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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Dive watch

Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508

Partially verified

This Rolex Submariner reference 5508 is a vintage wristwatch from the company's early professional series. Manufactured around 1958, the watch is characterized by its 37mm Oyster case, which lacks crown guards, a design feature that distinguishes it from later iterations of the Submariner line. It is equipped with a glossy black gilt dial featuring patinated luminous markers and matching hands. The watch is presented on a vintage 'rivet' Oyster bracelet with a 'big logo' clasp. According to the auction description, the case has undergone light polishing in the past while maintaining its original proportions and chamfered lugs. The rotating bezel features a 'fat font' insert that shows signs of color fading and wear. This example serves as a period-specific production from the years 1958-1962, representing a design era prior to the introduction of crown guards on subsequent Submariner models.

Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508, showing the 'small crown' and dial configuration.
Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508, showing the 'small crown' and dial configuration. — Oliver & Clarke. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
www.oliverandclarke.com
Category
Wristwatch · Dive watch
Maker / attribution
Rolex
Reference
5508
Catalogue / lot identifier
Source URL identifies the listing
Source-reported date
circa 1958
Source-reported place
Switzerland

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and External Design

The watch features a 37mm stainless steel Oyster case that lacks protective crown guards, a hallmark of the reference 5508. The auction description reports that the case has been previously polished but retains its original proportions, including the chamfers on the lugs.

The rotating bezel assembly contains a 'fat font' insert, which displays an attractive fade and wear consistent with the watch's age. The watch is paired with a vintage rivet Oyster bracelet featuring the 'big logo' clasp, which is described as a rare component in the context of vintage Rolex watches.

Evidence for this section
  • “features a more svelte 37mm Oyster case”
  • “The Ref. 5508 would also be the last Submariner without crown guards.”
  • “The case has been very lightly previously polished”
  • “The 'fat font' insert within exhibits an attractive fade”
  • “fitted with its correct 'rivet' Oyster bracelet with a 'big logo' clasp”

Dial and Hands

The timepiece is fitted with a glossy black 'gilt' dial. The dial retains its original black finish, showing uniform signs of age throughout. The hour markers are comprised of patinated luminous plots that match the coloration of the handset.

The dial includes text indicating the depth rating and model identity, with the 'Submariner' text positioned below the depth rating. The overall condition of the dial is reported as strong given the age of the timepiece.

Evidence for this section
  • “glossy black 'gilt' dial is in great condition given its age.”
  • “evenly patinated luminous plots and a nicely matching handset.”
  • “The deep black color is largely preserved, with light and uniform signs of aging throughout”

Condition and Provenance

The auction description reports the watch to be in strong overall condition, noting that it originates from the approximate production period of 1958 to 1962.

The bracelet shows signs of light polishing and wear, which the vendor notes is consistent with the condition of the watch head. No further provenance or service history documentation is provided in the source.

Evidence for this section
  • “comes to us in strong overall condition.”
  • “produced for roughly 4 years in 1958-1962”
  • “this particular example was likely sold next to very early Ref. 5512 and 5513s”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific serial number for this individual timepiece?
  • Does the dial retain its original gilt finish throughout or are there signs of replacement/restoration?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerRolex“Rolex Submariner”
Reference5508“Reference 5508”
Datecirca 1958“Dating to circa 1958”
Case Size37mm“37mm Oyster case”
CrownSmall crown, no guards“The Ref. 5508 would also be the last Submariner without crown guards.”
BraceletRivet Oyster with big logo clasp“fitted with its correct 'rivet' Oyster bracelet with a 'big logo' clasp”

Visible details

  • Symmetrical lugs with visible chamfers
  • Glossy black gilt dial with aged luminous plots
  • Rotating bezel with faded 'fat font' insert
  • Rivet-style Oyster bracelet with 'big logo' clasp

Research qualifications

  • Specific production date within 1958-1962 remains an estimate
  • Previous history of case polishing is noted without specific records

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

ساعت مچی Rolex Submariner رفرنس 5508

Reviewed 2026-11-02 · Record 2094173404

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Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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