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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Datejust

Rolex Ladies Datejust Ref. 69173 with Tiffany & Co. Dial

Partially verified

This 1990 Rolex ladies' Datejust, reference 69173, is a self-winding wristwatch constructed from stainless steel and 18K yellow gold. It features a 26mm diameter case paired with a two-tone Jubilee bracelet (reference 62523D-18) incorporating 468B end pieces. The silver sunburst dial is co-branded with a printed "Tiffany & Co." signature and is set with factory diamond hour markers. The watch utilizes yellow gold hands and retains tritium lume plots. The fluted bezel is crafted from 18K yellow gold. The watch is powered by a Rolex movement and is reported to maintain time. The case back retains original factory engravings.

Front view of the Rolex Ladies Datejust showing the diamond dial and fluted bezel
Front view of the Rolex Ladies Datejust showing the diamond dial and fluted bezel — Craft & Tailored. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
craftandtailored.com
Category
Wristwatch · Datejust
Maker / attribution
Rolex
Reference
69173
Catalogue / lot identifier
Source URL identifies the listing
Source-reported date
1990
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
E1XXXXX

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Bracelet Construction

The watch case is composed of stainless steel with an 18K yellow gold fluted bezel. It measures 26mm in diameter. The auction description notes that the case maintains factory finishing with minimal wear and no evidence of prior polishing. The case back retains its original factory engravings.

It is equipped with a two-tone Jubilee bracelet, reference 62523D-18, fitted with 468B end pieces. The bracelet contains 18 links and is stated to fit a wrist size of up to 6.25 inches. The auction description reports light stretch in the bracelet.

Evidence for this section
  • “The 18K yellow gold fluted bezel appears to remain unpolished”
  • “The original Rolex 62523D-18 two-tone Jubilee bracelet with 468B end pieces retains 18 links that show light stretch”

Dial and Signature Details

The silver sunburst dial features factory-applied diamond hour markers and is signed "Tiffany & Co." The auction description identifies the Tiffany & Co. printing as a feature applied by the retailer rather than the manufacturer. The dial includes tritium lume plots and original yellow gold hands.

Subtle age is reported on the edge of the dial between the 7 and 9 o'clock markers, though it is described as invisible to the naked eye. The dial is marked with "T SWISS MADE T" at the bottom.

Evidence for this section
  • “The original silver sunburst "Tiffany & Co." dial with factory diamond markers is simply exceptional”
  • “logos were printed by hand at the Tiffany Location in New York City, not by Rolex.”

Condition and Performance

The auction description states that the watch is currently keeping time. The service history of the movement is unknown, and the piece is offered without original accessories.

Inspection of the tritium lume plots and hands under UV light revealed no degradation. The watch is categorized as a vintage piece.

Evidence for this section
  • “The watch is keeping time perfectly, though the service history is unknown.”
  • “The tritium lume plots all remain intact, with no degradation present under UV light inspeciton”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific production sequence of the E1XXXXX serial range in relation to the conclusion of the Rolex-Tiffany retail partnership?
  • Are there secondary authentication markers on the dial plate associated with authentic Tiffany-signed Rolex dials from the 1990s?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Rolex Ladies Datejust Ref. 69173 with Tiffany & Co. Dial
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerRolex“Brand Rolex”
Reference69173“Model 69173”
SerialE1XXXXX“Serial E1XXXXX”
Year1990“1990 Rolex Ladies Two-Tone Datejust”
Case MaterialStainless Steel / 18K Yellow Gold“Material Stainless Steel / 18K Yellow Gold”
Case Diameter26mm“Millimeters 26”
BraceletRolex 62523D-18“Bracelet Rolex 62523D-18 Two-Tone Jubilee Bracelet W/ 468B End Pieces”

Visible details

  • Silver sunburst dial featuring diamond-set hour markers
  • Cyclops lens positioned over the date aperture
  • Two-tone Jubilee bracelet with yellow gold center links
  • "T SWISS MADE T" text at the base of the dial

Research qualifications

  • Service history is unknown
  • Authentication of the Tiffany & Co. dial signature as a factory-retailer addition

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.