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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Self-winding wristwatch

Patek Philippe Ref. 3606/1 Wristwatch

Partially verified

This Patek Philippe Ref. 3606/1 is an 18K white gold self-winding wristwatch manufactured in 1973 and originally sold in 1974. The timepiece features a distinctive blue dial adorned with applied faceted baton indexes and corresponding white gold baton hands. It is housed in a two-body, polished and brushed 18K white gold case, notable for its hooded lugs and a snap-on case back protected by a sapphire crystal. The watch is presented on an integrated 18K white gold linen-textured bracelet, Powering the watch is the Calibre 28-255 movement, a rhodium-plated mechanism featuring 36 jewels and a 21K gold rotor segment. The movement carries the Seal of Geneva Quality Mark and utilizes a free-sprung Gyromax balance adjusted to heat, cold, isochronism, and five positions. The watch is documented by an Extract from the Archives provided by the maker.

Frontal view of the Patek Philippe Ref. 3606/1 in white gold with blue dial and integrated linen-textured bracelet.
Frontal view of the Patek Philippe Ref. 3606/1 in white gold with blue dial and integrated linen-textured bracelet. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Wristwatch · Self-winding wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Patek Philippe
Reference
3606/1
Catalogue / lot identifier
534
Source-reported date
1973
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
1283817

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Design

The Patek Philippe Ref. 3606/1 features a two-body, solid 18K white gold case that measures 33 mm in diameter and 7 mm in thickness. The exterior finishes consist of both polished and brushed surfaces, complemented by an integrated linen-textured bracelet also crafted from 18K white gold. The design incorporates hooded lugs, which conceal the spring bars and provide a seamless transition from the case to the bracelet.

The blue dial serves as a clean backdrop for the applied white gold faceted baton indexes, which match the white gold baton hands used for time indication. The assembly is protected by a sapphire crystal, and the case back is a snap-on configuration. The overall aesthetic emphasizes the integrated bracelet design, resulting in an approximate total length of 155 mm when secured.

Evidence for this section
  • “Two-body, solid, polished and brushed, hooded lugs, snap-on case back, sapphire crystal”
  • “integrated 18K white gold linen textured Patek Philippe bracelet”
  • “Blue with applied white gold faceted baton indexes”

Movement and Mechanical Specifications

The watch is driven by the Patek Philippe Calibre 28-255, an automatic movement that includes a 21K gold rotor segment to aid in efficient winding. The movement is rhodium-plated and It is also stamped with the Seal of Geneva Quality Mark.

Technically, the movement employs a lever escapement and a free-sprung Gyromax balance. It has been adjusted to isochronism, positions, and temperature fluctuations (heat and cold). To enhance reliability and chronometric performance, it features a shock absorber and a self-compensating flat balance spring. The movement contains 36 jewels, supporting the automatic winding system and the timekeeping gear train.

Evidence for this section
  • “255, stamped with the Seal of Geneva Quality Mark, rhodium-plated, fausses cotes decoration, 36 jewels”
  • “free-sprung Gyromax balance adjusted to heat, cold, isochronism and 5 positions”
  • “21K gold rotor segment”

Provenance and Authenticity

This specific timepiece is documented by the maker's records, having been manufactured in 1973 and sold on March 20th, 1974. The auction documentation confirms that the lot is accompanied by an Extract from the Archives. All major components of the watch, including the dial, case, and movement, are signed by Patek Philippe.

The serial numbers provided for the movement and case are documented as 1283817 and 527282, respectively.

Evidence for this section
  • “Dial, case and movement signed.”
  • “Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific historical production volume of the Ref. 3606/1 in white gold?
  • Does the linen texture on the integrated bracelet show signs of restorative refinishing or original factory condition?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Patek Philippe Ref. 3606/1 Wristwatch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerPatek Philippe“Patek Philippe, Genève”
Reference3606/1“Ref. 3606/1”
Movement Serial1283817“movement No. 1283817”
Case Serial527282“No. 527282”
Date of Manufacture1973“Made in 1973”
Jewel Count36 jewels“36 jewels”
Case Diameter33 mm“DIAM. 33 mm.”
Movement DecorationFausses cotes“fausses cotes decoration”

Visible details

  • Integrated linen-textured white gold bracelet
  • Blue dial with applied white gold baton indices
  • Hooded case lug construction
  • Calibre 28-255 movement with 21K gold rotor segment

Research qualifications

  • Movement requires an overhaul as per the auction report
  • Condition grade 2* suggests minor movement performance variation

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.