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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Chronograph

Ulysse Nardin Keyless Chronograph

Partially verified

This Ulysse Nardin pocket watch, serial number 205463, dates to approximately 1935. It is a keyless chronograph housed in a four-body, polished "bassine" stainless steel case measuring 51 mm in diameter. The dial is finished in matte silver and features applied Breguet numerals, with outer minute and seconds tracks including five-minute Arabic markers. Additional dial features include a 30-minute register, a subsidiary sunk seconds dial, and an up-and-down power reserve indicator positioned below the 12 o'clock hour. The watch displays blued steel "spade" hands for hours and minutes. Internally, the 18''' (41 mm) movement is rhodium-plated with "fausses côtes" decoration and 21 jewels. The mechanism utilizes a straight-line lever escapement, a monometallic balance with a self-compensating blued steel Breguet balance spring, and a spring-loaded micrometric regulator. The object is signed on the dial, case, and movement.

Front view of the Ulysse Nardin chronograph showing the matte silver dial, Breguet numerals, and up-and-down indicator.
Front view of the Ulysse Nardin chronograph showing the matte silver dial, Breguet numerals, and up-and-down indicator. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Pocket watch · Chronograph
Maker / attribution
Ulysse Nardin
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
242
Source-reported date
circa 1935
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
205463

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial

The watch is enclosed in a four-body stainless steel case with a polished "bassine" design. It incorporates a snap-on silver cuvette, which separates the internal movement from the case back. The crown and bow are integrated into the case structure to facilitate keyless winding and chronograph operation.

The matte silver dial is appointed with Breguet numerals. Time and chronometric data are displayed via an outer minute and seconds track, which includes five-minute Arabic increments. Subsidiary dials consist of a sunk seconds display and a 30-minute chronograph register. An up-and-down power reserve indicator is located beneath the 12 o'clock numeral. The time is indicated by blued steel hands in a "spade" style.

Evidence for this section
  • “Four-body, "bassine", polished, snap-on silver cuvette.”
  • “Silver, matte, Breguet numerals, outer minute and seconds rings with five-minute Arabic markers, subsidiary sunk seconds, up-and-down indicator below 12 o'clock.”

Movement and Escapement

The movement measures 18 lignes (41 mm) and features a rhodiumed finish accented with "fausses côtes" decoration. It is constructed with 21 jewels to minimize friction across the moving parts. The assembly is designed with a straight-line lever escapement and includes a spring-loaded micrometric regulator for precise adjustments.

The balance wheel is monometallic and operates in conjunction with a self-compensating blued steel Breguet balance spring. This configuration serves to maintain consistent oscillation rates throughout the functioning of the timekeeping mechanism.

Evidence for this section
  • “41 mm (18'''), rhodiumed, "fausses côtes" decoration, 21 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance with self-compensating blued steel Breguet balance spring, spring-loaded micrometric regulator.”

Signatures and Condition

The watch is signed by the manufacturer, Ulysse Nardin, on the dial, the case, and the movement.

The auction description provides a grading system for the watch's components, assigning a Grade A to the object overall, with individual grades of 3 for the case, movement, and dial.

Evidence for this section
  • “Signed on dial, case and movement.”
  • “Grading System Grade: A Good Case: 3 Good Movement: 3* Good Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense Dial: 3 - 6 - 01”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific functionality of the '3 - 6 - 01' grade reported for the dial?
  • Are there additional markings or hallmarks on the inside of the case back that verify the movement or date beyond the serial number provided?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Ulysse Nardin Keyless Chronograph
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerUlysse Nardin“Ulysse Nardin, Locle, Suisse”
Serial Number205463“No. 205463”
Datecirca 1935“circa 1935”
Case MaterialStainless steel“Fine stainless steel keyless chronograph watch”
Case TypeBassine“Four-body, "bassine", polished, snap-on silver cuvette”
Movement DecorationFausses côtes“fausses côtes" decoration”
Jewel Count21 jewels“21 jewels”
Diameter51 mm“Diam. 51 mm.”

Visible details

  • Applied black Breguet numerals on a silver matte dial
  • Up-and-down power reserve indicator below the 12 o'clock position
  • Polished stainless steel bow and crown
  • Blued steel chronograph and timekeeping hands

Research qualifications

  • The auction description indicates that an overhaul is recommended
  • The exact nature of the '3 - 6 - 01' grading for the dial is not defined by the source

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.