 202Rolex Comex Submariner Ref: 5514/5513 Automatic Diver's Wristwatch
Christie'slot 109Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 'Paul Newman Panda' Ref. 6263
Christie'slot 7Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 16519 with sodalite and diamond-set dial
Sotheby's—Rolex Cosmograph Daytona reference 6264
A.H. Wilkens Auctions & Appraisals Inc.lot 1055Rolex Datejust 36 Reference 16014 Custom-Modified Wristwatch
Setdart Auction Houselot 5Rolex Datejust Wristwatch
Artcuriallot 45Rolex Day-Date "The Eastern Arabic" Reference 6613B
Hindmanlot 32Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18038 in 18K Yellow Gold with Tiger's Eye Dial
Setdart Auction Houselot 89Rolex Daytona Cosmograph, ref. 116520
Monaco Legend Grouplot 206855702Rolex Daytona reference 6239
Bidsquare (auction platform)lot 368Rolex GMT-Master 'Pepsi' wristwatch, Ref. 16710
Antiquorumlot 60Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 116758
Antiquorumlot 97Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 16710
Monaco Legend Grouplot 206855833Rolex GMT-Master reference 6542
Christie'slot 170Rolex Ladies’ 18k Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback ‘Serpico y Laino’, Ref. 5003
Auktionen Dr. Crottlot 206730329Rolex Lady Date Wristwatch, circa 1976
Setdart Auction Houselot 5Rolex Lady Oyster Perpetual Datejust wristwatch
Bonhamslot 251Rolex Military Submariner Ref: 5513
Bellmanslot 2380Rolex Oyster 9ct gold octagonal cased lady's wristwatch
Bonhamslot 14Rolex Oyster Chronograph 'Pre-Daytona', Ref: 6234
Antiquorumlot 254Rolex Oyster Chronograph Antimagnetic Ref. 6234
Invaluable (auction platform)lot 461Rolex Oyster Chronograph Monoblocco Antimagnetic reference 4500
Phillipslot 878Rolex Oyster Cosmograph 'Oman', Reference 6265
Antiquorumlot 328-88Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 116520
Clarke Auction Gallery, Inc.lot 640Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Ref. 1500 Wristwatch
the-saleroom (auction platform)lot 405Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Ref. 79240
Antiquorumlot 89Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Sea-Dweller Ref. 16600
Antiquorumlot 166Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Submariner Ref. 1680
Antiquorumlot 288Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Yacht-Master Reference 16622
Lyon & Turnbulllot 808Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust Ref. 116333 with Custom Stone Setting
Antiquorumlot 321Rolex Oyster Perpetual DateJust, Ref. 6605
Antiquorumlot 203Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date Reference 18956 BR
Antiquorumlot 87Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master Ref. 1675
Antiquorumlot 234Rolex Oyster Perpetual Milgauss Ref. 116400 GV
Phillipslot 120Rolex Oyster Perpetual Reference 6100 “La Caravelle” Wristwatch
Hindmanlot 21Rolex Oyster Perpetual Reference 6564 Wristwatch
Bonhamslot 192Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner Chronometer, Ref. 5512
Antiquorumlot 594Rolex Oysterdate Precision Reference 6694
Christie'slot 1Rolex Quartz Wall Clock
Hindmanlot 57Rolex Ref. 116233 'Datejust' Watch
Christie'slot 239Rolex Ref. 15210 Date Stainless Steel Wristwatch
Sotheby'slot 8703Rolex Reference 455 Gilt Brass Desk Clock with Date
Christie'slot 99Rolex Reference 6107 Sector Dial Wristwatch
Antiquorumlot 275Rolex Reference 8171 Triple Calendar Moonphase Wristwatch
Sotheby'slot 47Rolex Sea-Dweller 'Tropical', Reference 1665
Antiquorumlot 298Rolex Sea-Dweller Ref. 16660 'Militarized DLC'
Antiquorumlot 160Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060
Antiquorumlot 280Rolex Submariner Reference 116610LV
AntiquorumSeptember 2004 · lot 407Rolex Submariner Reference 16610LV
Hess Fine Auctionslot 11040Rolex Submariner reference 1680 wristwatch
Hindmanlot 84Rolex, Ref. 1680/8, 18K Yellow Gold 'Submariner' Watch
Freeman'slot 100Rolex, Ref. 5514 Stainless Steel 'COMEX Submariner' Watch

Each line is copied from the object's source record and is not independently verified. Holders are as recorded when the piece was catalogued: museum objects may not be on display, and sold lots have since changed hands.

Photographs

Antique Rolex Gold Plated Pocket Watch – C1920s
Antique Rolex Gold Plated Pocket Watch – C1920s — WatchMuseum.org, © WatchMuseum.org, used with permission. WatchMuseum.org catalogue record
Antique Rolex Gold Plated Pocket Watch – C1920s
Antique Rolex Gold Plated Pocket Watch – C1920s — WatchMuseum.org, © WatchMuseum.org, used with permission. WatchMuseum.org catalogue record
Antique Rolex Gold Plated Pocket Watch – C1920s
Antique Rolex Gold Plated Pocket Watch – C1920s — WatchMuseum.org, © WatchMuseum.org, used with permission. WatchMuseum.org catalogue record
Antique Rolex Gold Plated Pocket Watch – C1920s
Antique Rolex Gold Plated Pocket Watch – C1920s — WatchMuseum.org, © WatchMuseum.org, used with permission. WatchMuseum.org catalogue record
Rolex mural watch, Dubai airport
Rolex mural watch, Dubai airport — Yann Forget, CC BY-SA 4.0. Wikimedia Commons file page
Rolex Submariner watch 16613
Rolex Submariner watch 16613 — User:Eternalsleeper, Public domain. Wikimedia Commons file page
Rolex 2019
Rolex 2019 — Madrox, CC BY-SA 4.0. Wikimedia Commons file page
The Rolex 3255 Movement: Engineering Excellence in Horology ...
The Rolex 3255 Movement: Engineering Excellence in Horology ... — echappemetre.com, Rights unverified — web image search result, review pending. Web page (echappemetre.com)
Bonhams : A Rolex openfaced pocket watch
Bonhams : A Rolex openfaced pocket watch — bonhams.com, Rights unverified — web image search result, review pending. Web page (bonhams.com)

Photographs are illustrative examples of the type, not necessarily the exact object described. Verify details against the source file page.

Sources & references

  1. Rolex, Wikipedia (English), retrieved 2026-10-27 (text CC BY-SA 4.0)
  2. Rolex GMT Master II, Wikipedia (English), retrieved 2026-10-27 (text CC BY-SA 4.0)
  3. Rolex, Wikipedia (German), retrieved 2026-10-27 (text CC BY-SA 4.0)
  4. Rolex Submariner, Wikipedia (German), retrieved 2026-10-27 (text CC BY-SA 4.0)
  5. Rolex, Wikipedia (French), retrieved 2026-10-27 (text CC BY-SA 4.0)
  6. Hans Wilsdorf, Wikipedia (French), retrieved 2026-10-27 (text CC BY-SA 4.0)
  7. Manufacturer technical documentation for current calibres
  8. Serial-to-date tables for vintage references are community-compiled and should be treated as approximate.

Where sources disagree, the disagreement is stated rather than resolved silently.