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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Enamel and diamond-set pocket watch

William Anthony (attributed) 'Diamond Rosette' Pocket Watch, retailed by Just & Lane, No. 1855

Partially verified

Catalogued as lot 216 and dated circa 1800, this 18K gold pocket watch is attributed by the source to William Anthony and recorded as retailed by Just and Lane under number 1855. Measuring 47 mm in diameter, the three-body 'Directoire' case carries mastermark GB. The case back displays translucent imperial blue enamel over engine-turning, mounted with an applied rosette set with rose-cut diamonds surrounding a larger central diamond. Split pearls line the bezels, pendant, and bow, framed by azure and red enamel accents. The source notes a white enamel dial with Roman numerals, a hinged gold cuvette, and a gilt-brass Chinese calibre duplex movement featuring scrolling foliage chasing.

Back view of the 18K gold pocket watch case showing blue guilloché enamel, diamond rosette, and pearl borders
Back view of the 18K gold pocket watch case showing blue guilloché enamel, diamond rosette, and pearl borders — EveryWatch. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
everywatch.com
Category
Pocket watch · Enamel and diamond-set pocket watch
Maker / attribution
Attributed to William Anthony
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
216
Source-reported date
circa 1800
Country
Not established
Source-reported serial
1855

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Identity and Attribution

Catalogued in the Antiquorum Geneva sale on May 14, 2017 as lot 216, this 18K gold pocket watch is attributed by the cataloguer to William Anthony under the heading titles ''DIAMOND ROSETTE'' and ''DIAMOND SNOWFLAKE''. The lot description notes it as retailed by Just and Lane under number 1855, with an estimated production date of circa 1800.

The cataloguer records a three-body 'Directoire' case bearing mastermark GB. The attribution to William Anthony is documented as a cataloguer attribution rather than an explicit maker signature recorded on the dial or movement.

Evidence for this section
  • “LOT 216 ''DIAMOND ROSETTE'' Attributed to WILLIAM ANTHONY DIAMOND SNOWFLAKE retail by Just and Lane, No. 1855. Made circa 1800.”
  • “Three-body, "Directoire", mastermark GB”

Case Construction and Exterior Decoration

The 47 mm case is described as an 18K gold and enamel construction set with pearls and diamonds. The visible case back features translucent cobalt blue guilloché enamel over engine-turning, mounted with an applied gold and diamond-set floral rosette centered on a larger rose-cut diamond and accent stones.

The outer perimeter of the back displays an azure enamel frame with red enamel accents. Split pearls line the bezels, pendant neck, and bow. The source also records a hinged gold cuvette fixed to the movement ring.

Evidence for this section
  • “Very fine, large, 18K gold and enamel, pearl and diamond set pocket watch.”
  • “back decorated with translucent Imperial blue enamel over elaborate engine- turning with rose-cut diamond-set applied rosette and large diamonds in the center, azure enamel frame with red enamel, pearl-set bezels and pendant.”
  • “Hinged gold cuvette fixed to the movement ring.”
  • “Translucent cobalt blue guilloché enamel case back overlaid with an applied gold and diamond-set floral rosette.”

Reported Movement and Dial Details

The cataloguer describes a white enamel dial with radial Roman numerals, outer minute divisions, and gold hands. Because only the case back is shown in the provided photograph, these dial details rely entirely on the auction description.

The internal mechanism is reported as a gilt-brass Chinese calibre derived from the Lépine layout, decorated with chased scrolling foliage. The mechanical specification notes a free-standing barrel, duplex escapement, a plain flat five-arm polished steel balance, a flat balance spring, and a diamond end-stone.

Evidence for this section
  • “White enamel, radial Roman numerals, outer minute divisions. Gold hands.”
  • “Gilt brass, fully chased with scrolling foliage decoration, Chinese calibre drawn from that of Lepine with free standing barrel, duplex escapement, plain flat fivearm polished steel balance with flat balance spring and diamond end-stone.”

Open research questions

  • Which casemaker or workshop does the mastermark 'GB' represent in late 18th- or early 19th-century registers for the Chinese market?
  • Is the movement signed or numbered directly by Just & Lane, or does the retail designation derive solely from auction cataloguing tradition for number 1855?
  • What specific archival or stylistic criteria supported the auction attribution to William Anthony?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for William Anthony (attributed) 'Diamond Rosette' Pocket Watch, retailed by Just & Lane, No. 1855
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
AttributionAttributed to William Anthony“Attributed to WILLIAM ANTHONY”
Retailer and NumberJust and Lane, No. 1855“retail by Just and Lane, No. 1855”
DateCirca 1800“Made circa 1800”
Diameter47 mm“47 mm.”
Case DecorationTranslucent Imperial blue enamel over engine-turning with diamond-set rosette“back decorated with translucent Imperial blue enamel over elaborate engine- turning with rose-cut diamond-set applied rosette and large diamonds in the center”
Movement CalibreChinese calibre with duplex escapement“Chinese calibre drawn from that of Lepine with free standing barrel, duplex escapement”
Case MastermarkGB“mastermark GB”
Case Material18K gold, enamel, pearl, and diamond set“18K gold and enamel, pearl and diamond set pocket watch.”
Sale RealizationCHF 23,750 on May 14, 2017“Sold: CHF 23,750”

Visible details

  • Translucent cobalt blue guilloché enamel case back overlaid with an applied gold and diamond-set floral rosette.
  • Central rose-cut diamond surrounded by a halo of smaller rose-cut diamonds and scrolling floral tendrils set with accent stones.
  • Bezel rim, pendant neck, and oval bow are set with continuous rows of split pearls.
  • Outer border features concentric bands of geometric chevron enamel in azure, white, and red.

Research qualifications

  • The dial, cuvette, movement, and interior hallmarks are not visible in the provided photograph and rely entirely on source reporting.
  • The attribution to William Anthony is an expert attribution recorded by the auction house rather than a signed maker signature.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

William Anthony Yellow gold White 1800 | EveryWatch

Reviewed 2026-10-21 · Record 1a7a42b3f1

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.