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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Dress watch

Cartier Montre Couteau

Partially verified

This Cartier Montre Couteau is a thin, 18K yellow gold keyless dress watch produced in the 1980s. The timepiece is accompanied by a long 18K gold chain and is signed by Cartier on the dial, case, and movement. It features a two-body, polished knife-edge case with a wide bezel and a winding crown set with a cabochon sapphire, surmounted by a triangular bow. The matte silver dial exhibits a sunburst engine-turned pattern, radial Roman numerals, an outer minute track, and blued steel Breguet hands. Internally, the watch is powered by a 16-line rhodium-plated movement featuring fausses cotes decoration and twenty jewels. The mechanism is equipped with a straight-line lever escapement, a free-sprung monometallic balance, a flat balance spring, and a shock absorber. The object measures 49 mm in diameter with a thickness of 6.3 mm.

Front view of the Cartier Montre Couteau in 18K yellow gold with its accompanying long chain.
Front view of the Cartier Montre Couteau in 18K yellow gold with its accompanying long chain. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Pocket watch · Dress watch
Maker / attribution
Cartier
Reference
3972
Catalogue / lot identifier
419
Source-reported date
1980s
Source-reported place
France
Source-reported serial
A107969

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Design

The timepiece is presented in a two-body, knife-edge case crafted from 18K yellow gold. The case design is characterized by a polished finish and a wide bezel, reflecting a minimalist aesthetic. A notable detail is the winding crown, which is set with a cabochon sapphire, and the assembly is topped with a triangular bow for attachment to the included 18K gold long chain.

The matte silver dial is finished with a sunburst engine-turned pattern. The time is indicated by radial Roman numerals and an outer minute track. The display is complemented by a set of blued steel Breguet-style hands, which contrast against the metallic surface of the dial. The dial is signed by the manufacturer.

Evidence for this section
  • “Two-body, knife-edge, polished, wide bezel, winding crown set with a cabochon sapphire, triangular bow.”
  • “Matte silver, sunburst engine-turned with radial Roman numerals, outer minute track. Blued steel Breguet hands.”

Movement and Escapement

The watch is powered by a rhodium-plated, 16-line movement. The finish on the plates consists of fausses cotes decoration. The movement is constructed with 20 jewels and incorporates a shock-absorbing system to protect the balance staff.

Technical features of the movement include a straight-line lever escapement. The timing regulation is handled by a free-sprung monometallic balance paired with a flat balance spring. The movement is signed, consistent with the case and dial.

Evidence for this section
  • “16???, rhodium-plated, fausses cotes decoration, 20 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, free-sprung monometallic balance, fl at balance spring, shock absorber.”
  • “Dial, case and movement signed.”

Condition and Attribution

The auction description provides a grading for the components of the watch. The overall grade for the piece is recorded as AA, which is interpreted as very good. The case is categorized as being in good condition with slight scratching observed, while the movement is noted as being in very good condition, with a recommendation that an overhaul be performed.

The watch is documented as a Cartier piece, produced in Paris during the 1980s. It carries case numbers 3972 and A107969.

Evidence for this section
  • “Grading System Grade: AA Very good Case: 3-8 Good Slightly scratched Movement: 2* Very good Overhaul recommended”
  • “Cartier, Paris, No. 3972, No. A107969. Made in the 1980s.”
  • “Accompanied by guarantee.”

Open research questions

  • What is the full identification of the 16-line movement calibre abbreviated as '16???' in the source?
  • Does the serial number A107969 correlate with any specific production batch or Cartier archival records?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Cartier Montre Couteau
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerCartier“Cartier, Paris”
Date1980s“Made in the 1980s.”
Case material18K yellow gold“18K yellow gold keyless dress watch”
Movement details20 jewels“20 jewels”
Diameter49 mm“Diam. 49 mm.”
Thickness6.3 mm“Thickness 6.3 mm.”
Movement decorationfausses cotes“fausses cotes decoration”

Visible details

  • Winding crown is set with a cabochon sapphire.
  • Dial features a sunburst engine-turned finish.
  • Chain is composed of elongated rectangular links joined by smaller circular rings.
  • Features a distinctive triangular bow at the top of the case.

Research qualifications

  • The movement reference is listed as '16???' suggesting the full reference number is unknown or unclear.
  • The auction house states an overhaul is recommended, but the exact mechanical condition beyond this recommendation is not specified.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

CARTIER MONTRE COUTEAU Cartier, Paris, No. 3972, No. A107969. Made in the 1980s. Very fine and elegant, very thin, 18K yellow gold keyless dress watch with a fine 18K gold Cartier long chain. Accompanied by guarantee.

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record ed1ea6a106

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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