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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Perpetual calendar GMT wristwatch

Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Calendar GMT Ref. 320-22

Partially verified

This Ulysse Nardin wristwatch, referenced as 320-22 and numbered 033, was produced in the 1990s. The watch is crafted from 18K white gold and features a three-body, solid, polished case with a transparent back secured by six screws and fluted curved lugs. It houses a self-winding Caliber UN 32 movement, which includes a rotor engraved with a perpetual movement patent number. The dial is finished in a two-tone, satiné silver and white design, incorporating applied white gold baton indexes with luminous dots. Functionally, it offers a perpetual calendar with apertures for the date, day, month, and leap year, alongside a 24-hour graduation for a second time zone. Two olive-shaped push buttons positioned at 4 and 8 o'clock allow for independent adjustment of the hour hand. The watch is finished with luminous blued steel lozenge hands and includes a steel Ulysse Nardin buckle.

Front view of the Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Calendar GMT wristwatch.
Front view of the Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Calendar GMT wristwatch. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Wristwatch · Perpetual calendar GMT wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Ulysse Nardin
Reference
320-22
Catalogue / lot identifier
412
Source-reported date
1990s
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
033

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Features

The timepiece is constructed with a three-body, solid, polished 18K white gold case, measuring 38 mm in diameter and 12.5 mm in thickness. The design includes fluted curved lugs and a transparent case back, which is attached using six screws. For the user's convenience, two olive-shaped push buttons are integrated into the case band at the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, specifically intended for the independent adjustment of the hour hand to facilitate tracking different time zones.

The dial is presented in a two-tone, satiné silver and white configuration. It features applied white gold baton indexes augmented by luminous dots. Time is indicated by luminous blued steel lozenge hands, with a dedicated arrow-tipped hand for the 24-hour second time zone graduation. The perpetual calendar functionality is displayed through dedicated apertures for the day, month, date, and leap year. A guilloche-finished subsidiary seconds dial is located at the 9 o'clock position.

Evidence for this section
  • “Three-body, solid, polished, transparent case back with 6 screws, fluted curved lugs”
  • “olive-shaped push buttons at 4 and 8 to independently adjust the hour hand for different time zones”
  • “Two-tone, satiné silver and white with applied white gold baton indexes and luminous dots”
  • “apertures for the date, the days, the months and leap year, sunk guilloche subsidiary seconds dial at 9”

Movement and Technical Specifications

The watch is powered by the self-winding Caliber UN 32. This movement is rhodium-plated and finished with fausses cotes decoration. Technically, the movement utilizes 34 jewels and is equipped with a straight-line lever escapement. Additional components include a monometallic balance wheel, a shock absorber, and a self-compensating flat balance spring.

A notable feature of the automatic winding system is the rotor, which bears an engraving citing a specific perpetual movement patent, numbered 680 630-2. The movement, along with the dial and case, is signed by the manufacturer.

Evidence for this section
  • “Cal. UN 32, rhodium plated, fausses cotes decoration, 34 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance”
  • “rotor engraved ?perpetual movement patent no 680 630-2?”
  • “Dial, case and movement signed.”

Condition and Attribution

The auction house provides a comprehensive grading of the object's current state. The overall grade assigned is AA, indicating a very good condition. Specifically, the dial is described as being in 'as new' condition, and the hands are noted as original to the timepiece.

The case is described as being in good condition, although it bears slight scratches. The watch is accompanied by a steel Ulysse Nardin buckle. All cataloguing information, including the manufacture in Locle & Genève during the 1990s, is provided by the auction house.

Evidence for this section
  • “Grading System Grade: AA Very good”
  • “Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense”
  • “Dial: 1-01 As new”
  • “Case: 3-8 Good Slightly scratched”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific functionality of the perpetual calendar mechanism integrated into Caliber UN 32?
  • Are there specific service records available for the perpetual calendar module given the recommended overhaul?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Calendar GMT Ref. 320-22
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
ManufacturerUlysse Nardin“Ulysse Nardin, Locle & Gen”
Reference320-22“Ref. 320-22”
Serial Number033“No. 033”
Material18K white gold“18K white gold wristwatch”
MovementCal. UN 32“Cal. UN 32, rhodium plated, fausses cotes decoration, 34 jewels”
Diameter38 mm“Diam. 38 mm.”
Thickness12.5 mm“Thickness 12.5 mm.”
PatentPerpetual movement patent 680 630-2“rotor engraved ?perpetual movement patent no 680 630-2?”

Visible details

  • Olive-shaped push buttons located at 4 and 8 o'clock for time zone adjustment
  • Transparent case back secured with six screws
  • Two-tone satiné silver and white dial with guilloché subsidiary seconds at 9
  • Luminous blued steel lozenge hands

Research qualifications

  • The auction description reports the movement requires an overhaul
  • The auction description notes the case has slight scratches

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.