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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Indirect center-seconds dress watch

Vacheron & Constantin Indirect Center-Seconds Dress Watch

Partially verified

This 14K yellow gold keyless dress watch by Vacheron & Constantin is an indirect center-seconds timepiece manufactured for the American market circa 1920. Measuring 45.5 mm in diameter, the four-body 'demi-bassine' case features a polished finish, a curved bezel, and a semi-concealed hinge. The white enamel dial is adorned with black Breguet numerals and a perimeter track marked with fifths-of-a-second divisions and Arabic five-minute numerals. The time is displayed via black Breguet hands. Internally, the watch is powered by a 16 1/2''' rhodium-plated movement with 19 jewels, featuring wolf’s tooth winding, a straight-line lever escapement, and a cut bimetallic compensation balance adjusted to 8 positions. Regulation is managed by a swan-neck micrometer and a blued steel Breguet balance spring. This lot is accompanied by a period Vacheron & Constantin presentation box.

Front view of the 14K yellow gold Vacheron & Constantin watch showing the white enamel dial and Breguet numerals.
Front view of the 14K yellow gold Vacheron & Constantin watch showing the white enamel dial and Breguet numerals. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Pocket watch · Indirect center-seconds dress watch
Maker / attribution
Vacheron & Constantin
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
90
Source-reported date
circa 1920
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
385629

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Design

The watch is housed in a 14K yellow gold four-body case identified as 'demi-bassine' style. The assembly includes a gold crown and bow, showing light signs of use consistent with age.

The white enamel dial serves as the primary interface, featuring bold black Breguet numerals. An outer chapter ring delineates time with precise fifths-of-a-second divisions, interspersed with Arabic numerals every five minutes. The hands are fashioned in the Breguet style, providing legibility against the white enamel ground. The dial is signed 'Vacheron & Constantin' and 'Genève'.

Evidence for this section
  • “Four-body, "demi-bassine", polished, curved bezel, semi-concealed hinge.”
  • “White enamel with Breguet numerals, outer minute track with fifths of a second divisions and Arabic five-minute numerals.”

Movement and Escapement

The movement is a 16 1/2''' caliber, rhodium-plated and equipped with 19 jewels. It incorporates technical features including wolf's tooth winding, which reduces wear on the transmission gears. The escapement is a straight-line lever type, acting upon a cut bimetallic compensation balance fitted with timing screws to counteract temperature fluctuations.

Further regulation is provided by a swan-neck micrometer and a blued steel Breguet balance spring. The movement is marked with 8 adjustments, indicating a focus on precision timing.

Evidence for this section
  • “16 1/2''', rhodium-plated, 19 jewels, wolf 's tooth winding, straight-line lever escapement, cut bimetallic compensation balance with timing screws, 8 adjustments”
  • “Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense”

Signatures and Condition

Interestingly, the gold case is signed 'E.E.R.', which denotes a case manufacturer involved in the production process for the American market during this period.

While the case and movement are reported as 'Good', the dial exhibits hairlines.

Evidence for this section
  • “Dial and movement signed Vacheron & Constantin, case signed E.E.R.”
  • “Grading System Grade: AA Very good”
  • “ENAMEL AND VARIOUS TYPES OF DECORATION Hairlines”

Open research questions

  • What is the historical identity of the case maker 'E.E.R.' often associated with American-market gold cases?
  • What specific mechanical configuration defines the 'indirect' center-seconds system used in this 16 1/2''' caliber?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Vacheron & Constantin Indirect Center-Seconds Dress Watch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerVacheron & Constantin“Vacheron & Constantin, Genève”
Serial Number385629“movement No. 385629”
Case Number216765“case No. 216765”
Diameter45.5 mm“DIAM. 45.5 mm.”
Movement16 1/2''' Rhodium-plated“16 1/2''', rhodium-plated, 19 jewels”
Adjustments8“8 adjustments”
Dial ConditionHairlines present“Hairlines”
Case SignatureE.E.R.“case signed E.E.R.”

Visible details

  • White enamel dial with visible hairline cracks
  • Black Breguet-style hour and minute hands
  • Polished demi-bassine yellow gold case
  • Integrated crown and bow assembly

Research qualifications

  • The exact condition of the interior movement mechanism is subject to an recommended overhaul.
  • The case is signed E.E.R., indicating potential case manufacture outside of Vacheron & Constantin's own facility.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

VACHERON CONSTANTIN INDIRECT CENTER SECONDS YELLOW GOLD Vacheron & Constantin, Genève, movement No. 385629, case No. 216765. Made for the American market, circa 1920. Very fine, indirect center-seconds, 14K yellow gold, keyless dress watch. Accompanied by a period Vacheron & Constantin box.

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record 1de121ccdc

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.