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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Pocket watch

Vacheron & Constantin 18ct Gold Amethyst-Set Watch

Partially verified

This Vacheron & Constantin watch, identified by serial number 8323, dates to the first part of the nineteenth century and is attributed to Geneva. The object is a fine 18-carat two-coloured gold piece heavily decorated with amethysts. The case is a double-body 'forme quatre baguettes fermée' design, featuring an engine-turned band and chased bezels set with amethysts. The cover incorporates an eccentric dial aperture and is adorned with a finely chased gold bouquet of flowers set with amethysts, all on an amati ground. The reverse of the case features similarly chased floral decoration on an amati ground with further amethyst settings. The dial itself is engine-turned gold with a small eccentric polished chapter ring and blued steel Breguet hands. Internally, the watch houses a gilded brass full-plate movement featuring cylindrical pillars, a fusee and chain drive, and a verge escapement with a plain brass three-armed balance.

View of the watch case cover, featuring chased gold floral decoration and inset stones against an amati ground.
View of the watch case cover, featuring chased gold floral decoration and inset stones against an amati ground. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Pocket watch · Pocket watch
Maker / attribution
Vacheron & Constantin
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
200
Source-reported date
first part of the XIXth. century
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
8323

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Construction

The timepiece is housed in a double-body 'forme quatre baguettes fermée' case crafted from 18-carat two-coloured gold. The case construction includes an engine-turned band and bezels finished with chased metalwork and inset amethysts. The exterior of the cover features a chased floral bouquet set with amethysts against an amati ground, with a corresponding decorative motif on the back of the case.

The dial is composed of engine-turned gold. It is configured with an eccentric polished chapter ring for the Roman numerals, which provides contrast to the remainder of the dial surface. The watch is equipped with blued steel Breguet-style hands.

Evidence for this section
  • “C. Double body "forme quatre baguettes fermée", with engine-turned band, amethyst set chased bezels”
  • “D. Gold engine-turned with Roman numerals on a small eccentric polished chapter.”

Movement and Escapement

The watch is powered by a gilt brass full-plate movement. The power delivery system is a traditional fusee and chain arrangement. The watch utilizes a verge escapement, which operates in conjunction with a plain brass three-armed balance. The balance is equipped with a flat balance spring and a ruby endstone.

The back plate of the movement carries the signature of the makers. The overall condition of the movement is described by the auction house as very good.

Evidence for this section
  • “M. GiIt brass full plate, with cylindrical pillars, fusee and chain, verge escapement with plain brass three armed balance”
  • “Signed on the back plate. In very good condition.”

Provenance and Historical Context

Attributed to the first part of the nineteenth century, the watch is identified by the serial number 8323. The auction documentation suggests that this particular example is representative of the early production output of the association between the founders, Vacheron and Constantin.

The watch is presented here as part of lot 200. No further provenance or history is provided regarding previous ownership or literary references.

Evidence for this section
  • “first part of the XIXth. century.”
  • “This watch is certainly one of the very first watches produced after the association between Vacheron and Constantin.”

Open research questions

  • Does the serial number 8323 confirm a production date within the first decade of the Vacheron & Constantin partnership?
  • Are the stones set in the case truly amethysts, given the reddish appearance in the provided images?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Vacheron & Constantin 18ct Gold Amethyst-Set Watch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerVacheron & Constantin, Genève“Vacheron & Constantin, Genève”
Serial Number8323“No. 8323”
Material18ct two-coloured gold and amethysts“Fine 18 ct. two coloured gold watch set with amethysts.”
Diameter39mm“Diam. 39mm.”
Movement TypeGilt brass full plate“M. GiIt brass full plate”
EscapementVerge escapement“verge escapement with plain brass three armed balance”
Case DesignDouble body forme quatre baguettes fermée“C. Double body "forme quatre baguettes fermée”

Visible details

  • Cover displays a bouquet of chased flowers and amethysts
  • Dial is engine-turned with a small eccentric chapter
  • Case perimeter is decorated with set amethysts

Research qualifications

  • The auction description refers to the stones as amethysts, but visual inspection suggests a red hue consistent with garnets or rubies
  • The dating to the 'first part of the XIXth. century' is an estimate provided by the auction house

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Vacheron & Constantin, Genève, No. 8323, first part of the XIXth. century. Fine 18 ct. two coloured gold watch set with amethysts.

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record 30ea41b473

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Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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