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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Self-winding wristwatch with date

Rolex Datejust 1601/3

Partially verified

This Rolex Datejust, reference 1601/3, is a self-winding wristwatch featuring a 36 mm case manufactured in Rolesor, a combination of stainless steel and 18k yellow gold. The watch is equipped with a fluted yellow gold bezel and a champagne-coloured linen-textured dial. The dial includes black-topped hour markers and a date display positioned at three o'clock, magnified by a cyclops lens on the crystal. It is powered by a slow-setting self-winding movement. The timepiece is presented on a folded-link Jubilee bracelet, reference 6252H, with 455 end links. The manufacturer dates the serial number 347xxxx to 1974. The auction description reports that the movement has been fully serviced by their watchmaker. The dial bears the text 'T SWISS T' at the bottom, indicating the presence of luminous material.

Rolex Datejust 1601/3 featuring a champagne linen dial and Jubilee bracelet.
Rolex Datejust 1601/3 featuring a champagne linen dial and Jubilee bracelet. — Bulang & Sons. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
www.bulangandsons.com
Category
Wristwatch · Self-winding wristwatch with date
Maker / attribution
Rolex
Reference
1601/3
Catalogue / lot identifier
Source URL identifies the listing
Source-reported date
1974
Source-reported place
Not established
Source-reported serial
347xxxx

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Bracelet

The watch is housed in a 36 mm Oyster case constructed from Rolesor, the Rolex term for a combination of stainless steel and 18k yellow gold. The case features a yellow gold fluted bezel, which provides a contrast to the steel mid-case and lugs. The screw-down crown is situated on the right side of the case.

The watch is secured to the wrist via a folded-link Jubilee bracelet, identified as reference 6252H, which incorporates 455 end links. The bracelet construction utilizes both stainless steel and yellow gold links, consistent with the Rolesor configuration of the watch head.

Evidence for this section
  • “36 mm Datejust in Rolesor, Rolex’s combination of stainless steel and 18k yellow gold”
  • “fitted with a folded-link Jubilee bracelet, ref. 6252H, with 455 end links”

Dial and Crystal

The dial is finished with a champagne-coloured linen texture. It features applied hour markers, each topped with black accents for visibility. The printing on the dial, including the brand name and the 'Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified' text, is executed in black. At the bottom of the dial, the markings 'T SWISS T' denote the use of radioactive tritium-based luminous material on the hands and indices.

A date display is located at the 3 o'clock position. The crystal is fitted with a cyclops lens, which magnifies the date disc numerals. The dial exhibits a 'pie-pan' geometry, characterized by a sloping outer edge that creates distinct light reflections.

Evidence for this section
  • “champagne-coloured linen dial”
  • “black-topped hour markers”
  • “classic pie-pan dial gives the whole watch that unmistakable vintage Datejust look, with its distinctive sloping outer edge”

Movement and Servicing

The watch is powered by a Rolex self-winding Perpetual movement, which the source describes as a 'slow setting' mechanism.

Regarding the mechanical state of the timepiece, the auction description reports that it has been fully serviced by their watchmaker.

Evidence for this section
  • “self-winding Perpetual movement”
  • “Slow setting movement”
  • “fully serviced by our watchmaker”

Open research questions

  • What specific movement caliber is utilized in this 1974 production 1601/3?
  • Does the bracelet end link code 455 match the lug width requirements for this specific 1601 case?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Rolex Datejust 1601/3
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerRolex“Vendor: Rolex”
ModelDatejust 1601/3“Rolex Datejust 1601/3 Linen Champagne Dial”
Serial Number347xxxx“Serial 347xxxx dates to 1974”
Case MaterialRolesor (Steel and 18k gold)“Rolesor, Rolex’s combination of stainless steel and 18k yellow gold.”
Bracelet Reference6252H“folded-link Jubilee bracelet, ref. 6252H”
Bezel TypeFluted“36mm steel case with gold Fluted bezel”
Date1974“Serial 347xxxx dates to 1974”

Visible details

  • Textured linen-finish dial
  • Cyclops lens over the date aperture
  • Folded-link Jubilee bracelet
  • Black-topped hour indices

Research qualifications

  • Movement caliber type not explicitly specified beyond 'slow setting movement'
  • Exact composition of the lume material is not specified beyond 'cream-coloured'

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Rolex Datejust 1601/3 Linen Champagne Dial

Reviewed 2026-11-02 · Record b5e1de52ea

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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