Pocket watch · Brooch watch

Anonymous Heart-Shaped Brooch Watch

Partially verified

This 18-karat gold heart-shaped brooch watch, attributed to Switzerland circa 1800, features a white enamel dial with dual subsidiary rings for the hours and date. The piece is distinguished by a visible, diamond-set spiral-form balance, which serves as a central aesthetic and horological element. The watch is powered by a heart-shaped, gilt-brass full-plate movement utilizing a going barrel and a specific pirouette escapement; in this configuration, the balance staff is fitted with a pinion that gears into an intermediate wheel carrying the virgule, causing the balance to rotate multiple times in each direction. The exterior is decorated with a diamond-set bezel, and the back includes an integrated winding shutter. The assembly is accompanied by its original gold key and a leather fitted box. Measuring 43 by 29 mm, it represents an early form of pendant watch developed in Geneva at the end of the eighteenth century.

Front view of the heart-shaped brooch watch showing the two subsidiary dials and the central diamond-set balance. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source: catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category: Pocket watch · Brooch watch
Maker / attribution: Not established
Reference: Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier: 434
Source-reported date: circa 1800
Source-reported place: Switzerland

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial

The watch is housed in a two-piece gold case shaped in the form of a heart. The exterior of the bezel is fully set with diamonds, following the perimeter of the heart shape.

The white enamel dial is arranged with two subsidiary rings; one ring displays the Breguet hour chapter, while the other indicates the date. Positioned centrally between these two rings is an aperture revealing the spiral-form balance, which is itself decorated with diamonds. The hands are fashioned from blued steel in the Breguet style, providing a contrast to the white enamel surface.

Evidence for this section

“Two piece shaped case with diamond set bezel, and winding shutter in the back.”
“White enamel with subsidiary ring for Breguet hour chapter and date, the diamond set spiral form balance visible through an aperture.”

Movement and Escapement

The heart-shaped movement is constructed on a gilt brass full plate. It features a going barrel and an unconventional virgule escapement incorporating a pirouette mechanism. This arrangement is highly specific, as the balance staff is fitted with a pinion that gears into an intermediate wheel carrying the virgule.

As a result of this specific configuration, the balance is driven to revolve several times in each direction, rather than oscillating in a conventional fashion. This movement is identified as an early type of form watch produced in Geneva towards the conclusion of the eighteenth century, marking it as a rare example within the lineage of pendant and ring watches.

Evidence for this section

“Heart shape gilt brass full plate, with going barrel, virgule escapement, with pirouette”
“Therefore the balance revolves several time each direction.”
“This is the earliest type of form watch produced in Geneva toward the end of the XVIII th century.”

Provenance and Documentation

The auction description notes the presence of original components, specifically citing the inclusion of the original gold key and a period leather fitted box. These items accompany the watch as part of the lot.

According to the auction notes, this object is considered the only recorded example known to feature this specific pirouette escapement configuration. It is categorized within the broader family of pendant and ring watches, serving as an indicator of early Geneva form-watch manufacture.

Evidence for this section

“with original gold key and leather fitted box.”
“It is to date, the only recorded example, in any form, with a pirouette escapement.”

Open research questions

Are there any archival records in Geneva documenting the specific maker of this pirouette-equipped movement?
Are there surviving technical drawings that detail the specific gear ratios used for the intermediate wheel in this pirouette escapement?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Anonymous Heart-Shaped Brooch Watch
Field	Source-reported value	Source quotation
Material	18 ct. gold	“18 ct. gold diamond set brooch watch”
Dimensions	43 x 29 mm	“Dim. 43 x 29 mm.”
Escapement	Virgule with pirouette	“virgule escapement, with pirouette”
Case	Two piece shaped case	“Two piece shaped case”
Dial	White enamel	“White enamel with subsidiary ring for Breguet hour chapter and date”
Included items	Gold key and leather box	“original gold key and leather fitted box.”
Movement	Heart shape gilt brass full plate	“Heart shape gilt brass full plate, with going barrel”

Visible details

The bezel is densely set with diamonds.
Dial features two distinct subsidiary rings for time and calendar functions.
The watch case is configured in the shape of a heart.
A winding shutter is located on the back of the watch.

Research qualifications

The source claims it is the only recorded example with a pirouette escapement, which remains unverified by third-party research.
The attribution to Switzerland circa 1800 is given without a specific maker's signature.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Anonymous, Swiss, circa 1800. Extremely rare 18 ct. gold diamond set brooch watch designed as a heart, with calendar and special pirouette escapement, with original gold key and leather fitted box.

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record ba99c817f9

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.