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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Skeletonized retrograde wristwatch

Daniel Roth Skeleton Retrograde

Partially verified

This Daniel Roth 'Skeleton Retrograde' wristwatch, identified as serial number 17, dates to the late 1990s. The timepiece features a double-ellipse-shaped case crafted from 18K white gold, measuring 35 by 38 mm with a thickness of 11 mm. The watch is defined by its skeletonized construction, revealing a hand-engraved movement, the Caliber 3000. It includes a retrograde hour function displayed on a guilloché sector, alongside separate ring dials for minutes and seconds, all driven by a 17-jewel movement with a straight-line lever escapement. The watch has a water-resistant rating and is fitted with a transparent case back, sapphire crystals, and an 18K white gold Daniel Roth buckle. Blued steel 'flèche' hands indicate the time. The dial, case, and movement are signed. The watch maintains a 42-hour power reserve and includes a monometallic balance and micrometer regulator.

Front view of the Daniel Roth Skeleton Retrograde wristwatch featuring a double-ellipse case and visible movement.
Front view of the Daniel Roth Skeleton Retrograde wristwatch featuring a double-ellipse case and visible movement. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Wristwatch · Skeletonized retrograde wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Daniel Roth
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
301
Source-reported date
late 1990s
Source-reported place
Not established
Source-reported serial
17

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Construction

The watch is housed in a solid, two-body case with a double-ellipse configuration. Constructed of 18K white gold, the case features polished surfaces, a rounded bezel, and straight lugs. A transparent case back allows for visibility of the internal components, and sapphire crystals are fitted to the front and back of the watch.

It incorporates a guilloché sector specifically for the retrograde hour indication, which uses painted Arabic numerals. Additionally, the dial layout includes ring dials for minutes and seconds, with timekeeping indicated by blued steel flèche-style hands.

Evidence for this section
  • “C. Two-body, solid, polished, rounded bezel, transparent case back, straight lugs, sapphire crystals.”
  • “D. Transparent with guilloché sector for the retrograde hours in painted Arabic numerals and ring dials for the minutes and seconds. Blued steel "flèche" hands.”

Movement and Mechanics

Powering the timepiece is the Caliber 3000, a movement characterized by its hand-engraved and skeletonized finish. This mechanical movement is jeweled with 17 jewels and employs a straight-line lever escapement. The balance is monometallic and operates in conjunction with a self-compensating Breguet balance spring.

The watch provides a 42-hour autonomy. Precision is managed via a micrometer regulator, and the movement includes a shock absorber to protect the balance staff. The entire mechanism is contained within the water-resistant white gold case.

Evidence for this section
  • “M. Cal. 3000, hand-engraved and skeletonized, 17 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, micrometer regulator.”
  • “42-hour autonomy”

Condition and Signatures

The auction description reports the object is in very good condition across its primary components. Specifically, the case is graded as 3, while the movement is assigned a grade of 2, and the dial is ranked 2-01. All parts are described as original, with the hands confirmed as original to the piece.

The watch is fully signed, with the signature appearing on the dial, the case, and the movement. It is completed by an original 18K white gold Daniel Roth buckle.

Evidence for this section
  • “Dial, case and movement signed.”
  • “Grading System Grade: AA Very good Case: 3 Good Movement: 2 Very good Dial: 2-01 Very good HANDS Original”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific production start and end date for the Caliber 3000 movement used by Daniel Roth?
  • Are there variations in the guilloché pattern density across other examples of the 'Skeleton Retrograde' from the 1990s?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Daniel Roth Skeleton Retrograde
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Serial17“No. 17.”
Case Material18K white gold“18K white gold gentleman's wristwatch”
Dimensions35 x 38 mm“Dim. 35 x 38 mm.”
MovementCal. 3000“M. Cal. 3000, hand-engraved and skeletonized”
Jewels17“17 jewels”
Power Reserve42-hour“42-hour autonomy”
Case typeDouble-ellipse-shaped“double-ellipse-shaped, skeletonized, water-resistant, 18K white gold gentleman's wristwatch”

Visible details

  • Features a double-ellipse case design
  • Skeletonized movement plate shows hand-engraving
  • Dial displays a retrograde hour sector with painted Arabic numerals
  • Hands are blued steel in the 'flèche' style

Research qualifications

  • The country of manufacture is not stated in the source
  • Specific metal composition of the balance components beyond 'monometallic' is not described

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

"Skeleton Retrograde" Daniel Roth, "Retrograde", No. 17. Made in the late 1990s. Very fine, double-ellipse-shaped, skeletonized, water-resistant, 18K white gold gentleman's wristwatch with retrograde hours, 42-hour autonomy and an 18K white gold Daniel Roth buckle.

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record ca99d72a36

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.