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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Open-face watch

Louis XVI French gold and enamel open face pocket watch

Partially verified

This Louis XVI period open face pocket watch measures 37.7mm in diameter and weighs approximately 45.4g. The gold metal case is hallmarked for Paris between July 1776 and August 1777 by untraced maker L.F.L, bearing the charge mark of Jean Baptiste Fouache and incuse number 185. Decorated with white and cobalt blue vegetal enamels and concentric cloisonné roundels on the back, the case features rose-cut diamonds in foiled closed-back settings around the bezel and in the crown. The signed white dial presents Roman hour numerals, Arabic minute divisions, blued spade hands, and an off-center winding aperture. The watch is fitted with an 1880s replacement lever escapement movement.

Front view of the Louis XVI French open face pocket watch showing the enamel dial and diamond-set bezel
Front view of the Louis XVI French open face pocket watch showing the enamel dial and diamond-set bezel — Chiswick Auctions. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
auctions.chiswickauctions.co.uk
Category
Pocket watch · Open-face watch
Form
Open-face pocket watch
Maker / attribution
L.F.L
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
321
Source-reported date
17th July 1776 - Aug 17th 1777
Source-reported place
France
Source-reported serial
185

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case Design and Decoration

The watch features a gold-colored open-face case. The sides are decorated with a white enamel band intertwined with cobalt blue vegetal tendrils. The case back is adorned with concentric roundels of blue and white cloisonné enamel, which converge toward a central floral bouquet on a golden ground.

The bezel and the crown are set with rose-cut diamonds, described as being held in foiled closed-back settings.

Evidence for this section
  • “Gold metal open face, the sides encrusted and enamelled with a white band intertwined with cobalt blue vegetal tendrils, the back with concentric roundels of blue and white cloisonne enamels, converging to the golden centre with a floral bouquet.”
  • “Rose-cut diamond course to face, in foiled-closed back settings. A collet-set rose cut diamond in the crown, also in a foiled closes-back setting.”

Hallmarks and Attribution

The case back displays hallmarks indicating a Parisian production between July 17th, 1776, and August 17th, 1777. The markings include the charge mark of Jean Baptiste Fouache and the incuse number 185.

The maker is identified by the mark 'L.F.L' with a star device. The source records this maker as untraced.

Evidence for this section
  • “Case marked to back for Paris 17th July 1776 - Aug 17th 1777, by L.F.L with device a star (untraced), also with charge mark of Jean Baptiste Fouache, numbered 185 incuse.”

Dial and Mechanism

The white dial is signed and features black Roman numerals, an outer minute track with black Arabic numerals, and blued spade hands. A key-winding aperture is located at the 2 o'clock position.

The watch contains a late replacement 1880s lever escapement movement.

Evidence for this section
  • “Dial: Signed, white, black Roman numerals, black outer minute division with black Arabic numerals, blued spade hands, aperture for key at the 2 o'clock position”
  • “Movement:Late replacement 1880's, lever escapement”

Open research questions

  • What specific records exist for Parisian goldsmiths active between 1776 and 1777 to potentially identify the 'L.F.L' mark?
  • Does the internal case geometry provide evidence of specific modifications made to accommodate the 1880s replacement movement?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Louis XVI French gold and enamel open face pocket watch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Case HallmarksParis, 17th July 1776 - Aug 17th 1777, maker mark L.F.L with a star, charge mark of Jean Baptiste Fouache, numbered 185 incuse“Case marked to back for Paris 17th July 1776 - Aug 17th 1777, by L.F.L with device a star (untraced), also with charge mark of Jean Baptiste Fouache, numbered 185 incuse.”
MovementReplacement lever escapement dating to the 1880s“Movement:Late replacement 1880's, lever escapement”
DialSigned white dial with Roman numerals, Arabic minute chapter, blued spade hands, and key aperture at 2 o'clock“Dial: Signed, white, black Roman numerals, black outer minute division with black Arabic numerals, blued spade hands, aperture for key at the 2 o'clock position”
Gem SettingsFoiled closed-back rose-cut diamonds surrounding the face and set into the crown“Rose-cut diamond course to face, in foiled-closed back settings. A collet-set rose cut diamond in the crown, also in a foiled closes-back setting.”
Dimensions37.7mm“Size: 37.7mm”
WeightApprox. 45.4g“Weight: Approx. 45.4g”
Case Diameter37.7mm“Size: 37.7mm”
Case WeightApprox. 45.4g“Weight: Approx. 45.4g”

Visible details

  • White enamel dial inscribed with a cursive signature across the upper section and 'A PARIS' across the lower center.
  • Winding aperture is positioned at approximately the 2 o'clock location on the dial face.
  • Bezel ring is set with a continuous row of small rose-cut stones.
  • Case neck, pendant, and suspension bow are gold-colored, with a stone set into the top of the crown.

Research qualifications

  • The movement is an 1880s replacement lever escapement rather than an eighteenth-century mechanism.
  • The maker mark 'L.F.L with device a star' is noted as untraced by the auction house.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

AMENDMENT - A LOUIS XVI FRENCH GOLD AND ENAMEL OPEN FACE POCKET WATCH.

Reviewed 2026-10-22 · Record 749207e52b

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.