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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Cylindrical hairspring chronometer wristwatch

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC.2

Partially verified

The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC.2 is a chronometer wristwatch cased in 18k rose gold measuring 42.30 mm by 9.43 mm, offered by Phillips PERPETUAL in London. The movement, composed of 230 components, features an in-house cylindrical hairspring operating without a tourbillon, achieving COSC certification. The open dial showcases six nickel-silver bridges with sandblasted matte surfaces and galvanic coating. Displays include an outer peripheral minute ring, central minutes, a suspended sub-dial for small seconds at six o'clock, an off-centre sub-dial for hours, a power reserve indicator near two o'clock, and a hacking seconds stopwork mechanism.

Front three-quarter view of the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC.2 in 18k rose gold
Front three-quarter view of the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC.2 in 18k rose gold — Phillips PERPETUAL. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
perpetual.phillips.com
Category
Wristwatch · Cylindrical hairspring chronometer wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Ferdinand Berthoud
Reference
FB 3SPC.2
Catalogue / lot identifier
Source URL identifies the listing
Source-reported date
2023
Country
Switzerland

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Identity and Case Construction

The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre reference FB 3SPC.2 is a chronometer wristwatch presented here in 18k rose gold, dating to 2023. According to source documentation, the case measures 42.30 mm by 9.43 mm. Visual inspection reveals an open dial surrounded by a stepped bezel, paired with a distinct fluted knurled crown in rose gold with a geometric knurling pattern.

The case architecture reportedly incorporates a small sapphire crystal window embedded in the caseband at 9 o'clock offering a side view of the hairspring in motion. However, because only the front three-quarter view is visually available, this lateral window and the rear sapphire caseback are not visible in the provided image.

Evidence for this section
  • “A 2023 Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC.2 in 18k rose gold”
  • “features a 42.30mm × 9.43mm case crafted from 18k white or pink gold”
  • “Fluted knurled crown in rose gold with geometric knurling pattern”
  • “a small sapphire crystal window embedded in the caseband at nine o’clock offers a side view of the hairspring in motion”

Dial Architecture and Display

Rather than utilizing a conventional dial, the watch’s display architecture comprises six nickel-silver bridges that form the mainplate of the movement. Direct visual observation reveals grey galvanic-coated matte bridges, blued screws, and exposed geartrain components, alongside an off-centre black subdial positioned at the right with faceted gold hands.

The dial displays include an outer black chapter ring with printed white numerals marking minutes, a suspended small seconds sub-dial at 6 o'clock, and a power reserve indicator positioned near 2 o'clock. Source text notes that the faceted, skeletonized hands are crafted from 18k gold and take inspiration from a 1785 Ferdinand Berthoud astronomical regulator clock.

Evidence for this section
  • “The watch’s “dial” comprises six nickel-silver bridges that form the mainplate of the movement”
  • “Open dial architecture revealing grey galvanic-coated matte bridges, blued screws, and exposed geartrain components”
  • “Off-centre black subdial positioned at the right with faceted gold hands”
  • “Outer black chapter ring with printed white numerals marking minutes”
  • “The faceted, skeletonized hands—crafted from 18k gold—are inspired by a Ferdinand Berthoud astronomical regulator clock from 1785”

Regulating Mechanism and Movement Details

The movement consists of 230 individual components and is reported to require over 100 hours of decoration work, including hand-polished chamfered edges, galvanic coating, and manually sandblasted matte surfaces. A prominent three-dimensional cylindrical hairspring is mounted on the left side under an elongated balance bridge, functioning without a tourbillon. Certified to the ISO 3159 chronometer standard by COSC, the hairspring's curves were formed using a profile projector at the balance wheel and balance cock attachment points.

The movement also includes a stopwork mechanism that allows for hacking seconds. The rear side is described in documentation as displaying ten additional bridges through a sapphire crystal caseback, including a 120-degree angled mainspring barrel bridge referencing a historical quarter-repeater watch by Louis Berthoud.

Evidence for this section
  • “Prominently displayed on the left side of the watch is a cylindrical hairspring, a three-dimensional concentric balance spring”
  • “Unlike many cylindrical hairsprings, which are often paired with tourbillons to counteract positional errors, the FB3 SPC does not rely on a tourbillon.”
  • “meeting the ISO 3159 standard as verified by COSC”
  • “A stopwork mechanism allows for hacking seconds”
  • “ten additional bridges visible through the sapphire crystal caseback”

Open research questions

  • What specific individual serial or edition number is engraved on this particular example offered by Phillips PERPETUAL?
  • Does direct visual inspection of the caseband at 9 o'clock confirm the presence and finish of the lateral sapphire crystal aperture?
  • What markings, signatures, and hallmarks are visible across the caseback and reverse bridges of this specific piece?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC.2
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Case material18k rose gold“A 2023 Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC.2 in 18k rose gold”
Case dimensions42.30mm × 9.43mm“features a 42.30mm × 9.43mm case crafted from 18k white or pink gold”
Regulating organCylindrical hairspring without tourbillon“Prominently displayed on the left side of the watch is a cylindrical hairspring”
Component count230 individual components“The movement, composed of 230 individual components, requires over 100 hours of decoration work.”
Annual production limit25 examples annually“Due to the complexities involved in its production, only 25 examples of the FB3 SPC are made annually.”
Historical movement inspirationFerdinand Berthoud No. 3 astronomical watch balance bridge design“The balance bridge evokes the design of Ferdinand Berthoud’s No. 3 astronomical watch”
Movement decoration timeOver 100 hours“The movement, composed of 230 individual components, requires over 100 hours of decoration work.”

Visible details

  • Open dial architecture revealing grey galvanic-coated matte bridges, blued screws, and exposed geartrain components
  • Off-centre black subdial positioned at the right with faceted gold hands
  • Fluted knurled crown in rose gold with geometric knurling pattern
  • Large exposed balance assembly at the base under an elongated balance bridge
  • Outer black chapter ring with printed white numerals marking minutes

Research qualifications

  • Lateral sapphire window at 9 o'clock and the sapphire caseback mentioned in the source are not visible in this front view
  • Specific serial or limited edition number is not provided in the listing text

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Ferdinand Berthoud FB3 SPC.2

Reviewed 2026-10-21 · Record 1479812239