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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Open face dress watch

Gold and Enamel Open Face Dress Watch

Partially verified

This Swiss-made open face dress watch dates to the early 20th century. The watch is encased in 18-karat gold with translucent blue enamel applied over a radial engine-turned guilloche base. It features a two-piece case construction consisting of a back and a clip-on bezel. The silvered metal dial is equipped with black painted Arabic numerals and blued steel hands. Internally, the watch is powered by a keyless, nickel-plated movement featuring a split three-quarter plate design and a going barrel. The technical specifications include a plain-cock balance bridge, a non-cut bimetallic balance with a hairspring, and a club-foot lever escapement. The watch is accompanied by a 370 mm flat wire gold chain and is housed in a dedicated octagonal red morocco leather box, which contains the retailer name Licht & Morrison, Davis Street, London, printed on the interior lid.

Open face gold and enamel pocket watch with gold chain, early 20th century.
Open face gold and enamel pocket watch with gold chain, early 20th century. — Zamanito / Pieces of Time. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
zamanito.com
Category
Pocket watch · Open face dress watch
Maker / attribution
GM
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
Source URL identifies the listing
Source-reported date
early 20th century
Source-reported place
Switzerland

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Design

The watch features an open-face construction, with an 18-karat gold case finished in translucent blue enamel over a radially engine-turned guilloche ground. The case consists of two primary parts: a back cover and a clip-on bezel.

The dial is composed of silvered metal and is attached via a pressure-fit mechanism. It is decorated with black painted Arabic numerals and fitted with blued steel hands, matching the aesthetic of the case components.

Evidence for this section
  • “قاب ساعت ساختار دو تکه شامل قاب پشتی و زه فشاری (clip-on bezel) دارد که هر دو بخش با مینای آبی شفاف (translucent blue enamel) روی زمینه‌ای با تراش گیوشه شعاعی (engine-turned) پوشانده شده‌اند”
  • “صفحه ساعت فلزی با آبکاری نقره‌ای و اتصال فشاری است که اعداد عربی مشکی روی آن نقاشی شده و عقربه‌های آن از فولاد آبی‌رنگ ساخته شده‌اند”

Movement Construction

The timepiece is powered by a Swiss-made, keyless-wind movement with nickel plating. The architecture follows a split three-quarter plate layout and includes a going barrel mechanism.

Technical regulation is managed by a plain-cock balance bridge supporting a non-cut bimetallic balance and a hairspring.

Evidence for this section
  • “موتور ساعت از نوع کوک بدون کلید (keyless) با کالیبر کوچک، روکش نیکل و طراحی سه چهارم پلیت مقسوم (split three quarter plate) همراه با مخزن کوک متحرک (going barrel) است”
  • “مکانیزم رقاصک دوفلزی برش‌نخورده با فنر رقاصک مارپیچ، تنظیم‌کننده فولادی پولیش‌خورده روی خرک ساده (plain cock) و سیستم چرخ‌دنگ اهرمی با دندانه‌های موسوم به پای چماقی (club foot lever escapement) هدایت ساعت را بر عهده دارند”

Accessories and Retailer Details

The watch is accompanied by a gold chain featuring flat wire links, measuring 370 mm in total length. The chain is not stamped with hallmarks or maker marks.

It is presented in an octagonal box covered in red morocco leather. The interior of the lid features the retailer's mark for Licht & Morrison, located on Davis Street in London, suggesting the watch was retailed in the UK market.

Evidence for this section
  • “زنجیر طلا با حلقه‌های سیمی مسطح و بدون نشان به طول ۳۷۰ میلی‌متر قرار دارد”
  • “جعبه اختصاصی هشت‌ضلعی آن با روکش چرم مراکشی قرمز (red morocco) ساخته شده که در لایه داخلی درب آن نام فروشنده انگلیسی «Licht & Morrison» به نشانی خیابان دیویس در لندن به چشم می‌خورد”

Open research questions

  • Identity of the 'GM' maker associated with the crossed hammer mark
  • Specific production timeline for the Licht & Morrison retail mark on Davis Street

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Gold and Enamel Open Face Dress Watch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Maker MarkGM with two crossed hammers inside an oval“نشان سازنده آن با حروف لاتین «GM» در دو طرف دو چکش متقاطع داخل یک بیضی ثبت شده است”
Case Material18-karat gold“بدنه ساخته‌شده از طلای ۱۸ عیار”
Movement TypeKeyless, nickel-plated, split three-quarter plate“موتور ساعت از نوع کوک بدون کلید (keyless) با کالیبر کوچک، روکش نیکل و طراحی سه چهارم پلیت مقسوم (split three quarter plate)”
EscapementClub-foot lever“سیستم چرخ‌دنگ اهرمی با دندانه‌های موسوم به پای چماقی (club foot lever escapement)”
Case DecorationTranslucent blue enamel over engine-turned ground“مینای آبی شفاف (translucent blue enamel) روی زمینه‌ای با تراش گیوشه شعاعی (engine-turned)”
BoxRed morocco leather octagonal box“جعبه اختصاصی هشت‌ضلعی آن با روکش چرم مراکشی قرمز (red morocco) ساخته شده”
RetailerLicht & Morrison, London“نام فروشنده انگلیسی «Licht & Morrison» به نشانی خیابان دیویس در لندن به چشم می‌خورد”

Visible details

  • Translucent blue enamel over engine-turned guilloche
  • Flat link gold chain measuring 370 mm in length
  • Blued steel hands over silvered metal dial
  • Two-piece case construction with clip-on bezel

Research qualifications

  • Condition of enamel surfaces not verified
  • Functional status and service history not documented

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Gold and Enamel Dress Watch and Chain

Reviewed 2026-11-02 · Record 7f5c4d5483

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.