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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Perpetual calendar wristwatch

De Bethune DB15WT 18k White Gold Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch, No. 002

Partially verified

Catalogued as Lot 124 by Christie's, this De Bethune reference DB15WT is an 18k white gold perpetual calendar wristwatch dating to circa 2014 and designated number 002. The watch is built with a 43 mm round case featuring De Bethune's distinctive ogival lugs. Its silvered guilloché dial displays Roman numerals, blued hands, day and month apertures at 9 and 3 o'clock, and a subsidiary date dial at 6 o'clock. Positioned below 12 o'clock is a signature three-dimensional spherical moon phase set against a blued starry backdrop, beneath which a leap year indication is subtly incorporated.

Front view of the De Bethune DB15WT perpetual calendar wristwatch in 18k white gold
Front view of the De Bethune DB15WT perpetual calendar wristwatch in 18k white gold — Christie's. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
www.christies.com
Category
Wristwatch · Perpetual calendar wristwatch
Maker / attribution
De Bethune
Reference
DB15WT
Catalogue / lot identifier
124
Source-reported date
circa 2014
Country
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
002

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case Construction and Exterior Presentation

Catalogued as reference DB15WT and numbered 002, this wristwatch is executed in 18k white gold with a reported case diameter of 43 mm. In physical observation, the polished white metal round case features distinct ogival drop-shaped lugs and is mounted on a light grey leather strap.

The auction listing records that the watch is accompanied by an 18k white gold De Bethune buckle, presentation box, Certificate of Origin, slip case, and an outer dust bag. Neither the case back nor the movement components are visible in the provided reference photograph.

Evidence for this section
  • “Polished white metal round case featuring distinct ogival drop-shaped lugs and fitted to a light grey leather strap.”
  • “Case: 43 mm. diam.”
  • “With: 18k white gold De Bethune buckle, Certificate of Origin, slip case, presentation box and outer dust bag”

Dial Layout and Perpetual Calendar Displays

The watch features a silvered dial decorated with fine guilloché patterning, printed Roman numerals, and an outer minute track. The calendar layout includes horizontal day and month apertures placed at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock, displaying 'TUE' and 'JAN' respectively in the visual record, alongside an auxiliary pointer date subdial situated at 6 o'clock.

Positioned below 12 o'clock is a three-dimensional spherical moon phase surrounded by a blue starry disc. The auction essay states that a leap year indication is subtly integrated below the moon phase, represented by the eclipse of a star.

Evidence for this section
  • “Silvered dial with fine guilloché patterning, printed Roman numerals, and an outer minute track.”
  • “Day aperture at 9 o'clock displaying 'TUE' and month aperture at 3 o'clock displaying 'JAN'.”
  • “Three-dimensional spherical moon phase surrounded by a blue starry disc located below 12 o'clock.”
  • “A leap year indication is subtly integrated below the moon phase, represented by the eclipse of a star.”

Movement Specifications and Cataloguing Discrepancies

Internal contradictions exist within the auction documentation regarding the movement. The structured lot details list 'Movement: Manual', whereas the accompanying lot essay describes the movement as the 'self-winding DB2004 calibre' boasting a five-day power reserve.

Because the movement was not photographed or independently examined, its actual winding mechanism, movement markings, and operational condition are not verified from the visual record. The dating of 'circa 2014' is also an approximate cataloguing attribution.

Evidence for this section
  • “Movement: Manual”
  • “At the heart of this timepiece is the self-winding DB2004 calibre, which incorporates at least five of De Bethune’s patented innovations”
  • “REF. DB15WT, NO. 002, CIRCA 2014”

Open research questions

  • Is the movement in reference DB15WT No. 002 a manual-wind caliber as specified in the structured lot details, or the self-winding DB2004 caliber described in the lot essay?
  • What specific production and sale dates are documented on the included Certificate of Origin?
  • What reference, hallmark, and individual serial engravings appear on the unpictured case back and internal plates?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for De Bethune DB15WT 18k White Gold Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch, No. 002
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
ReferenceDB15WT“REF. DB15WT, NO. 002, CIRCA 2014”
Number002“NO. 002”
Case diameter43 mm“Case: 43 mm. diam.”
Case material18k white gold“18K WHITE GOLD PERPETUAL CALENDAR WRISTWATCH”
DialSilvered“Dial: Silvered”
Accompaniments18k white gold De Bethune buckle, Certificate of Origin, slip case, presentation box, and outer dust bag“With: 18k white gold De Bethune buckle, Certificate of Origin, slip case, presentation box and outer dust bag”
Reported power reserve5 days“It boasts a five-day power reserve, powered by a self-regulating twin barrel (patented 2004)”

Visible details

  • Silvered dial with fine guilloché patterning, printed Roman numerals, and an outer minute track.
  • Three-dimensional spherical moon phase surrounded by a blue starry disc located below 12 o'clock.
  • Day aperture at 9 o'clock displaying 'TUE' and month aperture at 3 o'clock displaying 'JAN'.
  • Auxiliary pointer date subdial situated at 6 o'clock.
  • Polished white metal round case featuring distinct ogival drop-shaped lugs and fitted to a light grey leather strap.

Research qualifications

  • The source listing presents conflicting movement specifications: the structured details indicate 'Movement: Manual', whereas the essay describes a 'self-winding DB2004 calibre'.
  • Movement and case back are not visible in the provided photograph.
  • Mechanical functioning, accuracy, and operational condition are source-reported and not independently tested.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.