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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · GMT wristwatch

Rolex Explorer II Ref. 1655 'Straight Hand'

Partially verified

This Rolex Explorer II reference 1655, identified as a 'MK1' variant, dates from approximately 1972. The timepiece features a matte black dial and a signature orange 24-hour hand, which indicates time in a second time zone. A notable design element of this specific variant is the 'straight' seconds hand, which differs from other 1655 production versions. The watch is presented on an Oyster bracelet with a blade clasp. The stainless steel case has undergone past light polishing, while the MK2-style bezel remains unpolished. The watch features Tritium luminous elements that exhibit a light, even patina.

Front view of the Rolex Explorer II Ref. 1655 featuring the characteristic straight seconds hand.
Front view of the Rolex Explorer II Ref. 1655 featuring the characteristic straight seconds hand. — Oliver & Clarke. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
oliverandclarke.com
Category
Wristwatch · GMT wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Rolex
Reference
1655
Catalogue / lot identifier
Source URL identifies the listing
Source-reported date
circa 1972
Source-reported place
Switzerland

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Dial and Hands Configuration

The watch displays a matte black dial consistent with the Explorer II reference 1655 series. The luminous markers contain Tritium, which the vendor reports as having a light and even patina. The handset is configured with a prominent, vibrant orange 24-hour hand, which serves as a GMT-style indicator.

The date aperture at 3 o'clock is covered by a magnifying cyclops lens on the crystal, allowing for easier reading of the numerical date.

The hour indices are rectangular or triangular in shape, providing high visibility against the dark dial backdrop.

Evidence for this section
  • “The matte black dial is in outstanding overall condition, seemingly free of wear or damage and with a light and even patina across the Tritium elements.”
  • “The main difference and most obvious between a Mk1 and all other variants, is the 'straight' seconds hand.”
  • “The handset also matches perfectly, with a vibrant orange 24-hr hand.”

Case and Bracelet

The stainless steel case design includes protective guards around the winding crown. The vendor notes that the case has been lightly polished during previous ownership but maintains its original aesthetic proportions. The fixed bezel is of the MK2 style, featuring 24-hour engraved markers. The vendor reports that the bezel shows normal wear and has not been polished.

The watch is attached to a standard Oyster-style bracelet. The bracelet is secured by a blade clasp.

Evidence for this section
  • “The case has been lightly previously polished in the past, and done so tastefully, preserving the correct proportions and finishing.”
  • “The correct 'MK2' bezel shows normal wear and has seemingly been spared any previous polishing.”
  • “It comes fitted to a correct Oyster bracelet with a blade clasp.”

Documentation and Provenance

This watch is sold as a complete set including the original inner box and associated paper goods. This includes a COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) hangtag, which signifies that the movement met specific chronometric standards, and a serialized hangtag specific to this individual unit.

These papers accompany the watch and serve as primary evidence of its initial purchase history and authenticity.

While the watch is often colloquially linked to the actor Steve McQueen, the vendor clarifies that there is no factual evidence to support a historical connection between the actor and the reference 1655. The nickname remains a commonly used descriptor within the vintage watch market rather than a historical fact.

Evidence for this section
  • “this piece is accompanied by its inner box, COSC hangtag, serialized hangtag, and punched guarantee papers dated 10/12/1972.”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific movement caliber installed in this 1972 MK1 production run?
  • Can the case serial number be cross-referenced with the punched guarantee paper to confirm the original date of production versus the date of sale?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Rolex Explorer II Ref. 1655 'Straight Hand'
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Reference1655“Rolex Explorer II Ref. 1655”
VariantMK1“The example that we have here is a 'MK1' variant”
Datingcirca 1972“from circa 1972”
Date on papers10/12/1972“punched guarantee papers dated 10/12/1972”
Seconds hand typeStraight“The main difference and most obvious between a Mk1 and all other variants, is the 'straight' seconds hand.”
Bezel variantMK2“The correct 'MK2' bezel shows normal wear”

Visible details

  • Matte black dial with Tritium luminous hour markers.
  • Fixed stainless steel bezel with 24-hour markings.
  • Bright orange arrow-tipped 24-hour hand.
  • Cyclops lens over the date aperture at the 3 o'clock position.

Research qualifications

  • The nickname 'Steve McQueen' is associated with this model despite a lack of evidence regarding his ownership or endorsement.
  • The source notes the case has been lightly polished in the past.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

ساعت مچی Rolex Explorer II رفرنس 1655 موسوم به Straight Hand

Reviewed 2026-11-02 · Record 5034931694

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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