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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · GMT wristwatch

Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16550

Partially verified

This Rolex Explorer II, reference 16550, is a transitional model produced in 1984, representing the bridge between references 1655 and 16570. The watch features a 40mm stainless steel case paired with an Oyster bracelet, model 78360, which includes the rare 501 end links. The dial is black with tritium hour markers showing a cream-colored patina and indices surrounded by white gold. It is powered by the Rolex caliber 3085 movement, which provides the jumping hour hand functionality. The fixed 24-hour bezel is engraved with large numerals and retains most of its original black enamel. The piece is in original condition, with the dial exhibiting a textured, semi-matte patina.

The face of the Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16550, highlighting the cream-colored tritium indices and the 24-hour bezel.
The face of the Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16550, highlighting the cream-colored tritium indices and the 24-hour bezel. — Craft & Tailored. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
zamanito.com
Category
Wristwatch · GMT wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Rolex
Reference
16550
Catalogue / lot identifier
RLXEXP216550-4
Source-reported date
1984
Source-reported place
Not established
Source-reported serial
84XXXXX

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial

The watch is housed in a 40mm stainless steel case that the auction description reports is in excellent condition. The lugs appear full and symmetrical, displaying mild wear and minor evidence of prior polishing. The fixed stainless steel 24-hour bezel, which features large engraved numerals, is described by the source as original. It shows only slight loss to the black enamel fill and minor surface wear.

The black dial is presented as original and in excellent condition for its age, exhibiting a textured, semi-matte patina that the source notes occasionally appears on this specific reference. The tritium hour markers have developed a deep cream-colored patina, while the original tritium-filled hands match the dial, although they are noted to be slightly lighter in color. The date window features a white disk with open sixes and nines.

Evidence for this section
  • “قاب در وضعیت عالی قرار دارد و پایه‌های پُر و متقارن آن سایش ملایم و شواهد اندکی از پولیش قبلی نشان می‌دهند”
  • “سطح براق آن پتینه‌ای بافت‌دار و نیمه‌مات پیدا کرده که بنا بر متن گاهی در این رفرنس دیده می‌شود”
  • “دیسک تاریخ سفید با ارقام ۶ و ۹ باز نیز طبق منبع اصلی است”

Movement and Bracelet

This example is equipped with the Rolex caliber 3085 movement. A notable functional feature of this movement is the jumping hour hand, a characteristic it shares with the GMT-Master II models sometimes referred to as the 'Fat Lady'.

The watch is fitted with an Oyster bracelet, model 78360, which bears a date code of 'I'. It utilizes the rare 501 end links. The bracelet consists of 12 links and, according to the provided report, shows minor stretching and light wear. It is sized to accommodate a wrist measurement of up to 7.25 inches.

Evidence for this section
  • “موتور Rolex کالیبر 3085 با قابلیت جهش عقربه ساعت، مشترک با GMT-Master II موسوم به «Fat Lady»”
  • “دستبند Oyster مدل 78360 نیز طبق منبع اصلی، دارای کد تاریخ «I» و قطعات انتهایی اصلی و بسیار کمیاب 501 است”
  • “۱۲ لینک آن کشیدگی خفیف و سایش اندک دارند و برای مچ تا 7.25 اینچ مناسب‌اند”

Authentication and Condition Reports

The provided documentation emphasizes the originality of the componentry, stating that the dial, bezel, and bracelet are original to the watch. The source reports that ultraviolet light testing conducted on the dial and hands shows no signs of degradation in the tritium lume. The object is being sold without any accompanying box or papers.

All details concerning the history and condition are attributed to the source. The description notes that this information and the associated claims are provided by the vendor, and they do not constitute an independent assessment of the watch's authenticity or internal mechanical state.

Evidence for this section
  • “در بررسی گزارش‌شده زیر نور فرابنفش، شب‌تاب صفحه و عقربه‌ها تخریب نشان نمی‌دهد”
  • “این اطلاعات و سابقه به منبع نسبت داده می‌شوند و تأیید مستقل اصالت یا کارکرد توسط زمانیتو نیستند”

Open research questions

  • Can the serial number range be narrowed down to confirm a production closer to 1984?
  • What is the specific cause of the textured semi-matte patina on this dial variant?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16550
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerRolex“سازنده: Rolex”
Reference16550“رفرنس: 16550”
Production Period1984-1989“دوره تولید رفرنس: 1984 تا 1989”
Case Size40mm“اندازه قاب: 40mm”
MovementRolex caliber 3085“کالیبر: Rolex 3085”
Bracelet Model78360“دستبند: Rolex Oyster 78360”
Bracelet End Links501“قطعات انتهایی: 501”
Lume MaterialTritium“شب‌تاب صفحه: تریتیوم با پتینه کرم‌رنگ پررنگ”

Visible details

  • Black dial with indices featuring white gold surrounds
  • 24-hour fixed stainless steel bezel with large numeral engraving
  • Oyster bracelet model 78360 with 501 end links
  • Cream-colored tritium patina on dial markers and hands

Research qualifications

  • The source notes that the dial surface has developed a semi-matte, textured patina characteristic of some examples of this reference.
  • The original condition and performance are claimed by the source but are not independently verified.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

ساعت مچی Rolex Explorer II رفرنس 16550 صفحه مشکی، سال ۱۹۸۴

Reviewed 2026-11-02 · Record 2338da7b8f

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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