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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Minute repeating pocket watch

Fr. Retz & Cie. Minute-Repeating Chronograph Pocket Watch

Partially verified

This Fr. Retz & Cie. pocket watch, produced circa 1890, is a hunting-cased, keyless, minute-repeating instrument featuring a single-button chronograph. Housed in an 18K yellow gold "bassine et filets" case, it measures 53 mm in diameter and exhibits extensive engine-turned decoration. The timepiece is accompanied by its original fitted box and certificate. The movement is a 20-ligne caliber constructed from maillechort with "fausses côtes" finishing. It incorporates a straight-line counterpoised lever escapement, 30 jewels, a cut bimetallic compensation balance, and a steel Breguet balance-spring regulated by a swan-neck micrometer. The minute-repeating function is operated via a slide on the case band, while the chronograph is controlled by a single button. The white enamel dial displays radial Roman numerals and subsidiary seconds, complemented by pink gold "Louis XVI" style hands set with diamonds. The watch is signed on the dial and numbered across the movement, case, and cuvette.

A view of the Fr. Retz & Cie. pocket watch in its fitted box with the accompanying manufacturer's certificate.
A view of the Fr. Retz & Cie. pocket watch in its fitted box with the accompanying manufacturer's certificate. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Pocket watch · Minute repeating pocket watch
Maker / attribution
Fr. Retz & Cie.
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
266
Source-reported date
circa 1890
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
21215

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Construction

The timepiece is housed in an 18K yellow gold hunting case, characterized by a "bassine et filets" design. The external surfaces of the case feature engine-turned decoration. It includes a hinged gold cuvette protecting the movement, located behind a glazed cover.

The white enamel dial features radial Roman numerals with an outer track for minutes and 1/5th seconds for the chronograph. A sunk subsidiary seconds dial is positioned at the base of the dial. The watch features pink gold "Louis XVI" hands which are set with diamonds.

Evidence for this section
  • “Five-body, "bassine et filets", entirely engine-turned, , hinged cold cuvette over glazed cover.”
  • “White enamel with radial Roman numerals, outer minute and 1/5th seconds chronograph divisions, sunk subsidiary seconds dial.”
  • “Pink gold ?Louis XVI" hands, set with 3 diamonds.”

Movement and Complications

The movement is a 20-ligne caliber constructed of maillechort and finished with "fausses côtes" decoration. It contains 30 jewels and utilizes a straight-line counterpoised lever escapement. Regulation is achieved through a steel Breguet balance-spring and a swan-neck micrometer regulator, paired with a cut bimetallic compensation balance.

The watch features a minute-repeating complication activated by a slide on the case band. Additionally, a single-button chronograph is operated via a button located on the band.

Evidence for this section
  • “Cal. 20''', maillechort, "fausses côtes" decoration, 30 jewels, straight line counterpoised lever escapement”
  • “cut bimetallic compensation balance, steel Breguet balance-spring, swan neck micrometer regulator”
  • “chronograph button on the band, repeating on gongs through activating slide on the band.”

Condition and Attribution

The auction description provides a grading assessment for the watch. The overall grade for the lot is listed as AA.

The object includes an original fitted box and a certificate of authenticity. The watch is signed on the dial, with the serial number repeated on the movement, case, and internal cuvette.

Evidence for this section
  • “Grading System Grade: AA Very good”
  • “Case: 3 Good Movement: 3-5* Good Poor Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense Dial: 3-5-01 Good Poor”
  • “Dial signed, numbered on the movement, case and cuvette.”

Open research questions

  • What specific archival records exist for the serial number 21215 at Fr. Retz & Cie.?
  • Could the diamond setting in the Louis XVI hands be a later customization or factory original?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Fr. Retz & Cie. Minute-Repeating Chronograph Pocket Watch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerFr. Retz & Cie.“Fr. Retz & Cie., Chaux-de-Fonds”
Serial Number21215“No. 21215”
Case material18K yellow gold“18K yellow gold pocket watch”
Movement caliber20 ligne“Cal. 20'''”
Jewel count30“30 jewels”
Diameter53 mm“Diam. 53 mm.”
Dial featuresWhite enamel with Roman numerals“White enamel with radial Roman numerals”

Visible details

  • Engine-turned gold hunting case
  • Pink gold hands with diamond settings
  • Numbered cuvette and case interior
  • Certificate of origin present in box

Research qualifications

  • The auction house reports poor mechanical condition requiring overhaul
  • The dial condition is described as poor in the grading assessment

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

'Répétition à Minutes - Chronographe' Fr. Retz & Cie., Chaux-de-Fonds, 'Répétition à Minutes - Chronographe', No. 21215. Made circa 1890. Very fine, hunting cased, keyless, minute-repeating, 18K yellow gold pocket watch with single button chronograph. Accompanied by a fitted box and original certificate.

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record ff399d511b

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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