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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Single button chronograph

Breitling Single Button Chronograph Wristwatch

Partially verified

This Breitling gentleman's wristwatch, manufactured in the 1930s, is a single-button chronograph housed in a cushion-shaped, nickel-plated case. Measuring 32 x 32 mm with a 13 mm thickness, the case features a polished finish, a lapidated bezel, and triangular lugs. The dial is white enamel with painted black Breguet numerals, an outer 1/5th seconds track, a red telemeter scale, and a central spiral tachometric scale. A subsidiary seconds dial is positioned at the bottom. Time and chronograph functions are indicated by blued steel "épée" hands. The watch is powered by a rhodium-plated, 17-jewel movement, identified as Calibre 12 1/4"", which includes a straight-line lever escapement, a monometallic balance, and a flat balance-spring. Both the case and the movement are signed by Breitling. The auction description notes the presence of an original later bezel and states that the movement is slightly oxidized.

A front view of the Breitling single-button chronograph, showing the white enamel dial with spiral tachometric scale and triangular lugs.
A front view of the Breitling single-button chronograph, showing the white enamel dial with spiral tachometric scale and triangular lugs. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Wristwatch · Single button chronograph
Maker / attribution
Breitling
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
116
Source-reported date
1930s
Source-reported place
Switzerland

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial

The watch features a cushion-shaped case constructed from nickel-plated metal. It is characterized by a polished finish and includes a lapidated bezel. The structural composition is described as a three-body design with distinct triangular lugs to attach the strap.

The white enamel dial displays painted Breguet numerals. Chronographic data is presented through multiple scales: an outer 1/5th seconds track, a red telemeter graduation, and a central spiral tachometric scale. A subsidiary dial for seconds is located at the lower portion of the dial, while the hours and minutes are indicated by blued steel "épée" hands.

Evidence for this section
  • “cushion-shaped, nickel-plated gentle-man's wristwatch”
  • “C. Three-body, polished, lapidated bezel, triangular lugs.”
  • “D. White enamel with painted Breguet numerals”
  • “Blued steel "épée" hands.”

Movement and Escapement

The timepiece is driven by a rhodium-plated movement designated as Calibre 12 1/4"". It is constructed with 17 jewels to reduce friction in the gear train. The chronograph mechanism is operated via a single olive button.

The movement employs a straight-line lever escapement paired with a monometallic balance and a flat balance-spring. The manufacturer has signed both the movement and the case. The auction description notes that the movement shows signs of oxidation and recommends an overhaul.

Evidence for this section
  • “straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, flat balance-spring.”
  • “Case and movement signed.”
  • “Slightly oxidized Overhaul recommended”

Condition Report

The auction house provides a grading assessment for the watch, assigning a general grade of 'A' and specifying conditions for the individual components. The case is evaluated as grade 3, indicating good condition.

The movement is assigned a grade of 3-6*, noted as being slightly oxidized with a recommendation for an overhaul. The dial is classified under grades 3-43-57-01, described as good. It is also noted that the bezel is an original later component.

Evidence for this section
  • “Grading System Grade: A”
  • “Movement: 3-6* Good Slightly oxidized Overhaul recommended”
  • “Original later bezel”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific manufacturer or origin of the movement caliber 12 1/4""?
  • At what point in the watch's history was the original bezel replaced?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Breitling Single Button Chronograph Wristwatch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerBreitling, Genève“Breitling, Genève.”
Date1930s“Made in the 1930s.”
Dimensions32 x 32 mm, 13 mm thick“Dim. 32 x 32 mm. Thickness 13 mm.”
Case materialNickel-plated“nickel-plated”
Movement caliberCal. 12 1/4""“Cal. 12 1/4”
Jewel count17 jewels“17 jewels”
Dial featuresTelemeter, tachometer, subsidiary seconds“outer 1/5th seconds scale and telemeter graduation in red, at the center, spiral tachometric scale, subsidiary seconds dial.”

Visible details

  • White enamel dial with central spiral tachymeter
  • Single olive-shaped chronograph pusher at the two o'clock position
  • Blued steel hour and minute hands
  • Triangular lugs integrated into the cushion case design

Research qualifications

  • The auction description reports the movement is slightly oxidized
  • The auction description notes an original later bezel

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.