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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Dress watch

Patek Philippe Art Deco Dress Watch

Partially verified

This Patek Philippe & Cie keyless pocket watch, identified by movement number 808579 and case number 410124, was produced in the 1920s. The watch features an 18K yellow gold four-body, "demi-bassine" polished case, which includes a hinged gold cuvette. The dial is executed in a two-tone silver finish, accented with applied yellow gold Arabic numerals, painted indexes, an outer minute track, and a guilloche subsidiary seconds dial. Time is displayed via yellow gold Breguet-style hands. Internally, the watch is powered by a 38 mm (17''') nickel caliber movement. The mechanism is finished with "fausses côtes" decoration and includes 18 jewels, a straight-line counterpoised lever escapement, and a cut bimetallic compensation balance adjusted to 8 positions. It utilizes a blued steel Breguet balance-spring. The dial, case, and movement are all signed by the manufacturer, with the watch measuring 45 mm in diameter.

Front view of the 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe pocket watch, showing the two-tone silver dial, Breguet hands, and subsidiary seconds dial.
Front view of the 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe pocket watch, showing the two-tone silver dial, Breguet hands, and subsidiary seconds dial. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Pocket watch · Dress watch
Maker / attribution
Patek, Philippe & Cie
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
173
Source-reported date
1920s
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
410124

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Construction

The watch is housed in an 18K yellow gold, four-body, "demi-bassine" case that is fully polished. The case design incorporates a hinged gold cuvette to protect the movement. The dial is presented in a two-tone silver finish, providing a layered visual aesthetic.

Applied yellow gold Arabic numerals are used at the main hour positions, while painted indexes define the remaining markers. An outer minute track frames the dial, and a small subsidiary seconds dial is located at the 6 o'clock position, featuring a guilloche pattern. The time is read through yellow gold Breguet-style hands.

Evidence for this section
  • “Four-body, "demi-bassine", solid, polished, hinged gold cuvette.”
  • “Two-tone silver with applied yellow gold Arabic numerals and painted indexes, outer minute track, ?guilloche? subsidiary seconds dial.”

Movement and Escapement

The timepiece is powered by a 38 mm (17''') nickel caliber movement. The plates and bridges are decorated with "fausses côtes," and the assembly contains 18 jewels. The timekeeping is regulated by a straight-line counterpoised lever escapement, paired with a cut bimetallic compensation balance.

The balance assembly is adjusted to 8 positions for precision, utilizing a blued steel Breguet balance-spring to maintain accuracy.

Evidence for this section
  • “Cal. 38 mm. (17'''), nickel, "fausses côtes" decoration, 18 jewels, straight line counterpoised lever escapement, cut bimetallic compensation balance adjusted to 8 positions, blued steel Breguet balance-spring.”

Signatures and Grading

The components of the watch—the dial, the case, and the movement—are each signed by Patek, Philippe & Cie. These markings confirm the consistency of the components as original to the assembly.

The auction house has provided a condition report based on their internal grading system. The case is assigned a grade of 3, while the movement is graded as 3-6 and the dial as 3-5-01.

Evidence for this section
  • “Dial, case and movement signed.”
  • “Grading System Grade: AA Very good Case: 3 Good Movement: 3 - 6* Dial: 3 - 5 - 01”

Open research questions

  • What specific production year within the 1920s does movement 808579 correspond to?
  • What is the technical significance of the 8-position adjustment for this specific caliber?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Patek Philippe Art Deco Dress Watch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerPatek, Philippe & Cie“Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève”
Movement number808579“No. 808579”
Case number410124“case No. 410124”
Case material18K yellow gold“18K yellow gold”
Movement caliber38 mm (17''')“Cal. 38 mm. (17''')”
Jewel count18“18 jewels”
Case diameter45 mm“Diam. 45 mm.”
Movement finishingFausses côtes“fausses côtes" decoration”

Visible details

  • Applied yellow gold Arabic numerals at the 3, 6, and 12 positions
  • Yellow gold Breguet-style hands
  • Guilloche texture on the subsidiary seconds dial
  • Polished yellow gold case with a smooth finish

Research qualifications

  • The exact year of production within the 1920s is not specified
  • The specific type of metal used for the balance-spring is described as blued steel, but its exact alloy composition is not documented

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.