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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Chronograph wristwatch

Cartier Yellow Gold Chronograph Wristwatch

Partially verified

This Cartier wristwatch, identified by reference number 8378, was manufactured during the 1950s. The watch features an 18K yellow gold two-body case measuring 35 mm in diameter and 10 mm in thickness. The case design includes concave and curved lugs, a rounded bezel, and a snap-on back with an inscription reading 'E.T.M.°L'. The matte silver dial is equipped with yellow baton and Arabic numerals, an outer track for minutes and 1/5th seconds, an internal blue spiral tachometer scale, and a subsidiary dial for a 30-minute register. The hands are fashioned in yellow gold in a feuille style. Power is provided by a rhodium-plated Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 285 movement. This movement features 17 jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, a bi-metallic balance, a self-compensating Breguet balance-spring, and an index regulator. The dial and case are signed by Cartier, while the movement is signed by Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Front view of the Cartier 18K yellow gold chronograph, showing the matte silver dial, spiral tachometer scale, and square chronograph pushers.
Front view of the Cartier 18K yellow gold chronograph, showing the matte silver dial, spiral tachometer scale, and square chronograph pushers. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Wristwatch · Chronograph wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Cartier
Reference
8378
Catalogue / lot identifier
218
Source-reported date
1950s
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
578271

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Features

The watch is housed in an 18K yellow gold two-body case, characterized by a polished finish and rounded bezel. The structural design incorporates concave and curved lugs, with a snap-on case back that features an engraving reading 'E.T.M.°L'.

The matte silver dial displays a blend of yellow baton and Arabic numerals. It includes an outer minutes and 1/5th seconds track, featuring Arabic 5-minute and 5-second markers. Functionally, the dial includes an internal blue spiral tachometer scale and a subsidiary dial for recording elapsed minutes up to 30. The hands are yellow gold in a feuille shape.

Evidence for this section
  • “C. Two-body, solid, polished, concave and curved lugs, rounded bezel, snap-on back engraved with ?E.T.M.°L?”
  • “D. Matte silver, yellow baton and Arabic indexes, outer minutes and 1/5th seconds track with Arabic 5-minute/seconds numerals, internal blue spiral tachometer scale, subsidiary dial for the 30 minute register. Yellow gold feuille hands.”

Movement and Escapement

Internally, the timepiece utilizes the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 285, which is rhodium-plated. The movement is configured with 17 jewels and employs a traditional straight-line lever escapement.

To maintain accuracy, the movement uses a bi-metallic balance paired with a self-compensating Breguet balance-spring. Regulation of the timekeeping rate is managed by an index regulator.

Evidence for this section
  • “M. Cal. 285, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, bi-metallic balance, self-compensating Breguet balance-spring, index regulator.”

Signatures and Condition

The object bears signatures from both Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre. The dial and case are signed by Cartier, while the movement is signed by Jaeger-LeCoultre,

The general grading assigned by the auction house for the movement is a 3*, while the case and dial are both rated as 3.

Evidence for this section
  • “Dial and case signed Cartier, movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre.”
  • “Movement: 3* Good Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense”
  • “Case: 3 Good”
  • “Dial: 3-01 Good”

Open research questions

  • What is the historical significance of the 'E.T.M.°L' engraving on the case back?
  • Are there records of Cartier utilizing Jaeger-LeCoultre movements for reference 8378 in the 1950s?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Cartier Yellow Gold Chronograph Wristwatch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Case Number578271“case No. 578271”
Reference Number8378“Ref. No 8378”
Movement CalibreJaeger-LeCoultre 285“M. Cal. 285”
Material18K yellow gold“18K yellow gold wristwatch”
Diameter35 mm“Diam. 35 mm.”
Jewel count17“17 jewels”
Case InscriptionE.T.M.°L“snap-on back engraved with ?E.T.M.°L?”

Visible details

  • Square chronograph pushers located on the side of the case
  • Internal blue spiral-shaped tachometer scale on dial
  • Inscription 'E.T.M.°L' visible on the snap-on case back
  • Subsidiary dial positioned for a 30-minute register

Research qualifications

  • The auction description recommends an overhaul for the movement
  • The specific nature and origin of the 'E.T.M.°L' inscription on the case back are not defined in the source

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Yellow Gold Chronograph Cartier, 'Chronograph', case No. 578271, Ref. No 8378. Made in the 1950s. Very fine and rare 18K yellow gold wristwatch with square button chronograph, register and tachometer.

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record e00c7d9342

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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