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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Wristwatch

Vacheron & Constantin Stainless Steel Wristwatch

Partially verified

This Vacheron & Constantin wristwatch, produced circa 1950, is housed in a two-body stainless steel case measuring 32 mm in diameter and 9 mm in thickness. The watch features a water-resistant construction with a stepped bezel, a screwed-down case back, and concave lugs, complemented by an internal dust-protecting cap. Powering the timepiece is the Calibre 458/3B, a rhodium-plated movement finished with fausses cotes decoration. The movement incorporates 17 jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, and a beryllium balance adjusted to temperatures. It also includes a shock absorber, a self-compensating Breguet balance-spring, and a micrometer regulator. The two-tone silvered dial displays applied gold lapidated indexes and Arabic numerals, with subsidiary seconds at the six o'clock position. The time is indicated by blued steel baton hands. The dial, case, and movement are signed by the maker.

Front view of the Vacheron & Constantin stainless steel wristwatch with two-tone dial and subsidiary seconds.
Front view of the Vacheron & Constantin stainless steel wristwatch with two-tone dial and subsidiary seconds. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Wristwatch · Wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Vacheron & Constantin
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
253
Source-reported date
circa 1950
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
Movement No. 498268, Case No. 321662

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial

The watch is presented in a two-body stainless steel case that exhibits both polished and brushed finishes. The design incorporates a stepped bezel and a screwed-down case back, which the source identifies as water-resistant. The exterior includes concave lugs and an internal dust-protecting cap to secure the movement.

The dial is finished in a two-tone silvered tone, featuring applied gold lapidated indexes and Arabic numerals to mark the hours. A subsidiary seconds register is positioned at six o'clock. The time is read via blued steel baton hands that contrast against the dial surface.

Evidence for this section
  • “Two-body, polished and brushed, stepped bezel, dust protecting cap, screwed down case back, concave lugs.”
  • “Two-tone silvered with applied gold lapidated indexes and Arabic numerals, subsidiary seconds. Blued steel baton hands.”

Movement and Escapement

The timepiece is driven by the Vacheron & Constantin Calibre 458/3B. This rhodium-plated movement is embellished with fausses cotes decoration and is equipped with 17 jewels. It utilizes a straight-line lever escapement for timekeeping.

Precision is maintained through a beryllium balance adjusted to temperatures, paired with a self-compensating Breguet balance-spring. The movement also features a shock absorber and a micrometer regulator to facilitate accurate timing adjustments.

Evidence for this section
  • “Cal. 458/3B, rhodium-plated, fausses cotes decoration, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, beryllium balance adjusted to temperatures, shock absorber, self compensating Breguet balance-spring, micrometer regulator.”

Condition and Attribution

The auction description reports the object is from circa 1950. The grading system provided assigns an 'AA' overall grade, with the case and dial categorized as 'Good'.

The documentation states that the dial, case, and movement are signed by Vacheron & Constantin. The source emphasizes that stainless steel cases for the company from this period are uncommon compared to their production of precious metal examples.

Evidence for this section
  • “Made circa 1950.”
  • “Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense”
  • “Dial, case and movement signed.”
  • “Vacheron Constantin stainless steel wristwatches are rare, the company having tended to produce cases in precious metals”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific production date within the circa 1950 window?
  • How many units of the Calibre 458/3B were produced in stainless steel cases?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Vacheron & Constantin Stainless Steel Wristwatch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Movement Number498268“movement No. 498268”
Case Number321662“case No. 321662”
Case MaterialStainless steel“stainless steel wristwatch”
Movement CalibreCal. 458/3B“Cal. 458/3B”
Jewel Count17“17 jewels”
Dial FinishTwo-tone silvered“Two-tone silvered with applied gold lapidated indexes”
Dimensions32 mm diameter, 9 mm thickness“Diam. 32 mm. Thickness: 9 mm.”

Visible details

  • Two-tone silvered dial with Arabic numerals and gold indices
  • Blued steel baton hands visible
  • Concave lugs attached to the polished and brushed case

Research qualifications

  • The auction description reports that an overhaul is recommended
  • The movement condition is reported as 'Good' but the source notes it specifically as 3*

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.