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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch

Andersen Geneve Unique Piece Minute-Repeating Perpetual Calendar

Partially verified

This unique 18K yellow gold wristwatch, produced in 1990, features both minute-repeater and perpetual calendar complications. The watch is signed Andersen, Geneve on the dial, while the rhodium-plated movement, numbered 36363, is signed by Henry Capt, Genève. The construction includes a two-body case with cast bezel and lug decoration, and a transparent back. It houses a 31-jewel movement with fausses cotes decoration, wolf’s tooth winding, a bimetallic compensation balance, and a counterpoised straight-line lever escapement. The watch is accompanied by an 18K yellow gold buckle and an integrated strap setting pin. The piece is approximately 37 mm in diameter and 12 mm in thickness.

Front view showing the engine-turned dial, subsidiary complications, and the cast 18K yellow gold case.
Front view showing the engine-turned dial, subsidiary complications, and the cast 18K yellow gold case. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Wristwatch · Minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Andersen Geneve
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
409
Source-reported date
1990
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
36363

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Design

The watch features a two-body case constructed from 18K yellow gold. The external aesthetic is defined by cast patterns applied to both the bezel and the lugs, creating a textured finish. The design incorporates sapphire crystals and a transparent back, which also features a border decorated to match the bezel. A setting pin is integrated into the strap to facilitate calendar adjustments.

The dial is engine-turned gold paired with a matte silvered chapter ring displaying radial Roman numerals. It serves as a base for multiple complications, including a retrograde date scale and two subsidiary dials indicating the days of the week and the months. Additionally, apertures provide visibility for the four-year cycle and the moon phases, with a lunar calendar printed along the edge.

Evidence for this section
  • “Two-body, the bezel and lugs cast with a repeated pattern, transparent back, the border decorated to match the bezel”
  • “Engine-turned gold with matte silvered chapter ring with radial Roman numerals, retrograde scale for the date, subsidiary dials for the days of the week and the months”

Movement Construction

The timepiece is powered by a rhodium-plated movement signed by Henry Capt, Genève. It features a 31-jewel configuration and is decorated with fausses cotes. Mechanical features include wolf's tooth winding, a bimetallic compensation balance, and a Breguet balance spring. The watch is regulated by an index regulator and utilizes a counterpoised straight-line lever escapement.

The minute-repeater functionality is operated via a slide on the band, allowing the watch to strike the time on gongs. The movement is cataloged as a 12??? caliber, reflecting the size as described in the source documentation. All functions operate within the context of the perpetual calendar mechanism.

Evidence for this section
  • “the movement by Henry Capt, Genève, No. 36363”
  • “rhodium plated, fausses cotes decoration, 31 jewels, wolf?s tooth winding, counterpoised straight-line lever escapement, bimetallic compensation balance, Breguet balance spring, index regulator, repeating on gongs activated by a slide on the band.”

Condition and Attribution

The auction description reports the condition of the object components using a specific grading system. The case is graded as 2, indicating it is in very good condition. Similarly, the movement is graded as 2, also described as very good. The dial is classified as 1-01, described as being in 'as new' condition. The blued steel baton hands are noted as original.

The object is attributed to the workshop of Svend Andersen, who founded his own studio in 1979 following a career that included time at Patek Philippe. The watch is identified as a unique piece from 1990, reflecting Andersen's approach to creating complicated horological objects.

Evidence for this section
  • “Grading System Grade: Case: 2 Very good Movement: 2 Very good Dial: 1-01 As new HANDS Original”
  • “In 1979 Andersen set up his own workshop, and since then has created high quality, unusual, and complicated timepieces.”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific caliber designation hidden by the '12???' notation in the source?
  • What is the technical relationship or provenance regarding the use of a Henry Capt-signed movement in a 1990 Andersen Geneve piece?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Andersen Geneve Unique Piece Minute-Repeating Perpetual Calendar
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerAndersen, Geneve“Andersen, Geneve”
Movement makerHenry Capt, Genève“the movement by Henry Capt, Genève”
Movement serial36363“No. 36363”
Year of manufacture1990“Made as a unique piece in 1990.”
Case material18K yellow gold“18K yellow gold wristwatch”
ComplicationsMinute-repeater, perpetual calendar, leap year, retrograde date, moon phases“minute-repeating, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with perpetual calendar, leap year indication, retrograde date, moon phases and age of the moon”
Dial decorationEngine-turned gold“Engine-turned gold with matte silvered chapter ring”

Visible details

  • Cast decorative pattern on bezel and lugs
  • Blued steel baton hands
  • Subsidiary dial layout with retrograde date scale
  • Transparent case back

Research qualifications

  • The source refers to the movement as 12???, suggesting an incomplete or illegible specification in the cataloging process.
  • The specific historical origin of the Henry Capt movement blank is not detailed beyond the signature.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Unique Piece, Minute-Repeating & Perpetual Calendar Andersen, Geneve, the movement by Henry Capt, Genève, No. 36363. Made as a unique piece in 1990. Very fine and unique, minute-repeating, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with perpetual calendar, leap year indication, retrograde date, moon phases and age of the moon, an 18K yellow gold buckle, and a setting pin integrated into the strap.

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record 4179262e1f

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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