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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Glossary · Mechanism

Jewel count

The number of jewelled bearings and functional jewels in a movement.

Explanation

Jewel count is the number of synthetic ruby or sapphire bearings in a movement. A fully jewelled lever watch traditionally has 15–17; 21 jewels usually adds cap jewels and a jewelled barrel arbor. Counts above that often jewelled parts that did not need it — a marketing race in the mid-20th century produced watches advertised with 50 or even 100 'jewels' of no functional value. Jewel count alone says little about quality.

In the object catalogue

Catalogued objects whose own source record mentions “Jewel count”. The quoted line shows where; it is the seller’s or museum’s wording, not independent verification.