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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Perpetual calendar wristwatch

Daniel Roth Master Perpetual Calendar

Partially verified

This Daniel Roth Master Perpetual Calendar, reference 118.X.040, is an 18k yellow gold wristwatch featuring a double-ellipse case measuring 35mm by 38mm. The watch displays a grey dial with a hand-finished guilloché chapter ring containing Roman numerals. It includes calendar indicators for day, month, leap year, and date, along with a moon phase display. The movement is an automatic Calibre DR114, which the source notes was modified for Daniel Roth. The watch is presented on a leather strap with an 18k yellow gold Daniel Roth buckle. Developed by Daniel Roth with Philippe Dufour during the 1990s, the design aimed to incorporate an instantaneous perpetual calendar mechanism, though the production model features a standard perpetual calendar complication. This specific example is identified as an early execution from the manufacturer's formative period.

The Daniel Roth Master Perpetual Calendar, reference 118.X.040, featuring an 18k yellow gold double-ellipse case.
The Daniel Roth Master Perpetual Calendar, reference 118.X.040, featuring an 18k yellow gold double-ellipse case. — Analog:Shift. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
www.analogshift.com
Category
Wristwatch · Perpetual calendar wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Daniel Roth
Reference
118.X.040
Catalogue / lot identifier
Source URL identifies the listing
Source-reported date
circa 1990s
Source-reported place
Switzerland

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial

The watch is housed in an 18k yellow gold case described as having a double-ellipse geometry measuring 35mm by 38mm. This design incorporates a distinct rounded profile with protruding lugs. The case construction reflects the manufacturer's signature style established during its formative years.

The dial is grey and features a hand-finished guilloché chapter ring adorned with Roman numerals. The arrangement of the perpetual calendar complications—including day, month, date, leap year, and moon phase—is designed for symmetry and legibility. Blue steel hands indicate the hours and minutes, as well as the calendar functions.

Evidence for this section
  • “35mm by 38mm, the distinctive double-ellipse case remains unlike anything else in watchmaking”
  • “Its sophisticated grey dial is framed by a hand-finished guilloché chapter ring with Roman numerals”

Movement and Complication

The watch is powered by the automatic Calibre DR114. The movement was meticulously modified for Daniel Roth and adheres to the finish standards observed in the brand's early production. The movement is visible through the caseback.

The perpetual calendar complication originated from a design collaboration between Daniel Roth and Philippe Dufour. While the pair initially aimed to develop an instantaneous perpetual calendar, the energy demands required for such a display were not met, resulting in the perpetual calendar mechanism found in this example.

Evidence for this section
  • “Visible through the caseback is the automatic Calibre DR114, meticulously modified for Daniel Roth”
  • “Seeking to develop the world's first instantaneous perpetual calendar, the pair would go on to design its foundation before extensively reengineering it”

Provenance and Presentation

This watch is identified as an early execution from the 1990s. The piece is provided with a leather strap secured by an original 18k yellow gold Daniel Roth buckle.

The object is presented as a product of the collaboration between Daniel Roth and Philippe Dufour. It is noted that the manufacture produced these watches in small numbers during its early period.

Evidence for this section
  • “This particular example, a Reference 118.X.040, is an especially desirable early execution”
  • “Produced in exceptionally small numbers during the manufacture's formative years”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific production date for this individual reference number?
  • To what extent does the Calibre DR114 movement design differ from standard movements used in that era?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Daniel Roth Master Perpetual Calendar
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerDaniel Roth“Daniel Roth”
Reference118.X.040“Reference 118.X.040”
Case Material18k yellow gold“18k yellow gold”
Case Dimensions35mm by 38mm“35mm by 38mm”
MovementCalibre DR114“automatic Calibre DR114”
CollaborationDaniel Roth and Philippe Dufour“collaboration between two of the era's greatest watchmaking minds: Daniel Roth and Philippe Dufour.”

Visible details

  • Case is a double-ellipse shape in 18k yellow gold
  • Dial features a guilloché chapter ring with Roman numerals
  • Blue steel hands are present for hours, minutes, and calendar indicators
  • Moon phase aperture is positioned at the top of the dial center

Research qualifications

  • The exact production year is not specified beyond 'early 1990s'
  • The extent and specific nature of Philippe Dufour's collaboration on this final movement assembly are described as a design foundation phase

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

ساعت مچی Daniel Roth Master Perpetual Calendar رفرنس 118.X.040

Reviewed 2026-11-02 · Record f438286950

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

Other perpetual calendar wristwatch records