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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Horizontal oval wristwatch

Cartier Ceinture Wristwatch

Partially verified

This Cartier 'Ceinture' wristwatch, dating to the 1980s, features a horizontal oval case crafted from 18K yellow gold. Measuring 33 mm in diameter and 7 mm in thickness, the timepiece is designed with a two-body construction that combines polished and brushed finishes. It includes a stepped bezel, hooded lugs, and a snap-on case back, along with a winding crown set with a cabochon sapphire. The watch is presented on a strap with an 18K yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp. The dial is white, decorated with painted black radial Roman numerals and an outer minute track, complemented by blued steel epee hands. Powering the watch is the manual-wind Calibre 2512-1 movement, which is rhodium-plated, contains 17 jewels, and features a straight-line lever escapement with a monometallic balance and shock absorber. Both the dial and the movement are signed by Cartier.

Front view of the Cartier Ceinture wristwatch with white dial and Roman numerals.
Front view of the Cartier Ceinture wristwatch with white dial and Roman numerals. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Wristwatch · Horizontal oval wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Cartier
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
156
Source-reported date
1980s
Source-reported place
France
Source-reported serial
780902320

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Design

The Cartier 'Ceinture' features a distinctive horizontal oval case made of solid 18K yellow gold. The two-body design integrates both polished and brushed finishing techniques, presenting a stepped bezel and hooded lugs. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal and a snap-on case back.

The white dial displays painted black radial Roman numerals and a formal outer minute track. The time is indicated by blued steel epee hands. The watch is secured to the wrist by an 18K yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp.

Evidence for this section
  • “horizontal oval, 18K yellow gold wristwatch”
  • “Two-body, solid, polished and brushed, cabochon sapphire-set winding crown, stepped bezel, hooded lugs, snap-on case back, sapphire crystal.”
  • “White with painted black radial Roman numerals, outer minute track.”

Movement and Mechanical Details

The timepiece is powered by the Cartier Calibre 2512-1 movement. This rhodium-plated manual movement is built with 17 jewels. The technical configuration includes a straight-line lever escapement and a monometallic balance with an integrated shock absorber. A self-compensating flat balance spring is utilized within the system.

The movement is marked with the number 78-1. As noted in the auction documentation, the movement is signed.

Evidence for this section
  • “Cal 2512-1,No.78-1, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring.”
  • “Dial and movement signed.”

Condition and Attribution

The watch has been assigned a grade of AA by the auction house, which is interpreted as very good. Specific component grading lists the case as good, the movement as very good, and the dial as good. The hands are reported as original to the piece.

Attribution is given to Cartier, Paris. The watch is dated to the 1980s. The presence of the case number 780902320 is documented as identifying the specific object.

Evidence for this section
  • “Cartier, Paris, 'Ceinture'”
  • “Made in the 1980s.”
  • “Grading System Grade: AA Very good Case: 3 Good Movement: 2* Very good”
  • “HANDS Original”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific historical production run for the Ceinture model within the 1980s?
  • Are there variations in the 18K gold alloy composition for the deployant clasp compared to the case?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Cartier Ceinture Wristwatch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Case material18K yellow gold“18K yellow gold”
Movement caliberCal 2512-1“Cal 2512-1”
Case number780902320“780902320”
Movement number78-1“No.78-1”
Dimensions33 mm diameter, 7 mm thickness“Diam. 33 mm. Thickness 7 mm.”
CrystalSapphire“sapphire crystal”
Jewel count17“17 jewels”
Auction gradeAA“Grading System Grade: AA”

Visible details

  • Case diameter of 33 mm
  • Blued steel epee hands
  • Crown set with a cabochon sapphire
  • Presence of a deployant clasp

Research qualifications

  • The auction description indicates that an overhaul is recommended
  • The provided text does not specify the exact composition of the strap material

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Cartier Ceinture Cartier, Paris, 'Ceinture', case No. 780902320. Made in the 1980s. Fine, horizontal oval, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with and 18K yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp.

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record bb1ac398e5

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.