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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Keyless dress watch

Omega 18K Gold and Enamel Keyless Dress Watch

Partially verified

This Omega keyless dress watch, attributed to circa 1905, is constructed in 18K gold and features decorative enamel work. The case is a four-body "bassine" design, with the back surface finished in light blue translucent enamel over sunburst engine-turning, accented by applied gold flowers and laurel-leaf garlands. It is bordered by white opaque enamel, while the bezel features white enamel with gold scrolling elements. The watch measures 51 mm in diameter. It is accompanied by a gold chain and its original fitted box. Internally, the watch is powered by a 36.3 mm frosted gilt movement featuring 15 jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, and a cut bimetallic compensation balance with a Breguet balance spring. The mechanism incorporates a Louis Brandt & frère patented winding and setting system, recorded as No. 8760 of August 1, 1894. The watch is signed on the dial, case, and movement.

18K gold and enamel keyless dress watch with floral and laurel-leaf decoration.
18K gold and enamel keyless dress watch with floral and laurel-leaf decoration. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Pocket watch · Keyless dress watch
Maker / attribution
Omega
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
354
Source-reported date
circa 1905
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
3068848

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Exterior Decoration

The watch features a four-body 'bassine' case manufactured in 18K gold. The exterior of the case back is decorated with light blue translucent enamel applied over a sunburst engine-turned base. This central area is embellished with gold laurel-leaf garlands and applied gold flowers, framed by a white opaque enamel border.

The watch's bezel is also finished with white enamel, which is further decorated with gold scrolling motifs. The case band possesses a textured finish. The watch is presented with a gold chain and is housed in its original fitted box, as specified by the auction listing.

Evidence for this section
  • “Four-body, "bassine", back decorated with laurel-leaf garlands and applied gold flowers on light blue translucent enamel over sunburst engine-turning, white opaque enamel border, textured band, white enamel bezel with gold scrolling.”
  • “18K gold and enamel keyless dress watch with gold chain in original fitted box.”

Dial and Hands

The white enamel dial displays a standard 12-hour layout utilizing bold Roman numerals for the primary time display. An outer track indicates minutes, while an inner red chapter ring provides a 24-hour (13-24) scale.

A subsidiary seconds dial is sunk into the main surface of the dial. The watch is equipped with gilt 'Louis XV' hands for indicating the hours and minutes.

Evidence for this section
  • “D. White enamel, bold Roman numerals, outer minute track, inner red 24-hour (13-24) chapter subsidiary sunk seconds. Gilt "Louis XV" hands.”

Movement and Technical Specifications

The movement is a 36.3 mm (17''') frosted gilt caliber, comprising 15 jewels. It features a straight-line lever escapement paired with a cut bimetallic compensation balance, regulated by a Breguet balance spring.

Winding and hand-setting are facilitated by the Louis Brandt & frère patented system, cited as No. 8760 of August 1, 1894. The watch is signed by Omega on the dial, case, and movement.

Evidence for this section
  • “36.3 mm. (17''') frosted gilt, 15 jewels, straight line lever escapement, cut bimetallic compensation balance with Breguet balance spring, Louis Brandt & frère patented winding/setting system (No. 8760 of August 1, 1894).”
  • “Signed on dial, case and movement.”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific significance of the Art Nouveau period in relation to Omega's case production as mentioned in the notes?
  • Are there specific records linking the Louis Brandt & frère patent No. 8760 to the specific production run of this movement?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Omega 18K Gold and Enamel Keyless Dress Watch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Movement Serial Number3068848“No. 3068848”
Case Serial Number3627712“caseNo. 3627712”
Case TypeFour-body, bassine“Four-body, "bassine”
Movement Diameter36.3 mm“36.3 mm. (17''')”
Jewel Count15 jewels“15 jewels”
Patented SystemLouis Brandt & frère winding and setting“Louis Brandt & frère patented winding/setting system (No. 8760 of August 1, 1894)”

Visible details

  • Light blue translucent enamel over engine-turned sunburst pattern
  • Applied gold laurel-leaf garlands and floral accents on the case back
  • White enamel chapter ring on the bezel with gold scroll motifs
  • Dual 12-hour Roman numeral and 24-hour red numeric dial layout

Research qualifications

  • The source attributes the watch to circa 1905, but does not provide documentary proof for this exact date.
  • The condition grading codes are provided by the auction house and represent their internal assessment.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Omega, Swiss, No. 3068848, caseNo. 3627712, circa 1905.Very fine and rare 18K gold and enamel keyless dress watch with gold chain in original fitted box.

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record d2b4e1885c

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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