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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Open-face keyless lever pocket watch

Belle Époque 18K Bicolor Gold Open Face Keyless Lever Pocket Watch

Partially verified

This Belle Époque open-face pocket watch features an 18-karat bicolor gold case measuring approximately 46.00 mm in diameter. The bezel is decorated with an engraved branch and star motif, framing a dial painted en grisaille depicting classical figures in an allegorical scene, attributed to Fernand Paillet. Driven by a manual-wind keyless lever movement, the watch bears a French gold hallmark and the stamped number 41200, with a reported gross weight of 31.70 pennyweights.

Dial and bezel view of the 18K bicolor gold Belle Époque pocket watch
Dial and bezel view of the 18K bicolor gold Belle Époque pocket watch — Freeman's / Hindman. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
hindmanauctions.com
Category
Pocket watch · Open-face keyless lever pocket watch
Maker / attribution
Fernand Paillet (attributed dial and case back painting)
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
7
Source-reported date
Belle Époque
Country
France
Source-reported serial
41200

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and External Construction

The timepiece is housed in a bicolor gold case measuring approximately 46.00 mm in diameter, featuring a bicolor gold bezel decorated with an engraved branch and star pattern.

The watch is stamped with a French hallmark for 18-karat gold and the number 41200. The case exhibits visible scratching throughout.

Evidence for this section
  • “bicolor gold case measuring approximately 46.00 mm in diameter”
  • “bicolor gold bezel with branch and star pattern”
  • “Stamps: (French hallmark) 41200.”
  • “French hallmark is for 18 karat gold.”
  • “Scratching to the gold throughout.”

Dial and Artistic Attribution

The watch features a dial painted en grisaille with a classical scene. This decorative work, alongside matching work on the case back, is attributed to Fernand Paillet.

This attribution is provided by the auction house as part of the lot description.

Evidence for this section
  • “dial painted with a classical scene en grisaille attributed to Fernand Paillet”
  • “case back painted en grisaille attributed to Fernand Paillet”

Movement and Operational Status

The watch is powered by a manual-wind movement. At the time of cataloging, it was reported to wind, set, and run, though it has not been timed for accuracy.

The auction house notes that the watch may stop running before the auction, does not provide a warranty, and recommends servicing.

Evidence for this section
  • “manual wind movement”
  • “The pocket watch winds, sets and runs at the time of cataloguing but has not been timed for accuracy.”
  • “Hindman does not warranty the watch at the time of the auction or after its purchase”
  • “servicing is recommended for all timepieces.”

Open research questions

  • What documentation or provenance exists to support the attribution of the paintings to Fernand Paillet?
  • Does the serial number 41200 correspond to any known production records for this type of timepiece?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Belle Époque 18K Bicolor Gold Open Face Keyless Lever Pocket Watch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Case diameterApproximately 46.00 mm“measuring approximately 46.00 mm in diameter”
Dial decoration attributionAttributed to Fernand Paillet“dial painted with a classical scene en grisaille attributed to Fernand Paillet”
Bezel designBicolor gold with branch and star pattern“bicolor gold bezel with branch and star pattern”
Hallmark and numberFrench hallmark, 41200“Stamps: (French hallmark) 41200.”
Gross weight31.70 dwt“Gross weight: 31.70 dwt.”

Visible details

  • Open-face pocket watch configuration with a top winding crown and decorative bow.
  • Bicolor gold bezel engraved with stylized foliate sprigs and interspersed stars.
  • Dial painted en grisaille with classical allegorical figures against a muted blue-green ground, encircled by Roman numerals.

Research qualifications

  • The case back painting and internal movement are mentioned in the catalogue but not displayed in the provided images.
  • Artist attribution to Fernand Paillet is stated by the auction house without explicit signature verification.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

BELLE ÉPOQUE, 18K BICOLOR GOLD OPEN FACE KEYLESS LEVER... | Freeman's

Reviewed 2026-10-22 · Record 9bf9dadfcc

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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