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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Dress watch

Patek Philippe Keyless Dress Watch

Partially verified

This Patek Philippe & Cie dress watch, produced circa 1928 in Geneva, Switzerland, is a keyless horological instrument housed in an 18K yellow gold case measuring 43 mm in diameter. The watch features a polished, three-body case design with a snap-on case back bearing an initial engraving of 'D'. The brushed silver dial is characterized by applied yellow gold Breguet numerals and is completed by yellow gold Breguet hands, with an outer minute track and a dedicated subsidiary seconds dial. Internally, the timepiece is powered by a rhodium-plated movement, identified as Caliber 17???, featuring 18 jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, and a cut bimetallic compensation balance with eight adjustments. The watch utilizes a blued steel flat balance spring and an index regulator. The dial, case, and movement are signed by Patek Philippe & Cie, confirming the manufacturer's authentication marks on all primary components.

Front view of the Patek Philippe dress watch showing the brushed silver dial, Breguet numerals, and subsidiary seconds.
Front view of the Patek Philippe dress watch showing the brushed silver dial, Breguet numerals, and subsidiary seconds. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Pocket watch · Dress watch
Maker / attribution
Patek Philippe & Cie
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
85
Source-reported date
circa 1928
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
809607

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Design

The watch features a polished three-body case crafted from 18K yellow gold. The back of the case is a snap-on type, personalized with the engraved initial 'D'.

The dial is finished in a brushed silver tone and is set with applied yellow gold Breguet numerals. Time is indicated by yellow gold Breguet hands, complemented by an outer minute track. A subsidiary seconds dial is located at the bottom of the dial surface, featuring a fine concentric texture.

The auction description reports the presence of slight scratches on both the case and the dial surface, which is described as patinated.

Evidence for this section
  • “Three-body, polished, snap-on case back with initial engraved D.”
  • “Brushed silver with applied yellow gold Breguet numerals, outer minute divisions, subsidiary seconds dial.”
  • “Dial, case and movement signed.”

Movement and Mechanics

The movement is a keyless caliber identified by the source as 17???, indicating the precise model remains under-specified in the provided data. The architecture includes rhodium plating and is embellished with fausses cotes finishing.

Technical features include a straight-line lever escapement and a cut bimetallic compensation balance adjusted in eight positions. A blued steel flat balance spring and an index regulator control the timekeeping regulation. The movement is comprised of 18 jewels.

Evidence for this section
  • “Cal. 17???, rhodium-plated, fausses cotes decoration, 18 jewels, straight-line lever escapement”
  • “cut bimetallic compensation balance with 8 adjustments, blued steel flat balance spring, index regulator.”
  • “Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense”

Signatures and Grading

The watch is signed by Patek Philippe & Cie on its primary components, specifically the dial, the interior of the case, and the movement.

The item was graded by the auction house as 'AA', which equates to a 'Very good' condition rating. The individual component grading lists the case and dial as 'Good', with specific notes on scratches and surface wear.

Evidence for this section
  • “Dial, case and movement signed.”
  • “Grading System Grade: AA Very good”
  • “Case: 3-8 Good Slightly scratched”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific full identification of the '17???' movement caliber?
  • Does the initial 'D' on the case back correspond to any documented provenance for this specific serial number?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Patek Philippe Keyless Dress Watch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerPatek Philippe & Cie“Patek Philippe & Cie”
Serial Number809607“No. 809607”
Case Number411145“case No. 411145”
Case Material18K yellow gold“18K yellow gold”
Diameter43 mm“Diam. 43 mm”
Movement Decorationfausses cotes“fausses cotes decoration”
Jewels18“18 jewels”

Visible details

  • Applied yellow gold Breguet numerals on the dial
  • Snap-on case back with an engraved 'D' initial
  • Subsidiary seconds dial with a circular guilloché pattern
  • Yellow gold Breguet-style hands

Research qualifications

  • Movement caliber is listed as 17??? in source documentation, indicating an incomplete identification
  • The auction description reports the watch as patinated and having slight scratches on the case and dial

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

PATEK PHI LIPPE DRESS WATCH, BREGUET NUMERALS YELLOW GOLD Patek Philippe & Cie, Geneva, Switzerland, No. 809607, case No. 411145. Made circa 1928. Fine and rare, thin, 18K yellow gold keyless dress watch with yellow gold Breguet numerals.

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record c72816a917

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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