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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Explorer II

Rolex Explorer II Reference 16550

Partially verified

This Rolex Explorer II reference 16550, manufactured in 1986, is a 40mm stainless steel timepiece. The watch features a white dial, which is noted for its color preservation, contrasted by tritium-filled luminous plots and hands that have developed a yellow patina. The movement is contained within a stainless steel case fitted with a large-font 24-hour bezel. The timepiece is presented on a Rolex Oyster 93150 bracelet with 593 end pieces. According to the provided information, production of this specific reference occurred for approximately four years between 1985 and 1989. The watch is stated to be running at factory specifications, though its specific service history remains undocumented. No additional accessories are included. The case, lugs, and bracelet are described as having retained their original factory finishing and chamfering.

Front view of the Rolex Explorer II reference 16550 showing the white dial and 24-hour bezel.
Front view of the Rolex Explorer II reference 16550 showing the white dial and 24-hour bezel. — Craft & Tailored. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
craftandtailored.com
Category
Wristwatch · Explorer II
Maker / attribution
Rolex
Reference
16550
Catalogue / lot identifier
RLXEXP286
Source-reported date
1986
Source-reported place
Not established
Source-reported serial
94XXXXX

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Bracelet

The watch is housed in a 40mm stainless steel case. The auction description reports that the case retains its original factory finishing and case chamfering. It is equipped with a fixed, stainless steel bezel featuring a large-font 24-hour scale, which the source describes as being in excellent vintage condition.

The timepiece is attached to a Rolex Oyster bracelet. While the header of the description mentions a 78360 bracelet with 558b end pieces, the narrative text specifies a 93150 bracelet with 593 end pieces. The source indicates that the bracelet consists of 10 links and shows minor stretch and wear.

Evidence for this section
  • “The case remains in original condition with factory finishing and case chamfering still present.”
  • “The original large font stainless steel bezel remains excellent vintage condition.”
  • “The Rolex Oyster 93150 bracelet with 593 end pieces retains 10 links remains in excellent condition showing minor stretch and wear.”

Dial and Hands

The watch features a white dial described as remaining in a crisp white state. The hour markers are tritium-filled lume plots surrounded by black borders, which have aged to a bright yellow coloration. This coloration is consistent with the matching hour, minute, and seconds hands.

According to the auction description, the hands and lume plots were inspected under U.V. light and show no signs of lume degradation. The dial remains clear of the crazing or "spider" cracking sometimes associated with older gloss dials, despite the source mentioning a black rail dial in the data table.

Evidence for this section
  • “The glossy white dial remains a crisp white coloration while the black surround tritium filled lume plots and hands have aged to a wonderful bright yellow coloration.”
  • “The hands and lume plots show no lume degradation when inspected under U.V. light.”

Movement and Functionality

The movement powering this reference is not detailed by caliber, but the source reports that the watch is currently running to specification. The timepiece provides a date function, visible through a Cyclops magnifier on the crystal at the 3 o'clock position.

There is no documented service history provided for this movement. The auction house notes that the watch is currently functional, though it advises that the long-term history of mechanical maintenance remains unknown.

Evidence for this section
  • “The watch is running at spec additional service history is unknown.”

Open research questions

  • What is the definitive bracelet reference for this specific serial number?
  • Does the serial number range 94XXXXX correspond to a 1986 production date?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Rolex Explorer II Reference 16550
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
ModelRef. 16550“Model Ref. 16550”
Serial94XXXXX“Serial 94XXXXX”
Case MaterialStainless Steel“Material SS”
Diameter40mm“Millimeters 40mm”
Production Window1985–1989“Rolex only produced the 16550 for about four years, from 1985 to 1989”
Bracelet reference93150“The Rolex Oyster 93150 bracelet”
Dial conditionPatina“The white dial of this 16550 has taken on an excellent patina.”

Visible details

  • Triangular 24-hour hand with yellow patina
  • Cyclops date magnifier at 3 o'clock
  • Stainless steel Oyster bracelet with folding clasp
  • Fixed 24-hour bezel with black-filled numerals

Research qualifications

  • Service history is unknown
  • Source provides conflicting bracelet information: lists both 78360 and 93150

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

ساعت مچی رولکس Rolex Explorer II رفرنس 16550 مدل 1986

Reviewed 2026-11-02 · Record c766e085ee

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.