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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Purse watch

Vacheron & Constantin 'Montre de sac à volets' purse watch

Partially verified

This 14K yellow gold purse or desk watch, identified as a 'Montre de sac à volets', was produced by Vacheron & Constantin in the 1920s and retailed by Brand-Chatillon Co. The rectangular timepiece measures 45 x 32 mm and features a keyless winding mechanism. Its exterior includes reeded sides, engine-turned front and back panels, and an applied eagle decoration on the reverse. The watch incorporates mechanical shutters operated by gold thumb bars that open to reveal the dial. The matte silver dial is adorned with applied gold Breguet numerals and an outer minute ring, indicated by gold 'cathédrale' hands. Power is provided by a rhodium-plated 9 1/2''' movement containing 17 jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, and a cut bimetallic compensation balance adjusted to three positions, regulated by a blued steel Breguet balance spring. The movement is signed by the manufacturer, while the retailer's name appears on the dial.

14K yellow gold Vacheron & Constantin purse watch with shutters partially open to reveal the dial.
14K yellow gold Vacheron & Constantin purse watch with shutters partially open to reveal the dial. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Pocket watch · Purse watch
Maker / attribution
Vacheron & Constantin
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
167
Source-reported date
1920s
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
410828

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Exterior Design

The object is a rectangular purse or desk watch constructed from 14K yellow gold. Measuring 45 by 32 mm, the case is engineered with reeded sides and engine-turned surfaces on both the front and back. A decorative applied eagle figure is situated on the case back.

Functionality is provided by an integrated shutter system operated via gold thumb bars. These shutters reveal the dial when retracted. The watch operates on a keyless winding system, facilitating its use as a portable timepiece that can be protected within its own housing.

Evidence for this section
  • “rectangular, keyless, 14K yellow gold purse/desk watch”
  • “Front and back engine-turned, reeded sides, the back decorated with an applied eagle, gold thumb bars and shutters revealing the dial”

Dial and Movement

The watch features a matte silver dial marked with the name of the retailer, Brand-Chatillon Co. Time is indicated using applied gold Breguet numerals and gold 'cathédrale' style hands, framed by an outer minute ring.

Internally, the watch is powered by a rhodium-plated, 9 1/2''' caliber movement. It contains 17 jewels and a straight-line lever escapement. The assembly includes a cut bimetallic compensation balance, adjusted to three positions, and is fitted with a blued steel Breguet balance spring.

Evidence for this section
  • “Matte silver with applied gold Breguet numerals, outer minute ring. Gold "cathédrale" hands.”
  • “Cal. 9 1/2''', rhodium plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, cut bimetallic compensation balance adjusted to 3 positions, blued steel Breguet balance spring.”

Signatures and Condition

The movement is signed by the manufacturer, Vacheron & Constantin, and the case bears a specific serial number, 5134. The retailer's name, Brand-Chatillon Co., is present on the dial.

The auction description provides a grading assessment for the object, noting the case and movement as 'Good'.

Evidence for this section
  • “Movement signed, case numbered, dial signed by the retailer.”
  • “Movement: 3* Good Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense”

Open research questions

  • What is the exact year of production within the 1920s?
  • Does internal archival documentation specify the original point of sale?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Vacheron & Constantin 'Montre de sac à volets' purse watch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerVacheron & Constantin“Vacheron & Constantin, Genève”
RetailerBrand-Chatillon Co“retailed by Brand-Chatillon Co”
Material14K yellow gold“14K yellow gold purse/desk watch”
Case Number5134“case No. 5134”
Movement Caliber9 1/2'''“Cal. 9 1/2'''”
EscapementStraight line lever“straight line lever escapement”
Dimensions45 x 32 mm“Dim. 45 X 32 mm”
Jewel Count17“17 jewels”

Visible details

  • Retractable side shutters manipulated by thumb bars
  • Applied gold Breguet numeral indices on dial
  • Engine-turned surface texture on the case
  • Reeded pattern along the case edges

Research qualifications

  • The auction description recommends an overhaul for the movement
  • Condition of the dial and case is rated using a grading system with limited detail

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

'Montre de sac à volets' Vacheron & Constantin, Genève, retailed by Brand-Chatillon Co, No. 410828, case No. 5134. Produced in the 1920s. Very fine and rare, rectangular, keyless, 14K yellow gold purse/desk watch.

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record 4c6568a551

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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