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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Manual-wind wristwatch

Patek Philippe Ellipse d'Or Reference 3848

Partially verified

This Patek Philippe Ellipse d'Or, reference 3848, is an 18K yellow gold wristwatch produced circa 1990. The timepiece features an oval three-body case measuring 27 by 32 millimeters with a thickness of 5.5 millimeters, characterized by its concealed lugs and a sapphire crystal. The satiné blue dial displays applied yellow gold baton indexes accompanied by matching yellow gold baton hands. Power is provided by the manual-wind Caliber 215 movement, which is rhodium-plated, features fausses cotes decoration, and is stamped with the Seal of Geneva Quality Mark. The movement includes 18 jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, and a Gyromax balance adjusted to heat, cold, isochronism, and five positions. The watch is presented with a fitted box, a certificate of origin, and service documentation from May 2009. The dial, case, and movement are signed by the manufacturer.

Front view of the Patek Philippe Ellipse d'Or ref. 3848 showing the blue dial, yellow gold case, leather strap, fitted case, and documentation.
Front view of the Patek Philippe Ellipse d'Or ref. 3848 showing the blue dial, yellow gold case, leather strap, fitted case, and documentation. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Wristwatch · Manual-wind wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Patek Philippe
Reference
3848
Catalogue / lot identifier
285
Source-reported date
circa 1990
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
2840765

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Design

The three-body construction is crafted from 18K yellow gold and incorporates both polished and brushed finishes to add textural contrast. A key design element is the use of concealed lugs, which allows the leather strap to integrate seamlessly beneath the case, emphasizing the geometric silhouette of the watch.

The dial is rendered in a satiné blue finish, providing a striking contrast against the yellow gold case. The minimalist aesthetic is maintained through the application of simple, slender yellow gold baton indexes and matching baton-style hands. The dial, which is protected by a sapphire crystal, is signed by Patek Philippe and includes a 'SWISS' marking at the bottom edge.

The case is noted for its slim profile, measuring only 5.5 millimeters in thickness, which is a hallmark of the Ellipse series. All elements of the case, including the crown and the integrated strap connection, are designed to maintain the clean, rounded lines of the oval form.

Evidence for this section
  • “Three-body, solid, polished and brushed, concealed lugs, sapphire crystal.”
  • “Satiné blue with applied yellow gold baton indexes.”
  • “Dim. 27 x 32 mm. Thickness 5.5 mm”

Movement and Mechanical Specifications

The watch is powered by the Caliber 215, a manual-wind movement renowned for its thin profile and reliability. The movement is finished with rhodium plating and features traditional fausses cotes decoration on the bridges. It operates with 18 jewels and is equipped with a straight-line lever escapement.

The balance is adjusted for heat, cold, isochronism, and five positions to ensure stability. Additionally, the movement includes a shock absorber and a self-compensating free-sprung flat balance spring, which further contributes to its chronological consistency.

Evidence for this section
  • “M. Cal. 215, rhodium-plated, fausses cotes decoration, 18 jewels, stamped with the Seal of Geneva Quality Mark”
  • “Gyromax balance adjusted to heat, cold, isochronism and 5 positions, shock absorber, self compensating free-sprung flat balance spring.”

Provenance and Documentation

The object is accompanied by several original documents and accessories that support its history. These include a fitted box and a certificate of origin. Furthermore, the records provided for this lot include a service paper dated May 2009, which serves as a point of reference for the watch’s maintenance history.

The auction description reports the watch to be in good condition, assigning a grade of 'AA' with specific sub-grades for the case, movement, and dial. The watch has been thoroughly inspected, and all three primary components—the dial, the case, and the movement—are documented as being signed by the manufacturer, confirming their original status.

Evidence for this section
  • “Accompanied by a fitted box, certificate of origin and service paper dated May,2009.”
  • “Grading System Grade: AA Very good Case: 3 Good Movement: 2 Very good Dial: 2-01 Very good”
  • “Dial, case and movement signed.”

Open research questions

  • What are the specific documented intervals for the watch's service history beyond the 2009 paper?
  • Are there variations in the blue dial finish for the reference 3848 during the circa 1990 production window?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Patek Philippe Ellipse d'Or Reference 3848
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Movement Number1336549“movement No. 1336549”
Case Number2840765“case No. 2840765”
Reference3848“Ref. 3848”
Case Material18K Yellow Gold“18K yellow gold wristwatch”
Dimensions27 x 32 mm“Dim. 27 x 32 mm”
MovementCal. 215“M. Cal. 215”
EscapementStraight-line lever“straight-line lever escapement”
CertificationSeal of Geneva“stamped with the Seal of Geneva Quality Mark”
Included AccessoriesFitted box, certificate of origin, service paper“Accompanied by a fitted box, certificate of origin and service paper dated May,2009.”

Visible details

  • Case features polished and brushed surfaces
  • Dial has applied gold baton indexes
  • Case utilizes concealed lugs
  • Movement includes shock absorber system

Research qualifications

  • Movement performance is not verified beyond the auction house grading
  • The service history outside of the cited 2009 document is unconfirmed

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

PP Ref 3848 Golden ellipse Patek Philippe, Genève, "Ellipse d'Or", movement No. 1336549, case No. 2840765, Ref. 3848. Made circa 1990. Fine and elegant, oval, 18K yellow gold wristwatch. Accompanied by a fitted box, certificate of origin and service paper dated May,2009.

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record 736459e1bb

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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