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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Self-winding wristwatch

Rolex Datejust 1601 Vertical Brush Silver Dial

Partially verified

This Rolex Datejust, reference 1601, is a self-winding wristwatch featuring a 36 mm steel Oyster case and an 18k white gold fluted bezel. The watch is powered by a caliber 1570 movement, which does not feature a quick-set date function. The dial is the primary distinguishing feature, characterized by a vertical brush finish on a pie-pan construction, contrasting with the standard silver sunburst dials often found on this reference. Black text is printed on the silver-toned surface, accompanied by clean hour markers. The watch is presented on a period-correct Rolex folded-link Jubilee bracelet, reference 6251H, equipped with 55 end links and a clasp stamped with the date code 4/71. The watch is documented as having serial number 121xxxx, which corresponds to a production year of 1966. The object includes the reported condition of having been fully serviced by the vendor's watchmaker.

A 1966 Rolex Datejust ref. 1601, showing the silver vertically brushed pie-pan dial and the folded-link Jubilee bracelet.
A 1966 Rolex Datejust ref. 1601, showing the silver vertically brushed pie-pan dial and the folded-link Jubilee bracelet. — Bulang & Sons. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
www.bulangandsons.com
Category
Wristwatch · Self-winding wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Rolex
Reference
1601
Catalogue / lot identifier
Source URL identifies the listing
Source-reported date
1966
Source-reported place
Not established
Source-reported serial
121xxxx

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial

The timepiece features a 36 mm stainless steel Oyster case equipped with a fluted bezel. According to the provided information, this bezel is composed of 18k white gold, intended to maintain a consistent aesthetic for the Datejust reference.

The dial features a vertically brushed surface, which serves as a departure from the more common sunburst finishes for this model. The construction utilizes a pie-pan configuration, where the outer edges of the dial slope downwards. A Cyclops magnifying lens is fitted to the crystal over the date aperture at the three o'clock position.

Evidence for this section
  • “fitted with a crisp fluted bezel in 18k white gold”
  • “unusual vertically brushed surface combined with the classic pie-pan construction”
  • “36 mm Oyster case”

Movement and Bracelet

Internally, the watch is driven by the Rolex caliber 1570 self-winding movement. This movement does not feature a quick-set mechanism, requiring the date to be advanced manually by rotating the hands through the 24-hour cycle. The watch has undergone service by the vendor.

The watch is mounted on a folded-link Jubilee bracelet identified as reference 6251H, which includes number 55 end links. The clasp is marked with the stamp 4/71, which the source identifies as a date indicator for the bracelet. This bracelet is described as a period-correct component that complements the 1966 watch head.

Evidence for this section
  • “1570 Movement - no quick set”
  • “period Rolex folded-link Jubilee bracelet, ref. 6215H”
  • “clasp stamped 4/71 — a lovely little detail that helps date the bracelet”

Dating and Identification

The watch is identified by the serial number 121xxxx. Based on this serial number, the manufacture date is established as 1966. This dating corresponds to the period during which the 1601 reference was in active production.

The bracelet's internal markings provide a secondary point of reference for the object as a whole. While the watch head is dated to 1966, the bracelet carries a stamp indicating manufacture in the second quarter of 1971.

Evidence for this section
  • “Serial 121xxxx dating to 1966”
  • “clasp stamped 4/71 — a lovely little detail that helps date the bracelet”

Open research questions

  • To what extent was the vertically brushed dial finish a factory-standard option for the 1601 reference in 1966?
  • Does the 121xxxx serial range align consistently with other known examples of the 1570 movement from the 1966 production cycle?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Rolex Datejust 1601 Vertical Brush Silver Dial
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerRolex“Vendor: Rolex”
Reference1601“classic ref. 1601”
Serial Number121xxxx“Serial 121xxxx dating to 1966”
Movement1570“1570 Movement - no quick set”
Bracelet Reference6251H“Jubilee bracelet 6251H”
Clasp Date Code4/71“clasp stamped 4/71”

Visible details

  • Vertically brushed texture on the dial
  • Pie-pan style dial construction
  • Cyclops lens over the date aperture
  • Fluted bezel in 18k white gold

Research qualifications

  • Clasp date code 4/71 suggests a bracelet produced after the 1966 watch head
  • Service history attributed to vendor's internal watchmaker

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Rolex Datejust 1601 Vertical Brush Silver Dial

Reviewed 2026-11-02 · Record b3cd78582e

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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