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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Rotating movement wristwatch

Ulysse Nardin Freak Reference 016-88

Partially verified

This Ulysse Nardin 'Freak' (reference 016-88) is an 18K pink gold wristwatch produced circa 2007. The timepiece is characterized by its 60-minute revolving movement architecture designed by Ludwig Oechslin. The watch features a three-body 18K pink gold case measuring 43 mm in diameter, equipped with a ridged bi-directional rotating bezel for time setting and a transparent rotating back for winding. The matte navy blue dial displays applied white gold Arabic numerals. The UN 01 caliber movement incorporates a dual direct escapement with crystal silicon impulse wheels and a mainspring that spans the diameter of the case. This wristwatch offers a seven-day power reserve. The item is offered with its original presentation box, certificate, booklet, and hang tag. It is fitted with an 18K pink gold Ulysse Nardin deployant clasp.

The Ulysse Nardin Freak in pink gold, shown alongside its presentation box, certificate, and associated paperwork.
The Ulysse Nardin Freak in pink gold, shown alongside its presentation box, certificate, and associated paperwork. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Wristwatch · Rotating movement wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Ulysse Nardin
Reference
016-88
Catalogue / lot identifier
69
Source-reported date
circa 2007
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
285

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial

The timepiece features a three-body 18K pink gold case measuring 43 mm in diameter and 10 mm in thickness. The exterior construction incorporates stepped curled lugs and an applied brushed plaque on the case band which is engraved with the individual unit number 285. Sapphire crystals are utilized on both sides of the watch.

The bezel is a ridged, bi-directional rotating component utilized for the adjustment of time. The dial is finished in a matte navy blue color, featuring applied white gold radial Arabic numerals. Hour and minute indication is achieved through brushed and polished white gold pointers attached to the rotating movement assembly.

Evidence for this section
  • “Three-body, polished, stepped curled lugs, ridged bi-directional rotating bezel to set the time”
  • “Matte navy blue with applied white gold radial Arabic numerals”

Movement and Escapement

The watch is powered by the Caliber UN 01, a mechanism distinguished by its revolving movement structure. The bridges, finished in a brushed copper color with blued steel screws, rotate from the center axis, which is pivoted in the sapphire crystal. The lower bridge displays the hour, while the upper bridge carries the linear wheel train and the escapement assembly, completing a full revolution every hour to indicate minutes.

The escapement is Ludwig Oechslin’s dual direct design, utilizing two crystal silicon impulse wheels. The balance assembly features a monometallic balance wheel, a self-compensating flat balance spring, and a shock absorber system. The mainspring is positioned underneath the movement, spanning the total diameter of the case to provide a seven-day power reserve.

Evidence for this section
  • “Ludwig Oechslin's dual direct escapement”
  • “rotating from the center, the lower bridge indicates the hour while the upper bridge, fitted with the linear wheel train and escapement assembly, revolves once every hour”

Provenance and Accessories

The watch is listed with an 18K pink gold deployant clasp produced by Ulysse Nardin. The provenance includes the original manufacturer's documentation and storage materials.

Included in the lot are the original box, the instruction booklet, the official certificate, and the product hang tag. The auction house reports a condition grade of AAA, with individual ratings provided for the case, movement, and dial.

Evidence for this section
  • “Accompanied by the original box and booklet, certificate, and tag.”
  • “Ulysse Nardin 18K pink gold deployant clasp.”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific maintenance schedule recommended for the rotating Caliber UN 01?
  • How does the silicon-based dual direct escapement differ in operational longevity compared to traditional lever escapements?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Ulysse Nardin Freak Reference 016-88
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerUlysse Nardin“Ulysse Nardin, Le Locle”
Reference016-88“Ref 016-88”
Case Material18K pink gold“18K pink gold wristwatch”
MovementCaliber UN 01“Caliber UN 01”
Case Diameter43 mm“Diam. 43 mm.”
Jewels32“32 jewels”
Serial Number285“No. 285”

Visible details

  • Matte navy blue dial with radial Arabic numerals
  • Ridged rotating bezel used for setting the time
  • Copper-colored movement bridges visible through the dial
  • Three-body case construction with stepped curled lugs

Research qualifications

  • Condition grading (1-3) is provided by the auction house and not externally verified.
  • The exact date of manufacture is approximate as cited in the source.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.