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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch

Patek Philippe Reference 3990P Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

Partially verified

This Patek Philippe Reference 3990P is an astronomic wristwatch featuring a perpetual calendar, moon phase display, and a column-wheel chronograph. Crafted in platinum, the watch is notable for its diamond-set bezel containing 40 tapered, baguette-shaped diamonds. The black dial includes applied baton and square diamond hour markers, alongside subsidiary dials for the 24-hour cycle, constant seconds, 30-minute register, and leap-year indication. The watch is powered by the manual-wind Caliber CH 27-70 Q, which is rhodium-plated and features the Seal of Geneva. It is equipped with a sapphire crystal case back and accompanied by a platinum buckle, an additional solid case back, and the original Certificate of Origin. Produced in limited numbers, this model represents a variant of the Reference 3970 platform, distinguished by its gem-set bezel. The watch measures 36 mm in diameter and 13 mm in thickness.

Front view of the Patek Philippe 3990P wristwatch alongside its original Certificate of Origin.
Front view of the Patek Philippe 3990P wristwatch alongside its original Certificate of Origin. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Wristwatch · Perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Patek Philippe
Reference
3990P
Catalogue / lot identifier
185
Source-reported date
circa 2000
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
4197927

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial

The watch is housed in a two-body platinum case with a polished finish and fluted lugs. A defining feature is the bezel, which is set with 40 tapered, baguette-shaped diamonds described as Top Wesselton quality. The case is water-resistant and includes a screwed-down transparent sapphire crystal case back, allowing view of the movement. An additional solid platinum case back is provided with the lot.

The dial is black and features both baton and square diamond hour markers. It is arranged with a perpetual calendar system, displaying the days of the week, months, and moon phases through apertures, while the date and leap year are tracked via subsidiary dials. Chronograph functionality is provided by a 30-minute register and a central seconds hand, complemented by an outer 1/5th second scale.

Evidence for this section
  • “bezel set with diamonds, fluted lugs, sapphire crystals”
  • “Black with baton and square diamond hour markers”
  • “set with 40 tapered, baguette-shaped Top Wesselton quality diamonds with an approx. carat weight of 2.80 ct”

Movement and Mechanism

The timepiece is powered by the manual-wound Caliber CH 27-70 Q, a movement based on the Lemania ebauche. It is rhodium-plated and finished with fausses cotes decoration. The movement incorporates 24 jewels and a straight-line lever escapement. The Glucydur Gyromax balance is adjusted for heat, cold, isochronism, and 8 positions, utilizing a self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring.

The chronograph mechanism employs a column wheel for function control. The perpetual calendar system is engineered to remain accurate until the year 2100 without manual adjustment. The movement is officially stamped with the Seal of Geneva Quality Mark, acknowledging its technical construction and finish standards.

Evidence for this section
  • “Cal. CH27-70 Q, stamped with the Seal of Geneva Quality Mark”
  • “rhodium-plated, fausses cotes decoration, 24 jewels, straight line lever escapement”
  • “chronograph mechanism features a column wheel for a most reliable and precise performance”

Provenance and Documentation

The watch is accompanied by its fitted box and the original Certificate of Origin. It also includes a setting pin for the calendar functions and an additional platinum case back. According to the provided notes, this reference is no longer in production and was manufactured in limited quantities.

Condition reports for the watch are provided by the auction house, which grades the case as very good and the movement and dial as 'as new' (1). The hands are noted as original to the watch.

Evidence for this section
  • “Accompanied by a fitted box, an additional platinum case back, setting pin and Certificate of Origin”
  • “This reference is no longer in production”
  • “Case: 2 Very good Movement: 1 As new Dial: 1-01 As new”

Open research questions

  • Clarify the discrepancy between the platinum (3990P) reference and the auction house note claiming the item is a 'white gold example'.
  • Verify the total production numbers for the reference 3990 across all metals.

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Patek Philippe Reference 3990P Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Movement Number3046782“movement No. 3046782”
Case Number4197927“case No 4197927”
Diamond specifications40 tapered, baguette-shaped diamonds“set with 40 tapered, baguette-shaped Top Wesselton quality diamonds”
Movement CaliberCH 27-70 Q“Cal. CH27-70 Q”
SealSeal of Geneva Quality Mark“stamped with the Seal of Geneva Quality Mark”
Case Diameter36 mm“Diam. 36 mm.”
Case Thickness13 mm“Thickness 13 mm.”

Visible details

  • Bezel set with 40 baguette-shaped diamonds
  • Black dial with diamond hour markers
  • Subsidiary dials for perpetual calendar and chronograph functions
  • Transparent sapphire crystal case back

Research qualifications

  • The source description contains a claim that this is the 'first white gold example' offered at auction, which appears contradictory to its platinum designation
  • The source includes notes suggesting only three other examples have been auctioned, a claim that cannot be independently verified here

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Platinum Ref. 3990 Patek Philippe, Genève, movement No. 3046782, case No 4197927, Ref. 3990P. Made circa 2000. Very fine and important, astronomic, water-resistant, platinum and diamonds wristwatch with round button chronograph, register, perpetual calendar, moon phases, with sapphire crystal back and a platinum Patek Philippe buckle. Accompanied by a fitted box, an additional platinum case back, setting pin and Certificate of Origin.

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record b26dfe6b5d

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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