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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Keyless dress watch

Vacheron & Constantin Keyless Dress Watch

Partially verified

This 18K yellow gold keyless dress watch, numbered 336252, was manufactured by Vacheron & Constantin for the retailer Anquetin, located at 77 Rue D'Aboukir, Paris. Dating to approximately 1920, the watch is housed in a four-body polished 'demi-bassine' case measuring 50 mm in diameter. The case back features a monogram, and the watch includes a hinged gold cuvette. The matte silver dial is finished with an engine-turned center, black Arabic numerals, an outer minute track, and a subsidiary seconds dial. Gold spade hands, identified in the auction documentation as later replacements, indicate the time. The movement is a 17-ligne frosted gilt caliber containing 15 jewels. It features wolf's tooth winding, a straight-line lever escapement, a cut bimetallic compensation balance, and a blued steel Breguet balance spring with an index regulator. The dial, case, and movement bear the manufacturer's signatures, while the cuvette is signed by the retailer.

Front view of the Vacheron & Constantin pocket watch, showing the silver engine-turned dial and gold spade hands.
Front view of the Vacheron & Constantin pocket watch, showing the silver engine-turned dial and gold spade hands. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Pocket watch · Keyless dress watch
Maker / attribution
Vacheron & Constantin
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
539
Source-reported date
circa 1920
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
336252 (movement), 204920 (case)

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial

The watch is enclosed in an 18K yellow gold, four-body case of the 'demi-bassine' type. The exterior surfaces are polished, and the case back is inscribed with a monogram. A hinged inner gold cuvette protects the movement and carries the signature of the retailer, Anquetin.

The matte silver dial displays a central engine-turned pattern. It is arranged with black-painted Arabic numerals and an outer minute track. A subsidiary seconds dial is positioned at the bottom of the dial. The time is shown via gold spade hands, which the auction description identifies as later replacements. The dial is signed by Vacheron & Constantin.

Evidence for this section
  • “Four-body, ?demi-bassine?, polished, monogrammed case back”
  • “Hinged gold cuvette”
  • “Matte silver with Arabic numerals, outer minute track, subsidiary seconds, engine-turned center”
  • “Later HANDS”

Movement and Escapement

The watch is powered by a 17-ligne movement featuring a frosted gilt finish. It is constructed with 15 jewels and incorporates wolf's tooth winding wheels. The movement design utilizes a straight-line lever escapement to transfer power to the balance assembly.

Frequency regulation is managed by a cut bimetallic compensation balance paired with a blued steel Breguet balance spring. An index regulator is included to facilitate timing adjustments. The movement is signed by Vacheron & Constantin and appears to be in a condition that the auction description suggests necessitates an overhaul.

Evidence for this section
  • “Cal. 17"', frosted gilt, 15 jewels, wolf's tooth winding, straight-line lever escapement”
  • “cut bimetallic compensation balance, blued steel Breguet balance spring, index regulator”
  • “Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense”

Signatures and Attribution

The watch is attributed to Vacheron & Constantin, with individual signatures found on the dial, the case, and the movement. The manufacture date is estimated to be circa 1920. The watch was produced specifically for the Parisian retailer Anquetin, whose address and specific reference number are recorded on the cuvette.

The documentation provided by the auction house includes movement serial 336252 and case serial 204920. The retailer is identified as located at 77 Rue D'Aboukir, Paris, with the retailer's own reference number recorded as 7481.

Evidence for this section
  • “Made for Anquetin, 77 Rue D'Aboukir, Paris, No. 7481, circa 1920”
  • “Dial, case and movement signed, cuvette signed by the retailer.”

Open research questions

  • What is the significance of the retailer reference number 7481 in relation to Anquetin's inventory records?
  • Are there archival records at Vacheron & Constantin confirming the specific distribution date for this watch to the Paris market?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Vacheron & Constantin Keyless Dress Watch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerVacheron & Constantin“Vacheron & Constantin, Genève”
Movement Serial336252“No. 336252”
Case Serial204920“case No. 204920”
RetailerAnquetin, Paris“Made for Anquetin, 77 Rue D'Aboukir, Paris, No. 7481”
Case typeFour-body demi-bassine“Four-body, ?demi-bassine?, polished, monogrammed case back”
Dial finishMatte silver with engine-turned center“Matte silver with Arabic numerals, outer minute track, subsidiary seconds, engine-turned center”
Movement caliber17-ligne“Cal. 17"'”
EscapementStraight-line lever“straight-line lever escapement”

Visible details

  • Case features a polished finish with a monogrammed back
  • Matte silver dial includes engine-turned decoration in the center
  • Gold spade-shaped hands are present
  • Movement is finished with frosted gilding

Research qualifications

  • The auction description specifies that the hands are later replacements
  • The auction description recommends an overhaul for the movement

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Vacheron & Constantin, Genève, No. 336252, case No. 204920. Made for Anquetin, 77 Rue D'Aboukir, Paris, No. 7481, circa 1920. Very fine, 18K yellow gold, keyless dress watch.

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record 12ca31a4cc

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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