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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Diver's wristwatch

1987 Rolex Submariner Ref. 168000 "Triple Zero"

Partially verified

This 1987 Rolex Submariner reference 168000 is a stainless steel diver's wristwatch featuring a black glossy dial with yellowed tritium lume plots and hands. Produced for approximately 7 to 9 months between 1987 and 1988, the reference 168000 is identified as a transitional model representing a change in manufacturing materials, specifically the upgrade from grade 316L to grade 904L stainless steel. The timepiece is fitted with a sapphire crystal and a trip-lock crown, providing water resistance. It is mounted on a Rolex 93150 oyster bracelet with 593 end pieces. The auction description reports the watch is running at COSC specifications and remains in unpolished condition. The date wheel features open 6 and 9 numerals. This specific example retains its original green Rolex case back sticker and is noted for its short production window before being superseded by the reference 16610.

Front view of the 1987 Rolex Submariner Ref. 168000, showing the black glossy dial, tritium markers, and stainless steel oyster bracelet.
Front view of the 1987 Rolex Submariner Ref. 168000, showing the black glossy dial, tritium markers, and stainless steel oyster bracelet. — Craft & Tailored. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
craftandtailored.com
Category
Wristwatch · Diver's wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Rolex
Reference
168000
Catalogue / lot identifier
RLXSUB87168000-3
Source-reported date
1987
Source-reported place
Not established
Source-reported serial
R5XXXXX

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Bracelet

The watch is constructed in stainless steel, with the vendor noting an upgrade to 904L grade material for this specific reference. The case is described as unpolished, retaining original factory finishing, and is equipped with a triplock winding crown. A green Rolex sticker is present on the case back.

The bracelet is a stainless steel Rolex 93150 oyster model, complete with original links and 593 end pieces. The vendor reports minimal stretch in the bracelet components and notes that the bezel insert displays light wear while retaining its original tritium pearl.

Evidence for this section
  • “The unpolished case of this 1987 Ref.168000 remains sharp, showing strong factory finishing.”
  • “The Rolex 93150 oyster bracelet retains all of its original links and shows very minimal stretch”
  • “The case also retains the original green Rolex case back sticker.”

Dial and Hands

It features tritium-filled hour markers which have aged to a yellow coloration. The date window is positioned at the 3 o'clock mark and is magnified by a cyclops lens.

The hands are original to the piece and contain tritium material. The date wheel displays the open 6 and 9 numerals.

Evidence for this section
  • “The stunning and rare transitional gloss dial remains in flawless condition.”
  • “The tritium lume plots have achieved a charming yellow coloration”
  • “The date wheel is era correct with open 6's and 9's.”

Technical Specification and History

The reference 168000 was produced for a short span of roughly 7 to 9 months between 1987 and 1988. It served as a transitional bridge between the 16800 and the subsequent 16610. The model introduced updated steel grades and transitioned from the earlier movement architecture to later variants.

It utilizes a sapphire crystal to protect the dial and is rated for water resistance via the triplock system.

Evidence for this section
  • “The Rolex Submariner Ref 168000 was only produced in for about 7-9 months between 1987-1988”
  • “After only about 9 months of production 168000 was replaced with 16610”
  • “These Submariners include a sapphire crystal and the water resistance of a trip-lock crown.”

Open research questions

  • Can the specific production month be confirmed through the R-series serial number range?
  • To what extent does the dial's 'matte' appearance differ from the standard gloss lacquer finish applied to other 1980s Rolex references?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for 1987 Rolex Submariner Ref. 168000 "Triple Zero"
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
ModelSubmariner Ref. 168000“Rolex Submariner Ref.168000”
Production Date1987“1987 Rolex Submariner (Ref.168000)”
Material904L Stainless steel“improvement in the quality of the stainless steel, which was upgraded from grade 316L to grade 904L”
BraceletRolex 93150 Oyster“Rolex 93150 Oyster Bracelet W/ 593 End Pieces”
PerformanceCOSC spec“Watch is running at COSC spec.”

Visible details

  • Yellow-toned tritium lume plots on the dial
  • Date aperture with magnified cyclops lens
  • Unidirectional rotating bezel with luminous pearl
  • Triplock crown marked with Rolex coronet

Research qualifications

  • The exact production window is estimated by the vendor rather than confirmed by archival manufacturing data
  • The condition of the internal movement components is not documented in the source text

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

ساعت مچی Rolex Submariner رفرنس 168000 معروف به Triple Zero سال ۱۹۸۷

Reviewed 2026-11-02 · Record 21d9669cd7

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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