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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Datejust

Rolex Datejust 1601 Steel and Rose Gold Black Sigma Dial

Partially verified

This Rolex Datejust reference 1601 is a two-tone wristwatch featuring a stainless steel case paired with an 18k rose gold fluted bezel. Dated by its serial number to 1973, the watch is equipped with a black pie-pan dial, applied rose gold hour markers, and matching hands. The dial includes Sigma markings at the six o'clock position, indicating the use of solid 18k gold for the hands and indices. It is powered by a Rolex non-quickset automatic movement. The exterior retains a folded-link Jubilee bracelet composed of stainless steel and 18k rose gold, fitted with 55 end links and a clasp stamped with the date code '2/67'. This specific model is identified by the seller as a Rolesor execution, highlighting the contrast between the steel and rose gold elements.

Front view of the Rolex Datejust 1601 showing the black pie-pan dial and two-tone Jubilee bracelet.
Front view of the Rolex Datejust 1601 showing the black pie-pan dial and two-tone Jubilee bracelet. — Bulang & Sons. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
www.bulangandsons.com
Category
Wristwatch · Datejust
Maker / attribution
Rolex
Reference
1601
Catalogue / lot identifier
Source URL identifies the listing
Source-reported date
1973
Source-reported place
Not established
Source-reported serial
336xxxx

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Construction

The watch features a 36mm stainless steel case accented by an 18k rose gold fluted bezel. The dial is described as a black 'pie-pan' style, characterized by applied rose gold hour markers and matching hands. A prominent date aperture is located at the three o'clock position, magnified by a crystal-mounted Cyclops lens.

The dial is notable for its 'Sigma' markings situated at the six o'clock position, flanking the 'T SWISS T' signature. These indicators signify that the hour markers and hands are crafted from solid 18k gold. The luminous material applied to the markers and hands has aged to a cream-coloured patina.

Evidence for this section
  • “36mm steel case, plexi glass and 18k rose gold bezel”
  • “At six o'clock, the dial carries the desirable Sigma markings on either side of the "T SWISS T" signature.”
  • “The lume plots and matching hands have developed a beautiful cream-coloured patina”

Movement and Bracelet

The timepiece operates on a Rolex non-quickset automatic caliber. The watch is presented on a two-tone folded-link Jubilee bracelet crafted from stainless steel and 18k rose gold.

The bracelet is secured with 55 end links and features a clasp stamped with the date code '2/67', suggesting components were produced prior to the estimated 1973 manufacture date of the watch case. The overall configuration is identified as a Rolesor construction.

Evidence for this section
  • “Inside beats Rolex's reliable non-quickset calibre”
  • “The watch is fitted with a correct folded-link Jubilee bracelet in stainless steel and 18k pink gold, complete with reference 55 end links and a clasp stamped "2/67.”
  • “Serial 336xxxx dating to 1973”

Condition and Attribution

The auction description reports that the watch remains in a strong and well-preserved state, with the fluted rose gold bezel retaining its definition. The dial is presented as being in excellent condition, offering contrast between the gold indices and the black background.

Attributed to 1973 based on the serial number 336xxxx, the watch is classified as a rare pink gold execution of the Datejust 1601. The seller notes the combination of the steel and rose gold elements creates a warm character distinct from standard yellow gold counterparts.

Evidence for this section
  • “The case remains strong and well preserved, while the fluted pink gold bezel retains excellent definition.”
  • “Serial 336xxxx dating to 1973”
  • “Far less common than its yellow gold counterpart, the pink gold execution gives the watch a wonderfully warm and refined character.”

Open research questions

  • Does the clasp date code 2/67 suggest a bracelet replacement post-1973 or earlier stock usage?
  • Can the 336xxxx serial number range be narrowed to a specific production year beyond the seller's 1973 estimate?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Rolex Datejust 1601 Steel and Rose Gold Black Sigma Dial
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerRolex“Vendor: Rolex”
Reference1601“Rolex Datejust Reference 1601”
Serial Number336xxxx“Serial 336xxxx dating to 1973”
Case MaterialStainless steel and 18k rose gold“36mm steel case, plexi glass and 18k rose gold bezel”
BraceletFolded-link Jubilee“correct folded-link Jubilee bracelet in stainless steel and 18k pink gold”
Dial FeaturesBlack pie-pan dial with Sigma markings“Black pie-pan dial with rose gold markers, Sigma”
Clasp Code2/67“clasp stamped "2/67.”

Visible details

  • The black dial features a 'pie-pan' architecture.
  • The applied indices and hands exhibit a toned appearance.
  • The Jubilee bracelet includes mixed-metal links.
  • A Cyclops lens is present over the date window.

Research qualifications

  • The source attributes the watch to 1973 based on the serial number, which is an estimate.
  • The exact date of assembly for the bracelet clasp (2/67) precedes the estimated manufacture date of the watch.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Rolex Datejust 1601 Steel and Rose Gold Black Sigma Dial

Reviewed 2026-11-02 · Record 43642e06d7

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