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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Dress watch

Patek Philippe 18K Gold Keyless Dress Watch

Partially verified

This 18K gold keyless dress watch was manufactured by Patek, Philippe & Cie. circa 1930, with the movement numbered 819505 and the case numbered 417809. Produced for the retailer Freccero, the watch features a 45 mm diameter case with a three-piece, knife-edge, polished design. The two-tone, silvered dial is configured with a matte center and outer minute divisions on a matte ring, separated from seconds markings by a polished ring. Applied gold Arabic numerals at the quarters (3, 6, 9, 12) complement the gold feuille hands. The timepiece is powered by a 16 1/2''' caliber 21H nickel movement, containing 17 jewels. The movement utilizes a straight-line moustache lever escapement and a cut bimetallic compensation balance with a Breguet balance spring and micrometric spring regulator. The watch is signed on the dial, case, and movement, and is adjusted to five positions for temperature and isochronism.

Front view of the 18K gold Patek Philippe keyless dress watch with center seconds.
Front view of the 18K gold Patek Philippe keyless dress watch with center seconds. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Pocket watch · Dress watch
Maker / attribution
Patek, Philippe & Cie.
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
285
Source-reported date
circa 1930
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
819505

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial

The watch is housed in an 18K gold, three-piece case measuring 45 mm in diameter. It is distinguished by a polished, knife-edge design.

The dial is two-tone and silvered. It features applied gold Arabic numerals at the 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock positions, alongside painted indexes located on a shiny ring. The dial layout includes outer minute divisions positioned on a matte ring, which is distinct from the seconds divisions by a shiny ring. The center of the dial is finished with a matte surface. The watch is equipped with gold feuille-style hands for time indication.

The dial is signed by Patek, Philippe & Cie. and incorporates the retailer's name, Freccero.

Evidence for this section
  • “Three-piece, "knife-edge", polished.”
  • “Two-tone, silvered, with applied gold Arabic quarter numerals (3,6,9,12) and painted indexes on a shiny ring”
  • “outer minute divisions on a matte ring separated from the seconds divisions by a shiny ring, matte center. Gold "feuille" hands.”

Movement and Escapement

The movement is a 16 1/2''' caliber 21H nickel caliber, utilizing 17 jewels. It is designed with a straight-line moustache lever escapement. The regulation system consists of a cut bimetallic compensation balance equipped with a Breguet balance spring and a micrometric spring regulator.

The watch is adjusted for temperature, isochronism, and five positions. The movement is signed by Patek, Philippe & Cie. and bears the serial number 819505.

Evidence for this section
  • “37 mm. (16 1/2'''), cal. 21H, nickel, 17 jewels, adjusted to 5 positions, temperature and isochronism”
  • “straight line "moustache" lever escapement, cut bimetallic compensation balance with Breguet balance spring, mirometric spring regulator.”

Condition and Attribution

The watch is identified as having been made for the retailer Freccero circa 1930. The auction description assigns the piece a grade of 'A' and reports the case condition as '3 Good' and the movement condition as '3* Good'.

The auction description includes a recommendation for a mechanical overhaul to be performed at the expense of the purchaser. The notes specify that the combination of the case shape, the center seconds, and the specific dial configuration makes this an unusual example of a Patek Philippe watch.

Evidence for this section
  • “made for Freccero circa 1930.”
  • “Grading System Grade: A Good Case: 3 Good Movement: 3* Good Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense”
  • “The shape of the case, the center seconds and dial make this an unusual Patek Philippe watch.”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific historical relationship between Patek Philippe and the retailer Freccero in the 1930s?
  • Are there known archives indicating how many Patek Philippe watches of this specific caliber were produced with center seconds?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Patek Philippe 18K Gold Keyless Dress Watch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerPatek, Philippe & Cie., Genève“Patek, Philippe & Cie., Genève”
Movement Serial819505“No. 819505”
Case Serial417809“case No. 417809”
Datecirca 1930“circa 1930”
Case typeThree-piece, knife-edge, polished“Three-piece, "knife-edge", polished”
Movement caliber21H“cal. 21H”
Jewel count17 jewels“17 jewels”
EscapementStraight line moustache lever“straight line "moustache" lever escapement”
RetailerFreccero“made for Freccero”

Visible details

  • Applied gold Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9, 12
  • Polished knife-edge case profile
  • Gold feuille hands
  • Two-tone silvered dial with concentric rings

Research qualifications

  • The auction description recommends an overhaul at the buyer's expense
  • The extent of wear on the dial is summarized by a grading code of 3-5-01

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Patek, Philippe & Cie., Genève, No. 819505, case No. 417809, made for Freccero circa 1930. Very fine 18K gold keyless center seconds dress watch with special dial.

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record 0f7adbc326

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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