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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Datejust wristwatch

1991 Rolex Datejust Ref. 16220

Partially verified

The Rolex Datejust reference 16220 is a 36mm stainless steel wristwatch produced circa 1991. The watch features an engine-turned stainless steel bezel and is powered by the Rolex Caliber 3135 movement, which incorporates a quick-set date function. The dial is silver with a noted peach-colored patina and applied tritium indices, while the hands are also original tritium-filled. It is fitted with an original Rolex 78360 Oyster bracelet with 558B end pieces. This model is categorized as a transitional reference, as it combines the tritium dial with modern upgrades such as the sapphire crystal and the updated Caliber 3135 movement. The auction description reports that the date wheel is the original white version featuring open 6 and 9 numerals. The watch is presented as a stainless steel timepiece designed for everyday wear.

Front view of the 1991 Rolex Datejust reference 16220 showing the silver dial with peach patina, engine-turned bezel, and Oyster bracelet.
Front view of the 1991 Rolex Datejust reference 16220 showing the silver dial with peach patina, engine-turned bezel, and Oyster bracelet. — Craft & Tailored. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
craftandtailored.com
Category
Wristwatch · Datejust wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Rolex
Reference
16220
Catalogue / lot identifier
RLXDJ16220-4
Source-reported date
1991
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
E7XXXXX

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Bracelet

The stainless steel case measures 36mm and features an engine-turned bezel. The auction description reports that the case appears to have been polished once in the past, noting that the lugs remain in condition described as near factory.

The watch is secured by its original 78360 Oyster bracelet with 558B end pieces. The bracelet comprises 12 links and the vendor notes that it shows no stretch, with sufficient length to accommodate a wrist up to 7 1/4 inches.

Evidence for this section
  • “The thick and robust case appears to have been gently polished once in its past as the syymetcial lugs remain in near factory condition”
  • “The engine-turned stainless steel is in excellent condition”
  • “The original Rolex 78360 Oyster bracelet with 558B end pieces retains 12 links that show no stretch and will fit up to a 7 1/4 inch wrist.”

Dial and Hands

The watch features a silver dial described as having developed a peach-colored patina. The indices contain tritium lume plots, described as having an eggshell color. The hands are the original tritium-filled versions and are noted to match the patina of the dial markers.

The date function is displayed through a cyclops lens on the sapphire crystal. The date wheel is white, with open-style numerals for 6 and 9. The dial is signed 'T SWISS MADE T' at the six o'clock position.

Evidence for this section
  • “The flawless silver dial has achieved a subtle yet stunning peach-colored patina and exhibit no flaws whatsoever.”
  • “The tritium lume plots are a lovely eggshell coloration”
  • “The original tritium hands match the dial nicely”
  • “The early white date wheel is original with open 6's and 9's.”

Movement and Functionality

The watch utilizes the Rolex Caliber 3135 movement. This movement includes a quick-set date function, distinguishing it from earlier iterations of the Datejust. The vendor states that the watch was recently serviced and is currently keeping time.

As a transitional reference, this watch pairs the historical tritium dial elements with the technical advancement of the Caliber 3135 movement and a sapphire crystal.

Evidence for this section
  • “The Rolex Datejust ref. 16220 is a transitional reference as it features a tritium dial, but features numerous upgrades such as a sapphire crystal and the Rolex Cal. 3135 movement which features a quick-set date function.”
  • “The watch was recently serviced and is keeping time perfectly”

Open research questions

  • Does the 'E' prefix in the serial number definitively correlate to a 1991 production date in the manufacturer's archives?
  • Are there any specific indicators on the case back that signify the original assembly configuration for this reference?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for 1991 Rolex Datejust Ref. 16220
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerRolex“Brand Rolex”
Reference16220“Model 16220”
Serial NumberE7XXXXX“Serial E7XXXXX”
Year of Manufacture1991“1991 Rolex Datejust (Ref. 16220)”
Case MaterialStainless Steel“Material Stainless Steel”
Bracelet Reference78360“Rolex 78360 Oyster Bracelet W/ 558B End Pieces”
MovementRolex Caliber 3135“Rolex Cal. 3135 movement”
End Pieces558B“558B End Pieces”

Visible details

  • Engine-turned bezel design
  • Tritium luminous plots on the dial perimeter
  • Cyclops lens over the date aperture
  • Rolex Oyster-style stainless steel bracelet

Research qualifications

  • The exact condition of the movement internals is not visually verifiable through photos
  • The extent of polishing is described as 'gently polished once in its past' and cannot be independently confirmed

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.