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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Keyless dress watch

Vacheron & Constantin Sapphire-Set Platinum Dress Watch

Partially verified

This platinum keyless dress watch was manufactured by Vacheron & Constantin, Genève, with a case produced by Verger Frères, circa 1925. The object features a three-body, solid, polished platinum case, characterized by the inclusion of sapphire settings along the case band and bow. Measuring 42 mm in diameter, the watch displays a brushed silver dial accented with black Art Deco Arabic numerals and an outer minute track. Time is indicated by a pair of blued steel Breguet-style hands. Internally, the watch is powered by a rhodium-plated movement, Caliber 15, which incorporates 18 jewels and a straight-line lever escapement. The movement is fitted with a cut bimetallic compensation balance, a blued steel flat balance spring, and an index regulator, with the entire mechanism featuring eight adjustments. The watch is signed by Vacheron & Constantin on the movement and bears the Verger Frères mark on the case.

Front and side view of the platinum and sapphire dress watch showing the case band stones and the dial layout.
Front and side view of the platinum and sapphire dress watch showing the case band stones and the dial layout. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Pocket watch · Keyless dress watch
Maker / attribution
Vacheron & Constantin
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
260
Source-reported date
circa 1925
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
Movement: 394420, Case: 7420

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Construction

The watch is presented in a three-body, solid platinum case that has been polished. A prominent design element is the case band and the bow, which are set with sapphires.

The dial is composed of brushed silver and features black Art Deco style Arabic numerals. It includes an outer minute division track. The hour and minute indicators consist of blued steel Breguet hands, which contrast with the silver surface of the dial. The auction description reports the dial as being reprinted.

Evidence for this section
  • “Three-body, solid, polished, the case band and bow set with sapphires.”
  • “Brushed silver with black Art Deco Arabic numerals, outer minute divisions.”
  • “Dial: 2-53-01 Very good Reprinted”

Movement and Technical Specifications

The movement is a rhodium-plated Caliber 15, containing 18 jewels. The mechanical configuration utilizes a straight-line lever escapement. The timing elements include a cut bimetallic compensation balance with eight adjustments and a blued steel flat balance spring.

The movement incorporates an index regulator for precision adjustments. Regarding current condition, the auction house reports that the movement exhibits oxidation and requires repairs to ensure its functionality.

Evidence for this section
  • “Cal. 15???, rhodium-plated, 18 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, cut bimetallic compensation balance with eight adjustments, blued steel fl at balance spring, index regulator.”
  • “Movement: 3-7** Good Oxidized Repair required, at buyer's expense”

Signatures and Identifiers

The watch is clearly identified by its movement number 394420, which is signed by Vacheron & Constantin. The case is marked as number 7420, accompanied by the punch mark of Verger Frères.

The combination of the Vacheron & Constantin movement and the specific Verger Frères case markings serves as the primary authentication for the object's origin and manufacture, which is dated to approximately 1925.

Evidence for this section
  • “Vacheron & Constantin, Genève, movement No. 394420, case by Verger Frères, No. 7420.”
  • “Movement signed Vacheron & Constantin, case punched with Verger Frères mark. Case and movement numbered.”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific sub-type of the Caliber 15 movement used in this reference?
  • Does archival documentation from Verger Frères confirm the date of the casing process for this specific movement serial number?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Vacheron & Constantin Sapphire-Set Platinum Dress Watch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerVacheron & Constantin“Vacheron & Constantin, Genève”
Case MakerVerger Frères“case by Verger Frères, No. 7420”
Movement Number394420“movement No. 394420”
Case Number7420“case by Verger Frères, No. 7420”
Movement CaliberCal. 15“Cal. 15???”
Dial MaterialBrushed silver“Brushed silver with black Art Deco Arabic numerals”
Diameter42 mm“Diam. 42 mm.”
Movement FinishRhodium-plated“rhodium-plated, 18 jewels”

Visible details

  • Case band and bow are inset with continuous lines of sapphires
  • Dial features distinct stylized black Arabic numerals
  • Breguet hands are finished in blued steel
  • Crown is topped with a dark cabochon stone

Research qualifications

  • The auction description reports the dial as 'Reprinted'
  • The movement condition is noted as 'Oxidized' and 'Repair required'

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

VACHERON & CONSTANTIN SAPPHIRE-SET PLATINUM DRESS WATCH Vacheron & Constantin, Genève, movement No. 394420, case by Verger Frères, No. 7420. Made circa 1925. Very fine, elegant and rare, thin, Art Deco, platinum and sapphire keyless dress watch.

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record 67bbab0d9f

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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