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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Keyless pocket watch

Patek Philippe & Cie. Keyless Pocket Watch

Partially verified

This 18-karat gold keyless pocket watch, produced by Patek Philippe & Cie. in 1893, is identified by movement and case number 98060. Sold on June 8, 1894, the watch was made for the retailer Tiffany & Co. in New York. The timepiece is housed in a four-body, polished "demi-bassine" case and features a hinged gold cuvette. The white enamel dial is signed by Tiffany and incorporates Breguet numerals, an outer minute track, and a recessed subsidiary seconds dial, complemented by blued steel spade hands. The movement is a 16-ligne nickel-plated caliber featuring "fausses côtes" decoration and 18 jewels. Technical features include a counterpoised straight-line lever escapement, a cut bimetallic balance, and a Breguet balance spring. The watch is signed "Tiffany" on the dial, case, and movement. The auction description reports the watch is in very good condition with a diameter of 43 mm.

Front view of the 18-karat gold pocket watch showing the white enamel dial with Breguet numerals and Tiffany & Co. signature.
Front view of the 18-karat gold pocket watch showing the white enamel dial with Breguet numerals and Tiffany & Co. signature. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Pocket watch · Keyless pocket watch
Maker / attribution
Patek Philippe & Cie.
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
537
Source-reported date
1893
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
98060

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial

The watch is encased in a polished, four-body, "demi-bassine" housing crafted from 18-karat gold. The exterior construction includes a hinged gold cuvette, a feature that protects the underlying movement. The diameter of the case is 43 mm.

The dial is rendered in white enamel and is signed by the retailer Tiffany & Co., New York. It features Breguet-style numerals for the hours and includes an outer ring for minute tracking. A sunken subsidiary seconds dial is positioned at the base of the dial. The time is displayed via blued steel spade-shaped hands.

Evidence for this section
  • “Four body, massive, "demi-bassine" polished.”
  • “Hinged gold cuvette.”
  • “White enamel with Breguet numerals, outer minute ring and sunk subdiary seconds.”
  • “Blued steel "spade" hands.”

Movement and Escapement

The movement is a 16-ligne caliber with nickel plating and "fausses côtes" decoration. It is configured with 18 jewels. The mechanical architecture incorporates a counterpoised straight-line lever escapement designed to facilitate accurate timekeeping.

Regulation is managed by a cut bimetallic balance, paired with a Breguet-style balance spring, which allows for adjustments to account for temperature fluctuations. The movement is signed by the retailer, Tiffany.

Evidence for this section
  • “16"', nickel plated, "fausses côtes" decoration, 18 jewels”
  • “counterpoised straight line lever escapement, cut bimetallic balance, Breguet balance spring.”

Signatures and Provenance

This watch, numbered 98060, was manufactured by Patek Philippe & Cie. in Geneva in 1893. It was specifically produced for the American retailer Tiffany & Co. and was sold on June 8, 1894. The signature "Tiffany" is found on the dial, the movement, and the case.

Documentation accompanying the object includes a certificate confirming that it was manufactured by Patek Philippe for Tiffany. The auction house notes that the watch is in very good condition.

Evidence for this section
  • “Patek Philippe & Cie., Genève, No. 98060”
  • “made for Tiffany, New-York, in 1893, sold on 8 June 1894.”
  • “Signed "Tiffany" on the dial, case and movement.”
  • “With certificate attesting this watch was made by Patek Philippe for Tiffany.”

Open research questions

  • What is the complete chain of ownership for this watch from the 1894 sale to the present day?
  • Are there archival records at Patek Philippe that specify the final destination of this watch within the Tiffany & Co. inventory in 1894?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Patek Philippe & Cie. Keyless Pocket Watch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerPatek Philippe & Cie.“Patek Philippe & Cie., Genève”
Serial Number98060“No. 98060”
Case typeFour body, demi-bassine“Four body, massive, "demi-bassine" polished.”
Movement finishNickel plated with fausses côtes decoration“nickel plated, "fausses côtes" decoration”
Jewel count18“18 jewels”
Dial signatureTiffany“Signed "Tiffany" on the dial”
Date of manufacture1893“made for Tiffany, New-York, in 1893”
Date of sale8 June 1894“sold on 8 June 1894”

Visible details

  • Case is a polished 'demi-bassine' design
  • Dial features Breguet numerals and sunken subsidiary seconds dial
  • Dial signed 'Tiffany & Co. New-York'
  • Hands are blued steel spade style

Research qualifications

  • The exact history of ownership between the 1894 sale and the current auction is not stated.
  • The specific technical performance of the movement is not detailed beyond the reported condition.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Patek Philippe & Cie., Genève, No. 98060, case No. 98060, made for Tiffany, New-York, in 1893, sold on 8 June 1894. Fine 18 ct. gold keyless watch.

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record 2e239d1b51

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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