Skip to content
The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Keyless dress watch

Vacheron & Constantin gold and enamel keyless dress watch

Partially verified

This Vacheron & Constantin keyless dress watch, numbered 389238, was completed in September 1922 and sold on 7 September 1931. The three-body, bassine pincée case features bezels, a pendant, and a bow decorated with black champlevé enamel. The case band and the spring-loaded back are engraved with scrolled foliage, with the coat of arms of Geneva engraved on the interior of the back. It is equipped with a 17-line gilt brass movement, which is fully engraved with foliage and features 18 jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, a cut bimetallic balance, and a Breguet balance spring. The two-tone silver dial includes applied gold Arabic numerals, subsidiary seconds, and gold bâton hands. The movement and case engraving are attributed to V. Martin. The object is referenced in L'Univers de Vacheron Constantin and La Montre Suisse 1945.

Front view of the Vacheron & Constantin gold and enamel pocket watch showing the silver dial and decorative bezel.
Front view of the Vacheron & Constantin gold and enamel pocket watch showing the silver dial and decorative bezel. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Pocket watch · Keyless dress watch
Maker / attribution
Vacheron & Constantin
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
94
Source-reported date
1922
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
389238

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Enamel Decoration

The watch is housed in a three-body case described as "bassine pincée." The external surfaces are detailed with black champlevé enamel, specifically applied to the bezels, the pendant, and the bow. In addition to the enamel work, the case band and the spring-loaded back feature detailed engravings of scrolled foliage.

The interior of the case back bears an engraving of the coat of arms of Geneva. The case is completed by a gold glazed cuvette, protecting the movement within. The engraving work on the case is attributed to V. Martin.

Evidence for this section
  • “Three body, massive "bassine pincée", the bezels, pendant and bow with black champleve enamelled decoration”
  • “the band and the spring loaded back engraved with scrolled foliage, the coat of arms of Geneva engraved inside the back. Gold glazed cuvette.”

Movement and Dial

The timepiece features a 17-line gilt brass movement, which is fully decorated with floral-inspired foliage engraving. Technical specifications include 18 jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, and a cut bimetallic balance paired with a Breguet balance spring. The movement is numbered on the front plate beneath the dial.

The dial is rendered in a two-tone silver finish with applied gold Arabic numerals and gold bâton hands. A subsidiary seconds dial is positioned at the 6 o'clock mark. The watch is signed on the dial and the case.

Evidence for this section
  • “M. 17"', gilt brass, fully engraved with foliage, 18 jewels, straight line lever escapement, cut bimetallic balance, Breguet balance spring.”
  • “Two tone silver with applied gold Arabic numerals and subsidiary seconds. Gold "bâtons" hands.”

Provenance and Documentation

The watch is formally documented in two horological publications. It appears in the book 'L'Univers de Vacheron Constantin', Geneva, specifically on pages 331 and 333. Additionally, it is illustrated by E. Jaquet and A. Chapuis in the 1945 publication 'La Montre Suisse', where it appears as plate 130.

These records corroborate the production details, including the completion date of September 1922 and the sale date in 1931.

Evidence for this section
  • “This watch is illustrated in l'Univers de Vacheron Constantin, Genève, pp. 331 and 333.”
  • “Illustrated by E. Jaquet & A. Chapuis in La Montre Suisse 1945, pi 130.”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific gold karat content of the case?
  • Are there additional records of V. Martin's work for Vacheron & Constantin during this period?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Vacheron & Constantin gold and enamel keyless dress watch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerVacheron & Constantin“Vacheron & Constantin Genève”
Movement Serial389238“No. 389238”
Case Serial245650“case No. 245650”
Date of CompletionSeptember 1922“completed in September 1922”
Date of Sale7 September 1931“sold on 7 September 1931”
EngraverV. Martin“Movement and case engraved by V. Martin.”
Diameter46 mm“Diam. 46 mm.”

Visible details

  • Black champlevé enamel on bezel, pendant, and bow
  • Two-tone silver dial with applied gold numerals
  • Visible subsidiary seconds register at 6 o'clock
  • Intricately engraved case band with scrolled foliage

Research qualifications

  • The exact gold karat content is not specified in the source
  • The source does not explicitly verify the material of the case beyond 'ct. gold'

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Vacheron & Constantin Genève, No. 389238, case No. 245650, completed in September 1922, sold on 7 September 1931. Movement and case engraved by V. Martin. Extremely rare ct. gold and enamel keyless dress watch with engraved movement.

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record 75cea425d7

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

Other keyless dress watch records