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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Hunter-cased pocket watch

Usher & Cole Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Pocket Watch

Partially verified

According to the auction cataloguing, this 1887 hunter-cased pocket watch features a minute repeater, perpetual calendar, leap year indication, power reserve, and moon phases. The 61mm 18K yellow gold four-body case bears 1887 London hallmarks and is reported to weigh 264 grams. The white enamel dial features Roman numerals, calendar and power reserve sub-dials, and a moon phase aperture inscribed 'S. A. Brooks London'. The movement is described as a manual gilt brass three-quarter plate 21''' English lever mechanism with 26 jewels and a diamond endstone, signed by Usher & Cole and inscribed for jeweler S.A. Brooks.

Front view of the hunter-cased pocket watch showing the white enamel dial with calendar and moon phase indications
Front view of the hunter-cased pocket watch showing the white enamel dial with calendar and moon phase indications — Phillips. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
www.phillips.com
Category
Pocket watch · Hunter-cased pocket watch
Maker / attribution
Usher & Cole
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
85
Source-reported date
1887
Country
United Kingdom
Source-reported serial
24993

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Object Identity and Trade Signatures

Catalogued as an 1887 English hunter-cased pocket watch bearing movement number 24993, this timepiece is attributed to the maker Usher & Cole, with dual trade markings for retailer and jeweller S.A. Brooks. The dial is signed 'S.A. Brooks', while the movement is described in catalogue text as signed 'Usher & Cole Chronometer Makers to the Admiralty' and 'Jewelled by S.A. Brooks London'.

The cataloguing essay further states that the movement mechanism was supplied by Nicole Nielsen, the white enamel dial was produced by Frederick Willis, and the case bears London hallmarks for 1887 along with a maker/sponsor's mark recorded as Phillip Woodman & Sons (and referred to as Philip Goodman & Sons in the essay text).

Evidence for this section
  • “Movement No 24993”
  • “Dial signed S.A. Brooks. Movement signed “Usher & Cole Chronometer Makers to the Admiralty” and “Jewelled by S.A. Brooks London”. Case with London hallmarks for 18K gold, 1887, and sponsor’s mark for Phillip Woodman & Sons.”
  • “The movement was supplied by Swiss expatriate watchmaker, Nicole Nielsen”
  • “The white enamel dial, still in incredible condition after nearly 150 years, was made by Frederick Willis”
  • “while the case was made by Philip Goodman & Sons, which also made number 26’518.”

Case Construction and Exterior Details

The case is constructed from 18K yellow gold, measuring 61 mm in diameter, and is described in the auction essay as a four-body bassine et filet case weighing 264 grams. The cataloguer notes exterior champlevé enamel decoration consisting of a coat of arms and monogram, alongside traditional features including five-knuckle joints, a turning pendant, and a raised push piece.

In the single front-facing photograph provided, the open hunter cover shows a polished interior surface, a fluted onion-form winding crown, and a circular bow bearing stamped hallmarks. The reverse and outer covers are not depicted in the image.

Evidence for this section
  • “Dimensions 61mm Diameter”
  • “Weighing an impressive 264 grams (over half a pound), the polished 18K yellow gold four-bodied case, made in a time where all cases were crafted by hand, measures 61mm in diameter with all the attributes of a quality English case: turning pendant, 5-knuckle joints, and a raised push piece.”
  • “with champlevé enamel coat of arms and monogram”
  • “Open hunter cover showing polished interior, fluted onion-form winding crown, and circular bow stamped with hallmarks”

Dial Display and Mechanism Specification

Direct visual inspection shows a white enamel dial with black Roman numeral hour markers, subsidiary dials positioned at 3, 9, and 12 o'clock, and an aperture for moon phases at 6 o'clock. The lower dial is signed 'S. A. BROOKS / LONDON' directly beneath the moon phase register.

The movement is catalogued as a manual-wind, gilt brass three-quarter plate 21''' English lever mechanism with 26 jewels and a diamond endstone. Complications reported in the lot description include a minute repeater, perpetual calendar, leap year indication, power reserve, and moon phases, accompanied by blued steel screws and mirror-polished steel bridges.

Evidence for this section
  • “White enamel dial with Roman numeral hour markers, subsidiary dials at 3, 9, and 12 o'clock, and moon phase aperture at 6 o'clock”
  • “Dial signed 'S. A. BROOKS / LONDON' beneath the subsidiary moon phase register”
  • “Calibre Manual, gilt brass three quarter plate 21’’’ English lever movement, 26 jewels (diamond endstone)”
  • “It features a perpetual calendar mechanism with moon phases, leap year indication, and power reserve, as well as a minute repeater.”
  • “Exquisite details, such as mirror polished steel bridges, jewels set within screwed-in gold settings, and beautiful blued steel screws”

Open research questions

  • What specific initials and heraldic charges appear on the exterior champlevé enamel coat of arms and monogram?
  • Does the physical sponsor mark read 'PW' for Phillip Woodman & Sons or another maker's mark corresponding to Philip Goodman & Sons?
  • Are there any internal markings on the dial reverse or pillar plate confirming Willis or Nicole Nielsen production numbers?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Usher & Cole Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Pocket Watch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Movement Number24993“Movement No 24993”
Case Material18K yellow gold“Material 18K yellow gold”
Diameter61mm“Dimensions 61mm Diameter”
Calibre DetailsManual, gilt brass three quarter plate 21’’’ English lever movement, 26 jewels (diamond endstone)“Calibre Manual, gilt brass three quarter plate 21’’’ English lever movement, 26 jewels (diamond endstone)”
Dial SignatureS.A. Brooks“Dial signed S.A. Brooks.”
Reported Total Weight264 grams“Weighing an impressive 264 grams (over half a pound)”
Case StyleFour-body bassine et filet (source-reported)“an entire ecosystem of British watchmaking is contained within the four-body bassine et filet case.”
Exterior Enamel DecorationChamplevé enamel coat of arms and monogram (source-reported)“with champlevé enamel coat of arms and monogram”
Movement SupplierNicole Nielsen (source-reported)“The movement was supplied by Swiss expatriate watchmaker, Nicole Nielsen”
Dial MakerFrederick Willis (source-reported)“The white enamel dial, still in incredible condition after nearly 150 years, was made by Frederick Willis”

Visible details

  • White enamel dial with Roman numeral hour markers, subsidiary dials at 3, 9, and 12 o'clock, and moon phase aperture at 6 o'clock
  • Open hunter cover showing polished interior, fluted onion-form winding crown, and circular bow stamped with hallmarks
  • Dial signed 'S. A. BROOKS / LONDON' beneath the subsidiary moon phase register

Research qualifications

  • The movement and exterior case decorations are described in catalogue text but are not visible in the supplied single front-facing photograph.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Usher & Cole The New York Watch Auction: XII

Reviewed 2026-10-21 · Record 50a29255c2

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.