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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Self-winding wristwatch with date

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Submariner Ref. 1680

Partially verified

This Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Submariner, reference 1680, is a stainless steel wristwatch produced in 1970. It features a center-seconds display, an automatic self-winding movement, and is water-resistant to 200 meters. The watch is distinguished by its black dial, which includes the "Submariner" signature in red, luminous hour markers, and a date aperture. It is fitted with a stainless steel "Fliplock" Oyster bracelet. The timepiece incorporates a bidirectional revolving black bezel for decompression timing and a Twinlock winding crown shielded by crown guards. The movement is a caliber 1570, rhodium-plated with oeil-de-perdrix finish, featuring a straight-line lever escapement, a free-sprung Breguet balance spring with Microstella regulating screws, and a hack mechanism. The case, dial, and movement are signed by the manufacturer. The watch measures 40 mm in diameter and 14 mm in thickness.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Submariner with red 'Submariner' dial.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Submariner with red 'Submariner' dial. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Wristwatch · Self-winding wristwatch with date
Maker / attribution
Rolex
Reference
1680
Catalogue / lot identifier
166
Source-reported date
1970
Source-reported place
Switzerland

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Details

The watch features a three-body stainless steel case that has been finished with both polished and brushed surfaces. It includes a screwed-down case back and a Twinlock winding crown, the latter of which is protected by integrated crown guards to prevent accidental adjustment or damage. The top of the case is fitted with a crystal featuring the signature Cyclops lens over the date aperture for increased legibility.

The dial is black and marked with the word "Submariner" printed in red. The hour indices consist of a combination of luminous round, triangular, and baton shapes. A bidirectional revolving black bezel is mounted to the exterior, providing the user with a scale for tracking decompression times during diving activities. Outer minute and seconds divisions are printed around the periphery of the dial.

Evidence supports the construction of the case and the layout of the dial, including the specific inclusion of the red script which is a primary identifier for this reference. The bezel functionality is noted as being specifically designed for diving applications.

Evidence for this section
  • “Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown”
  • “graduated bidirectional revolving black bezel for the decompression times”
  • “Black with "Submariner" in red, luminous round, triangular and baton indexes”

Movement and Performance

The movement powering this wristwatch is the Rolex caliber 1570. This mechanical, self-winding movement is rhodium-plated and decorated with oeil-de-perdrix patterns. It contains 26 jewels and operates via a straight-line lever escapement. The balance system is monometallic and adjusted to five positions and temperature variations to ensure accurate timekeeping.

Further technical features include a self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring equipped with Microstella regulating screws for fine adjustment. The movement also incorporates a hack mechanism, allowing the user to stop the seconds hand for precise synchronization. A shock absorber system is integrated into the architecture to provide durability.

The movement is fully signed by the manufacturer, consistent with the dial and case signatures. Technical specifications provided indicate the caliber's performance orientation, designed to meet the criteria of a superlative chronometer.

Evidence for this section
  • “Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels”
  • “straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions”
  • “self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism”

Condition and Grading

The auction house has assigned an overall grading of AA, describing the piece as very good. Specific component grades indicate the case and movement are both graded 3, which is categorized as good.

The dial is similarly graded as 3-7-03, described as good. It is noted that the luminous hands show signs of oxidation, which is a consideration for the watch's aesthetic and material state. The provided technical descriptions confirm that the watch maintains its signature features, though service requirements are highlighted.

Evidence for this section
  • “Grading System Grade: AA Very good”
  • “Case: 3 Good Movement: 3* Good Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense”
  • “Dial: 3-7-03 Good Oxidized HANDS”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific movement serial number associated with this lot?
  • Has the watch undergone any internal restoration or component replacement since 1970?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Submariner Ref. 1680
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Reference1680“Ref. 1680”
Date1970“Made in 1970”
Diameter40 mm“Diam. 40 mm”
MovementCaliber 1570“M. Cal. 1570”
Jewels26“26 jewels”
Water Resistance200 meters“water-resistant to 200 m”
Dial ColorBlack“Black with "Submariner" in red”

Visible details

  • Red 'Submariner' text on the dial
  • Cyclops lens over the date window
  • Bidirectional revolving black bezel with minute graduations
  • Luminous round, triangular and baton hour markers

Research qualifications

  • Movement and dial condition require verification as the auction description reports oxidation on the hands
  • The grading report mentions an overhaul is recommended

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.