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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Calendar pocket watch

Swiss 18K Rose Gold 'American Calendar' Pocket Watch

Partially verified

The watch is housed in a four-body polished 'bassine' case with a hinged gold cuvette, measuring 50 mm in diameter. The white enamel dial displays painted radial Roman numerals, an outer minute track with Arabic numerals at five-minute intervals, and three apertures positioned below 12 o'clock indicating the day of the week, the date, and the month. It utilizes yellow gold spade hands and includes a subsidiary seconds dial. Internally, the 18-jewel, 41 mm (18 ligne) frosted gilt movement is equipped with wolf's tooth winding, a counterpoised straight-line lever escapement, a cut-bimetallic compensation balance, and a steel Breguet balance spring with an index regulator.

Front view of the 18K rose gold pocket watch showing the Roman numeral dial and 'American' calendar apertures.
Front view of the 18K rose gold pocket watch showing the Roman numeral dial and 'American' calendar apertures. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Pocket watch · Calendar pocket watch
Maker / attribution
Not established
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
132
Source-reported date
circa 1890
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
13313

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial

The watch is enclosed in a four-body, polished 18K rose gold case in the 'bassine' style. It features a hinged gold cuvette protecting the internal movement components and measures 50 mm in total diameter. The exterior remains in a polished finish, as noted in the auction condition assessment. This Swiss keyless pocket watch, dated circa 1890, is crafted from 18K rose gold and features a calendar complication with moon phases. The timepiece is attributed to Swiss manufacture and is dated to circa 1890.

The white enamel dial is configured with painted radial Roman numerals and an outer minute track featuring Arabic numerals at five-minute intervals. Centrally, yellow gold spade-shaped hands indicate the time. The calendar display is organized via three distinct apertures arranged below the 12 o'clock position, which provide information for the day of the week, the date, and the month.

Evidence for this section
  • “Four-body, "bassine", polished, hinged gold cuvette.”
  • “White enamel with painted radial Roman numerals, outer five-minute Arabic numerals and minute track”
  • “apertures below 12 o'clock for days of the month, date and month”

Movement and Escapement

The internal mechanism is a 41 mm (18 ligne) frosted gilt movement set with 18 jewels. The winding system utilizes a wolf’s tooth mechanism, and the regulation is controlled via an index regulator.

The escapement is a counterpoised straight-line lever type, paired with a cut-bimetallic compensation balance and a steel Breguet balance spring. This setup is reported to be in good condition, although the auction house recommends an overhaul.

Evidence for this section
  • “41 mm (18'''), frosted gilt, 18 jewels, wolf?s tooth winding”
  • “counterpoised straight-line lever escapement, cut-bimetallic compensation balance, steel Breguet balance spring, index regulator.”

Condition and Attribution

It carries the case number 13313, and the gold case is hallmarked. The auction house has provided a condition grading for the specific components of the watch.

The grading system employed by the auctioneer identifies the case, movement, and dial as 'Good'. It is noted that the movement is in good condition, but a full service is advised for the prospective owner.

Evidence for this section
  • “Swiss, case No 13313. Made circa 1890.”
  • “Grading System Grade: A Good Case: 3 Good Movement: 3* Good”
  • “Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific manufacturer of the ebauche used in this movement?
  • How does the mechanical display in this 1890 watch compare to later versions of the calendar display described in the notes?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Swiss 18K Rose Gold 'American Calendar' Pocket Watch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Case material18K rose gold“18K rose gold”
Case typeFour-body, bassine, polished, hinged gold cuvette“Four-body, "bassine", polished, hinged gold cuvette.”
Case number13313“case No 13313”
Movement size41 mm (18''')“41 mm (18''')”
Jewels18 jewels“18 jewels”
EscapementCounterpoised straight-line lever“counterpoised straight-line lever escapement”
Dial markingsPainted radial Roman numerals“painted radial Roman numerals”

Visible details

  • White enamel dial with three calendar display apertures
  • Polished gold case with keyless winding crown
  • Yellow gold spade style hands
  • Subsidiary seconds dial positioned at six o'clock

Research qualifications

  • The watch requires an overhaul as reported by the auction house
  • General information provided about 'American' calendar history contradicts the early date of this specific watch

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.