Pocket watch · Centre-seconds pocket watch with visible balance

Daniel Moilliet 'Paris and Helen' Enamel Pocket Watch

Partially verified

This circa 1790 pocket watch by the Geneva-based clockmaker Daniel Moilliet features a high degree of artistic decoration. The two-body 'Directoire' gold case displays an enamel miniature, attributed to J-L. Richter, depicting Paris and Helen in a classical garden setting. The scene is executed over sunburst engine-turning on imperial blue translucent enamel, further adorned with a temple motif using paillons and half-pearls, while the bezel is also set with half-pearls. The white enamel dial is uniquely configured with an eccentric hour chapter and a visible aperture for a six-armed balance set with rose-cut diamonds. The movement is a 44.1 mm diameter hinged, gilt-brass full plate construction featuring a cylinder escapement and fixed barrel. The watch is signed on the movement and has been documented in the Sandberg book, pages 162-163.

Front view showing the eccentric dial and visible balance wheel, and rear view showing the enamel miniature depicting Paris and Helen. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source: catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category: Pocket watch · Centre-seconds pocket watch with visible balance
Maker / attribution: Daniel Moilliet
Reference: Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier: 120
Source-reported date: circa 1790
Source-reported place: Switzerland

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Enamel Work

The watch is housed in a two-body 'Directoire' gold case. The reverse is decorated with a miniature enamel painting depicting Paris and Helen, situated within a classical garden environment. The work is set against a translucent imperial blue enamel ground applied over engine-turned sunburst patterns.

Further embellishments include a representation of the Temple of Venus and an urn, created using paillons and half-pearls. The bezel is embellished with a surround of half-pearls, while the pendant is finished in champlevé enamel. The enamel painting is attributed to J-L. Richter.

Evidence for this section

“C. Two-body, 'Directoire', painted scene depicting Paris and Helen in a classical garden, taken from an engraving after a painting by Guido Reni (1575-1642)”
“set against imperial blue translucent enamel over sunburst engine-turning decorated with the Temple of Venus and an urn in paillons and half pearls”

Dial and Timekeeping Configuration

The white enamel dial features a non-standard layout with an eccentric hour chapter featuring Arabic numerals positioned in the lower half. The upper portion of the dial features an aperture that displays the balance.

The balance is a six-armed design, set with rose-cut diamonds, which oscillates against a mirror-polished steel plate. The dial is equipped with gold 'beetle' style hands and outer minute dot divisions, complemented by an outer ring showing quarter-second divisions and fifteen-second Arabic numerals.

Evidence for this section

“D. White enamel, eccentric Arabic hour numerals set in the lower part with outer minute dot divisions”
“at the top, aperture for diamond-et six-armed balance oscillating against a mirror-polished steel plate”

Movement and Construction

The movement is a 44.1 mm diameter, hinged gilt brass full plate construction. It utilizes cylindrical pillars and a fixed barrel. The timekeeping is regulated by a cylinder escapement featuring a brass escape wheel.

The movement is signed and features a flat balance spring. The technical arrangement includes a six-arm plain balance that is decorated with rose-cut diamonds, visible from the dial side. This scene is inspired by an engraving derived from a composition by Guido Reni.

Evidence for this section

“M. 44.1 mm o, hinged, gilt brass full plate with cylindrical pillars, fixed barrel, cylinder escapement”
“six-arm plain balance set with rose-cut diamonds, flat balance spring”
“Signed on the movement.”

Open research questions

What is the specific nature of the relationship between Daniel Moilliet and the artist J-L. Richter regarding the production of enamel-cased watches?
Are there remaining examples of other watches in the Sandberg collection that share the same specific balance-aperture configuration as this piece?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Daniel Moilliet 'Paris and Helen' Enamel Pocket Watch
Field	Source-reported value	Source quotation
Maker	Daniel Moilliet	“Daniel Moilliet, à Genève”
Date	circa 1790	“circa 1790”
Case Decoration	Imperial blue enamel and half-pearls	“set against imperial blue translucent enamel over sunburst engine-turning decorated with the Temple of Venus and an urn in paillons and half pearls”
Balance	Visible, rose-cut diamond-set six-armed balance	“six-arm plain balance set with rose-cut diamonds”
Dial	White enamel with eccentric numerals	“White enamel, eccentric Arabic hour numerals set in the lower part”
Movement	Gilt brass full plate	“gilt brass full plate with cylindrical pillars”
Literature	Sandberg book	“Published in the Sandberg book, page 162-163.”

Visible details

Eccentric hour display with Arabic numerals in the lower portion of the dial
Balance wheel visible through a top aperture oscillating over a polished steel plate
Bezel and case back decoration featuring multiple half-pearls
Gold 'beetle' style hands

Research qualifications

Enamel painting attribution is tentative
Condition status indicates an overhaul is required

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Paris abducting HelenDaniel Moilliet, à Genève, enamel painting attributed to J-L. Richter, circa 1790.Very fine, 18 ct. gold and enamel, pearl-set slim watch with centre seconds and visible diamond-set balance.

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record 64d2e3e326

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.