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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Manual-winding wristwatch

Rolex Oyster 'Hooded Lug' Wristwatch

Partially verified

This vintage Rolex Oyster wristwatch, dating to approximately 1934, features a solid yellow gold case with distinctive stylized hooded lugs. It is powered by a manual-winding movement housed within a three-part water-resistant Oyster case. The dial is finished in a champagne tone with a multi-tone 'bow tie' motif, black Arabic numerals, and a railroad-style minute track on the periphery. At the 6 o'clock position, a subsidiary seconds register is integrated into the dial layout. The time is indicated by blued-steel pencil hands. Notably, the dial is signed 'C. Bucherer's' in the lower half, indicating its history as a retail piece through the C. Bucherer firm. The watch is presented on a black leather strap and the case exhibits wear commensurate with its age.

Front view of the Rolex Oyster featuring the 'bow tie' dial and hooded lugs.
Front view of the Rolex Oyster featuring the 'bow tie' dial and hooded lugs. — Oliver & Clarke. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
oliverandclarke.com
Category
Wristwatch · Manual-winding wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Rolex
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
Source URL identifies the listing
Source-reported date
circa 1934
Source-reported place
Not established

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Lugs

The watch utilizes an early Rolex Oyster construction characterized by a three-part, water-resistant case.

The case is constructed from solid yellow gold and is notable for its stylized hooded lugs. These lugs extend from the top and bottom of the circular case, attaching directly to the strap.

Evidence for this section
  • “innovative three part case that all screwed into each-other”
  • “crafted out of solid yellow gold with stylized 'hooded' lugs”

Dial and Hands

The dial displays a champagne-colored surface featuring a central 'bow tie' motif created by varying tones on the dial plate. The layout includes black Arabic numerals for the primary hours and a perimeter railroad track for minute indications.

Time is displayed via blued-steel pencil-style hands. A dedicated subsidiary seconds register is positioned at the 6 o'clock mark, maintaining a functional aesthetic.

The lower half of the dial is marked with the retailer signature 'C. Bucherer's', replacing the chronometer text often found on later models.

Evidence for this section
  • “The gold dial feature a multi-tone 'bow tie' motif, with black 'Arabic' numerals and a 'railroad' minute track on the outside”
  • “blued-steel 'pencil' handset”
  • “this piece is stamped with the name of an early Rolex retailer: 'C. Bucherer.'”

Condition and Wear

The auction description reports that the case displays signs of wear consistent with its age, yet retains its intended presentation. The watch relies on a manual-winding movement to function.

The lug design is noted to influence how the watch sits on the wrist, providing a visual presence that exceeds its objective dimensions.

Evidence for this section
  • “The case shows honest signs of wear given it's age and presents nicely.”
  • “thanks to the lug design this piece has a way of wearing larger than its dimensions would indicate on paper.”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific movement caliber used in this reference?
  • Are there internal case back engravings that verify the gold purity and production year?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Rolex Oyster 'Hooded Lug' Wristwatch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerRolex“The Rolex Oyster Perpetual. This is truly the genesis for the entire Rolex brand.”
DatingCirca 1934“Dating to circa 1934, this Oyster is something of an 'elevated' model”
Case MaterialSolid yellow gold“crafted out of solid yellow gold”
Retailer SignatureC. Bucherer's“this piece is stamped with the name of an early Rolex retailer: 'C. Bucherer.'”
Dial FeaturesMulti-tone bow tie motif“The gold dial feature a multi-tone 'bow tie' motif”
Minute trackRailroad-style“'railroad' minute track on the outside”

Visible details

  • Hooded lugs integrated into the watch case
  • Black Arabic numeral hour markers on the dial
  • Subsidiary seconds dial at the 6 o'clock position
  • Blued-steel pencil-style hands

Research qualifications

  • Exact year of manufacture is approximated as circa 1934
  • No specific case or movement serial numbers provided in source

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.